blind steals « Texas Hold ‘Em Poker Tournament

November 16, 2009

IRC method 12

Filed under: General, IRC Method — Tags: blind steals, raise, tournaments — MikeTheMavrick @ 3:56 pm

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Aside from making these adjustments you also may at different points of the tournaments, or if you just realize a certain stayle works better to come up with certain moves, and determine how often to make them based on the blind structure. Fo rexample, you may do a squeeze play. If you expect an average of a raise and a call along with the small and big blind, you are expected to win 7.5 big blinds. If you normally need 2 steals per rotation, that’s 3 big blinds every rotation (small blind plus big blind is 1.5 twice is 3. Since this move works 7.5 times, it is 5 times more than a regular blind steal. So for every 5 blind steals that you would make, you only need 1 steal. This works out to be .4 squeeze plays per rotation, or once every 2.2 rotations, or maybe one squeeze every 20 hands.

Because these situations will come up more rarely, you will probably not want to define your hand range as much. Unless the table allows for it fairly often, but even then it’s better to vary your strategies. You just need to make sure you are doing it with a good mix of both hands that you can move in with, and hands that are a complete bluff. You could technically do it with the top 5% of hands, but the problem is when you have the top 5% of hands, that situation isn’t going to come up. You actually want to do this on a steal half the time, and with a good hand the other half. So if you have calculated the top 5% of hands (1/20), you should probably just make sure that when you make that move you have the top 2% of hands maybe half the time, and the other half the time you make this move with nothing. Additionally, most of the time you will be doing other moves as well, this move in combination of other moves, mean you should actually not need to steal 1/20. I like to generally double it, so 1/40 or 2.5% of all hands. that means I’ll do it with 1.25% of all hands plus 1.25% of the time I’ll try it with a random hand if I haven’t done it in 20 hands and the situation comes up in the next 20.

You may determine that every rotation someone trys to steal your blind, that half the time you can call to check raise 60% of your stack, or if your stacks are deeper minraise your opponent preflop, then try for the check raise. On a failed checkraise, you can bet the turn. You may even get tables where everyone’s raising and reraising, but everyone is calling reraises, You may wish to try a reresteal every os often, to win 10.5 big blinds or so..

Each one of thse moves wins different amounts and have different risks. You can do a comibination of all of them, and just make sure you are making at least enough from your combination of moves trto keep up with the blind structure without getting careeied away.

Maybe you call in position to delay steal. This is essentially the same as a resteal, except your opponent may continuation bet the flop, or hit the flop, so you will have to determine how to deal with this. You may even consider more complex moves where you call your opponent down, then push on the turn or river, or call with a good hand down. In any case, you should be able to figure out roughly how to keep up with the blinds by determining how much you expect to gain in big blinds, and then determine how often you need to steal based on the blind structure. The bigger moves can be done far less often, but are far greater risks. Different players have different strategies. In a live tournament, it’s much more applicable to let an opponent bluff, and THEN move in on him if he shows weakness throughout the whole hand, if you are good enough at reading your opponent. Thus, live allows for much tighter play, much tighter raises, and the occasional big move, which will be much more effective if you have shown a lot of patience. Then you can break out of your strategy and really start raising, and then shift back into tight play.

Other players may be better at playing post flop. They may be able to win an average of 2 big blinds, every hand they play, as long as they have position. These players can play a lot more hands,provided they can really make the correct decisions after the flop. That doesn’t mean they always SHOULD, but that they can. Some players might go for the small pot preflop steal. If a few players have limped, or even several, this player might make a large steal. If this player has a very good hand, they might also make that play to isolate their opponent and only get a couple callers. Maybe it wins 3 big blinds on average or maybe 4.5 equivilent to 2-3 steals. Generally if you set a plan to play tighter, you can notice the situations and make moves that aren’t exactly according to plan, but the plan allows for the flexibility to make plays without becomming predictable, and without becomming too loose. The more value you can extract without taking on a lot of risk after the flop, the tighter your strategy can be.

Later on in a tournament with the antes in and the steals meaning more than ever, you really need to turn up the steals, and maybe even make a big move… But generally the IRC method is to gradually just find ways to win small pots. All of the blinds and antes and preflop money put into the pot can add up big time.

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irc method 11

Filed under: IRC Method — Tags: blind steals, raise — MikeTheMavrick @ 3:55 pm

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If you are new to the IRC method, you probably need a little guidance on how to adapt to blind structures. To this there’s an idea taught in Phil Gordon’s Little Blue Book.

Basically the idea is that you have 40 big blinds, there is a certain amount of steals per rotation you MUST make in order to still have 40 big blinds later on.

The adjustments we will need to make to the IRC method is after the blinds have gone up a few times and we have gotten an understanding of our table, and have started to deviate to attack certain opponents, we will want to start to turn up the aggression, unless the structure is really slow and we’re keeping up without including the big pots won with big hands.

We don’t neccesarily need to always raise enough to keep up with the number of big blinds, as long as we continue to add chips without risk, we’re doing okay. But at some point we WILL have to get more aggressive. It’s okay that with 150 big blinds that 4 levels into it you only have 100 big blinds, it might not even be a bad idea to wait until you pick up a big hand until you significantly deviate, then after your double up you can play your rush and pyschologically impact your opponents with the sudden gear switch. But you WILL need to stay above 40 big blinds if you want a chance at avoiding an all in for awhile, and that will require that you press on the accelerator and go a little faster.

But regardless, you will need to figure out how often you need to steal to maintain your chip stack in terms of big blinds. Lets say 30 big blinds.

So lets say in an online tournament the blinds go up like this:

Blinds – time level

40/80 12 minutes 2400

5 steals required 2.5 per rotation 1.67 resteals or .833 per rotation

50/100 12 minutes 3000

4 steals required 2 per rotation 1.333 resteals or .66677 per rotation.

60/120 12 minutes 3600

5 required 2.5 per rotation

75/150 12 minutes 4500

1.3 req .6 per rotation

80/160 12 minutes 4800

5 req 2.5 per rotation

100/200 12 minutes 6000

You have to estimate how many hands per hour are seen. Say it’s about 100. That’s 20 hands per blind level. Okay, now if you have 30 big blinds at 40/80 you have 1600., you can figure that you would need 400 chips or 5 blind steals (SB+BB) to get to 30 for the next level. Since you see 20 hands per level, that’s about 2.5 per rotation. On average you’ll need about 2 steals per rotation to maintain your chip stack.

So if that number was actually 2 you would need 2 steals every 10 hands. That means raising once every 5 hands on average. 1 out of every 5 hands represents the top 20% of hands. So anytime you have a hand in the top 20% you need to raise. That’s not exact because you will play hands after the flop, and you may win small pots. And it doesn’t adapt for position. Plus it doesn’t consider reraises. If you are getting reraised, you will be reraising once every 4 hands you raise, or the top 5% of hands on average, while you will win everything back plus the blinds you will have given up 3 rotations where you could win the blinds, so in 4 raises you lose 9 and make back 10.5. Some people rereraise once every 3 hands they raise, that way you would lose 6, and make back 10.5 and you would still average 1.5 big blinds per raised hand. This way you can continue your path to stealing your way to victory without seeing a flop or getting it all in. Or course your opponents will also raise, and not let you in a hand unless you call or reraise.

To this Phil Gordon has similar strategy. Make sure to check this out in his little green book and follow the chart on page 152. Assuming you win the small and big blind plus 3 big blinds on average you essentially get the same amount of chips as 3 steals. So if the blind structure was the same, and you needed .6667 steals per rotation you would need a steal every 15 hands. So you should resteal an average of the top 6.6% of hands.

If you use the raise strategy consistently, the percentages can remain the same, and then switch to the reraise strategy. But if you are using both you can actually raise slightly less often and reraise less often and still maintain your chipstack.

Of course you still need a solution on when to rereraise. if you are raising with the top 6.6% of hands, you must be able to rerereraise once every 3 reraises to maintain the same rate per raise average, or once every 4 reraises to ensure a profit. In other words if you raise 6.67% of the time, you will rerereraise 2.22% of the time to keep up with the blinds. If you just rerereraise on the conservative end to make a profit not maintain your number of big blinds (if so, you must come up with another way to gain chips to maintain your # of BBs) you would rerereraise 1.6667% of the time. If you use this strategy, you are basically determining how good of a hand you need to go all in with preflop by how your raises and reraises, and at what point your reraise or rereraise puts you all in.

The IRC method calls for adjustments, because it either limps and reraises, or raises and flat calls depending on the amount of blinds. It trys to avoid putting the money all in, and it forces opponents to overpush if they want to put you all in. It also adjust raise sizes. It relies on it’s ability to maintain chips without going all in in other ways after the flop when called, and by calling and outplaying people and gaining more chips after the flop. For example, rather than stealing the blinds with a 3 times raise, you might make a 2.5 raise, to try to get a call, knowing you’ll be able to take down after the flop maybe half the time which is the equivilent of a blind steal. Or you will get them to fold MORE than half the time, plus occasionally they will fold preflop, and when they continue after the flop, you will be able to exploit them when you have a monster hand, and they hit a big hand as well. Say you hit a straight and they hit top pair with a weak kicker or maybe a pair with a gutshot draw. They get sick of your betting, and they checkraise you all in. You call and take down a huge pot. You also will be able to find situations where you hit a set against someone and can get a lot of chips by the river. You start out with more big blinds, and it’s okay if you are unable to completely maintain your big blinds as long as you are still gaining chips.

So you might have 60 big blinds at 20/40 levels , and “blind down” to 25 big blinds at the 300/600 levels. You had 2400 in chips, but now you have 15000 in chips. Sure, you could take slightly more risks and be willing to get all of your chips on the line if you should need to, but what would turn out better, getting your money in as a 60% favorite with 2400 and the 60% of the time you survive you end up having 17,400 in chips at the 300/600 levels with the ability to get your money in as a 60% favorite again (36% to get to 34800), or you have a 60% chance to get to 30,000. What if you only needed 30,000 chips to win? You would have a 60% of winning the tournament. Or you could have a 36% chance of winning the tournament but if you lose you still have 4800 in chips. By getting it all in early 40% of the time you pass up the opportunity to go from 2400 to 15000 and that’s even if you DONT keep up with the blinds.

So in terms of all ins, I prefer a tighter strategy than Phil Gordon’s method for most of the time, I prefer to try to play more flops and to do more calling. However, I still like to use Phil Gordon’s method of adapting to the structure as a reference point. I might raise and reraise slightly less often and do more limping and calling. And I prefer to fold 3 times and rereraise on the 4th even though I have to accept less chips if my opponents fold I want to have a hand and let people know I mean business. I might go somewhere between like 1/3.5. I really not only want to have the best hand, but I also want to be in dominant position. Because it’s so rare for me to rereraise, I can also potentially get away with a reresteal at a well timed moment in the tournament. The raising and reraising percentage is an average, and it’s not adjusted for position. You have to make that adjustment yourself. Against passive opponents I’ll raise more often and reraise much less often. Phil Gordon’s strategy is great for maintaining big blinds and then using game theory for pushing, but I believe that gets you all in too much. I believe Phil Gordon doesn’t account for the skill in playing hands in small pots although in real life he certainly understands this concept. However, if you believe that you have skill, and you have proven it in the past, then you should actually not raise, reraise, and rereraise quite as much, but specifically your raise and reraise. Of course, this makes you exploitable, and opponents can reraise you and take advantage of that, but if that happens, you’ll simply need to make adjustments and limp, and call more. Actually, you can raise more and allow your self to be exploited by someone who resteals and simply give up and reresteal less if you ither think you can steal enough blinds to make up for this, or get paid enough when you have a big hand (by getting called) when you rereraise, if you happen to be at the point when you are ready to take an all in or if you hve a hand that’s good enough to get it all in preflop. OR you can raise less often and reraise more often, or you can raise less often and rereraise more often. It depends on the weaknesses to exploit, but usually I won’t have a good idea which one will work until just before I move tables anyway, so I’ll just play with a balanced strategy, just slightly tighter, with the exception of more flat calling raises and I’ll actually occasionally limp in. If you do adjust your strategy, you should probably start with your big all in moves first. Personally I prefer to adjust to how many hands I have left, and what is the best hand I can expect to get, and from there, figure out what all in range of hands I should play. If I have 40 big blinds, my all in is on a rereraise. I’ll make it 3, someone makes it 9 and I’ll move all in. So if I’m all in with the top 3% of hands, that means I can raise with top 9% of hands, and reraise with the top 6% of hands. That’s not to say that I won’t raise more often and look for ways to attack weakness, but my standard raise should be this much.

So If I’m all in for 3% of hands, how do I factor in position to adjust my raising and reraising range?

It’s VERY imporatnt that position plays a role. If out of 9 players, you were to only raise with the best hand, you would raise with the top 1/9 or 11.11% of hands. Now if your all in ratio dictates you should only move all in with 3% Now you can take 9/11.111 to get about .81. This is your multiplier. So with 5 players left, (6 including yourself) normally you would raise with 1/6 or the top 16.67% of hands, but multiply that by .81 and you get 13.5%. Now if you want to break even so you can’t be exploited on resteals and you raise with 13.5, you should rereraise with the top 3.375 (divide by 4) and if you are to make a resteal after someone has acted with 5 players and themselves left (incuding you), reraise with the top 6.75% (divide by 2). The constant adjustments make it extremely difficult, which is why this is only really done online when you have spreadsheets and calculators that you can use.

Overall though, you will find a balance between maintaining your chipstack in terms of big blinds, and avoiding as many all in situations as possible, while in the meantime looking for the players to exploit.

Comments (3)

November 15, 2009

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Filed under: General — Tags: blind steals, poker, raise, texas holdem, tournaments — MikeTheMavrick @ 8:13 am

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Figure out what you’re gaining (not what’s in the pot) for the series of moves based on flop. A high flop, K high flop, Q high flop J high flop KQ flop JT flop t9 flop KJ9 flop Tj9 all suited KQJ AKQ flop, etc.

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^{^{Starting hand}}
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^{^AK}
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^{^A6s}
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^{^QJ}
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^⁶⁶
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^{^AT}
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^{^Q8s}
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^{^K7s}
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^{^KT}
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^⁵⁵
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^{^JT}
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^{^87s}
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^{^QT}
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^⁴⁴
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^²²
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^³³
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Winning defines me; a winner is who I am.
I am a winner. Victory I choose.
===
I am disciplined. I have complete emotional control. Everything That I do makes me money. I am getting rich. I am making money. I am a winning poker player. I play poker to win. I win poker.
I am a poker genius. I am capable of things.
I dominate the game of poker. I am the Michael Jordon of poker. I am the Bobby Fischer of poker.
==
I am the Tiger Woods of poker. I am the Albert Einstein of poker. I am the Thomas Edison of poker. I am 10 times better than any pro out there. I am 9 times better than Phil Helmuth. I am 20 times luckier than Phil Ivey. I am 100 times better than Greg Raymer.
==
I am 85 times better than Mike Matusow. I have won many poker tournaments. I am the best poker player in the world.
I can read players better than any other poker players. I am gifted. I expect amazingly good things to happen to me. Everytime I play poker, I win. I am a poker genius.
=
I believe in my reads, I have faith in my ability and I win poker tournaments. I am a winner. I choose to win. I choose victory. I choose to make every move that it takes to win. I am patient. I can wait for the best situations. I mix up my game.
I won 10,000. I am winning 1000 dollars a day.
=
=7
I have an amazing sense for odds. I have a psychic ability to put my opponent on a hand.
I know exactly what my opponent is thinking and how he plays.
I do what I do, and what I do is win poker championships. I go into the game with a clear plan, a clear direction for victory.
=7
-8
I keep my mind focused and consistently play well.
I am getting better every day. I have a persistent and consistent drive to get better.
I maintain a state of mind that is constantly focused on the situation at hand, and where I want to be in the future.
I maintain a winning attitude.
-8
9
I add value to others lives, and for exchange, I receive cash chips and winnings.
Before I play I manifest a winning game.
I combine my long term goals of winning the WSOP with my short term focus of being in the moment and making the correct decision.
I am patient. I have patience.
9
Pre poker tournament subliminal
I have a huge chipstack, my chipstack gets bigger as time moves on. I make all the right moves at all the right times. I learn all the information I need.
I have the discipline to fold, and the discipline to make the best overall decision for this moment in time. I have the instincts and the guts to make the moves that I need to make.
People love to give me their chips.
I love making corrects moves and letting my play teach them valuable lessons that will make them better poker players in the future.
I have the endurance to keep on playing smart.
I always make the right move. If I find myself caught against a worse hand, I catch the cards I need to win.
I get my opponents to fold the better hand without taking on significant risk
I learn the lessons I need to learn.
Poker Final Table
I consistently and persistently gain all of the chips at the table.
I am a poker millionaire
I am Visioneering a winning game plan
I get myself into an alpha state of mind, I think of a time I have won and feel how it felt. I think of what it would be like to win and I feel what it would feel like to win. I imagine myself winning, and I experience the emotions of winning.
Visioneering a winning gameplan-
Some people charge $500 for seminars when they teach this stuff. But this is a technique known as visioneering, creative visualization, flowing, and many other names.
When you experience an event a specific emotion occurs. But you can flip that around, and think of an emotion that you want to feel, and a corresponding event will manifest itself into your life.
This is a little advanced stuff so I won’t dive too deep into the details, however Quantum physicists have proven that if we focus on something, we will see more of that which we focus on. If you want more of the details, you can check out (flowdreaming.com, the law of attraction, whatisthesecret.tv, etc)
If you ever think of getting a certain type of new car, you will find that you notice that car more often. There’s some arguments as to whether you’re actually getting yourself into more situations where you’ll see that car more, or you’re just noticing it more, but the fact is, you’re attention is on it, so you’re attention will see more of it, and will be able to distinguish them from “just another car”.
Wouldn’t you like to be focused on more situations that help you towards winning big money in poker tournaments? Perhaps all of those situations were still there, but you may not have either not noticed them or perhaps you were unable to distinguish the winning moves from the losing ones.
You can get yourself focused on winning a number of ways. You can read information on winning poker strategies like the ones in (my ebook) so your mind is on winning. You can think of the times that you were successful playing poker and think of the things you were doing then. You can also listen to the “subliminal poker genius”, and try some power affirmations. You can watch some WSOP tapes and focus on everything the players did to find out where they were at, to conserve chips, to get more out of pots they were ahead in, to get information on opponents, etc… Either way, this technique should allow the winning strategies to be clearer, and keep you more focused.
First you’ll want to get your brain into what is known as an “alpha state”. This just means that you’re in a relaxed and tranquil state of mind, yet you’re still consciously awake. In order to do this the fastest way, simply close your eyes and roll them back just a little bit. Not towards the back of your head but merely the top of the forehead. Now notice your breathing you should breath in for 4 seconds, hold for 2 seconds and let your breath out for 8 seconds. Repeat this a couple times. Within a minute you will be in an alpha state.
Now all you need to do is think of a time where you were feeling like what you want to feel right now. If you want to win something you want to think of a time where you won something or experienced those winning feelings. Now all you need to do is think of the thing that you want occurring and what that will be like, and then start to imagine what that will feel like and how you will feel when it happens. Then play that event out in your mind as if it has already happened. Then feel the feeling of love and gratitude to cement this event and start the manifestation. Then say to yourself “so be it, it is done!” And there you are.
If you have troubles imagining it and believing that it already happened, just understand that it HAS happened in your mind, which is just like a smaller scale of the real world. Everything must happen on a subatomic level before it happens under a larger scale. It’s just like you created the blueprints of it, now you just have to wait until the builders build it.
You may have to take conscious action yourself to achieve this. You can’t just think of winning a tournament and win it, you’re going to have to buy in for the event. But you may just manifest the buy in somehow. But you can’t manifest a victory, you still need conscious preparation.
bigtimedonkeys.com
Ok. I’m coming up with a quiz that’s designed to get you to start thinking like a power player… Try not to look ahead!
1) With an average stack in mid position with tight players in the blinds you get J8

Do you…

A raise

B call

C fold

D raise all in and rip your shirt off and slam it on the table and jump up and down like a monkey
2) You’ve raised the last 5 out of 6 hands and taken down the blinds every time. You have 25 times the big blind, you get pocket JJs in mid-early position so you raise 4X the big blind from early position. An opponent with 30 times the big blinds makes a reraise to 14 times the big blind. Everyone else folds to you. You remember that the opponent said something to you about raising all the time, and you took the same players blinds the past 2 rounds. What is your move?

A Call

B All in

C Fold

D Read your opponent
3) You make a small raise in mid position with J8, the big blind (traditionally a tight player who you’ve been robbing blind all day) calls

The flop is AT7 your opponent checks. Do you A) Bet B) Check behind C) Fold… just for fun D) Put on Greg Raymer’s Holographic Glasses; Scream “DAAAAAA!!” at the top of your lungs, then when everyone looks at you tell them the kiddie game is “down the street” and point at Mike “the mouth” Matusow’s ear.
4) You’ve bet from the button with KQ and after Frank the Tank reraises you suspect he is playing back at you. Do you

A) Slap him for being known as Frank the Tank

B) Slap his momma for naming him Frank

C) Reraise over the top

D) Call

E) Fold

F) Fart in your opponents face and tell him he’s not the only one full of hot air… THEN fold.
5) You’ve been picking on a tight players blind from the cutoff and you think he might be catching on. You pick up T7 of diamonds

Do you A) Bet anyways B) Fold C)phone a friend D)Ask the audience E)Call
6) In a major holdem event someone from another table gave Mike “the Mouth” Matusow who was all in and standing up at the time a downer in a sidebet/dare. Mike pulled up his pants saying “are you crazy?! You think anyone wants to see my ass?” But for a brief moment his pants were in fact down. He was wearing what type of underwear?

A)”Tightie Whitie” underwear

B)”I heart Daniel Negreanu” underwear

C)Goin commando which he later said was his “good luck charm” — aka “nothing there but hair” underwear

D) The “Nothing, the guy removed his pants and” underwear.

E)”Don’t know, but Daniel Negreanu’s Power Holdem Strategy notes were scribbled on his” underwear

F)Who the F cares? And yes, I just answered a question with another question… underwear

G)”The kind that’s Under There… but wait, what?” Under where?

H)”Official WSOP underwear equipped with the official ‘pocket… wait that’s not a pocket it’s a fly’ cam on the” underwear

I)Boxers
7) You’ve been playing heads up for hours and you think you know your opponent pretty well. The tendencies that you’ve caught are he seems to raise preflop with any face cards and any pair. He also bets out on the flop when he has extreme strength. He limps and you raise with QJ and he calls. You flop T96 with an open-ended straight flush draw. He knows that you represent every flop for the most part but you check behind. After a 2 on the turn he bets and looks to the left and scratches his nose. You think he’s trying to take it down and with 15 outs, you still have a good chance of catching, plus your Queen and Jack could easily both be live giving you potentially 19 outs so you raise and he calls. The river is another 2, you notice your opponent wipe his palms and swallow hard. Your opponent bets the pot which is just less than 1/10th of your chips, but you got caught earlier on his “fake tell”. What do you do?
Answers on next blog
Answers

OK so don’t look at the answers unless you’ve taken the quiz or if you don’t plan on taking it. Stay tuned for the next post, where I’ll explain the answers. That way you can see the reasoning behind the answers.
But they are in this order
1)A, 2)D and then C, 3)A unless you know more info then it may be B 4)E 5)A 6)F 7)5 page essay, use 3 resources to support your answer…
1) Raise. This is the essance of Daniel Negreanu’s Power Holdem Strategy. This is a great hand to raise because the only thing you’re in trouble with is AJ or JJ or higher. KJ or QJ is a possibility but even if they did call with one of those hands we still have a good chance to represent the flop. A reraise represents JJ or higher and we can safely get away from it without stressing. If calling sounds like a good move to you, you really need to rethink your strategy and start learning about power poker. And if ripping your shirt off and calling all in does sound tempting, you should probably be playing wrestling machoman… and girls… stripping is always an option if you’re hot… so send me pics and I’ll let you know if you have potential
. A fold is not a terrible play, but you’re really missing out on A the ability to win now B the ability to win on the flop C the ability to establish an image that will win you more later, and D the ability to get away from the hand easily if reraised.

2) Read your opponent! Not reading your opponent is what seperates the internet donks from the pros. Even if your move is the same regardless of your read, your opponent might just show, or you might pick up on something later. It could mean the difference between calling off a bluff later, or giving up a big pot to a bluff. Just make sure you just take a quick second, maybe even say something to see how your opponent responds then make your decision. Hesitation might give away that you have a good hand and if you make a big deal about it before you fold, people might suddenly start playing back at you like crazy, and you won’t pick up on it to later. Just don’t talk yourself into or out of it based on the read. Ok, so that was kind of a trick question. But after taking a quick moment, you should have your decision.

After you’re read you already know this is clearly a fold or all in situation. The only time a call is acceptable either if you are 100% sure he has total crap and you think he’ll go all in if you check to him after the flop. OR if you call with the intention of moving all in on the flop (This move is known as a “Stop and Go”) , either case you’ll be calling with the intention of going all in.

If you’re up against AK you don’t have to see all 5 cards and you might live to see another day. If you’re up against QQ and the flop comes AK2 you should get them to fold.

However the best move is to just fold. The rule of thumb is if you’re not folding away some hands that you think are the best, you’re generally not folding enough, and if you’re not getting played back, you’re generally not raising enough.
If you’re playing power poker, and you’re chopping up the table 5/6 times, you simply can wait for MUCH better situations. Folding Queens is also acceptable in this situation.

Sure he might be “playing back” at you, but what if he’s not? Heck even if he is, if he has KQ or AK or AQ it’s still only a coinflip, and if he has QQ KK or AA you’re done for. If you fold you have plenty of chips to work with and can go from there. Poker is not a race, it’s a decathlon. Be willing to give up the lead or surrender a few “races” to leave you with enough endurance(aka chips) so you can build up your energy and stamina(chip stack) to finish strong.
3) This is a fairly tough one. The fact that a traditionally tight player called worries me a little bit here. I’m starting to wonder if maybe he has a high pair. And because I’ve got an inside straight draw I’m hesitant to bet when I might be getting reraised. But then again my opponent could have high face cards or a small pair and was hoping to catch. I think that you should bet here unless you know something here… If you know him to be a complete rock and aggressive, or if you know him to be a tight player that occasionally makes a play on someone, and/or is a player that defends his blinds then I would check behind. Maybe I hit and then he bets into me… However if all I know is the player is a tight player, then he still has to have a very good hand to be able to do anything here unless he’s making a play on you. He’s out of position and he just showed/represented weakness. Take advantage and make the bet here… If you get played back at let it go. If you see the guy continue to defend his blinds go after someone else for a while. I like to make my opponent make a play on me 2 or 3 times until I change my mind. That way you’ve done it enough after he’s played back at you to indicate that you just like to raise a lot and you think he’s weak. Well the next time he takes it personal, it’s payday for you. That’s why I always recommend trying to pick on the same players over and over again. If they plays back at you once, assume that person just got a hand. If they play back at you again, assume that they just wanted to make a stand once to show that they won’t be bullied, but assume they don’t have it in them to make the move again. And even say something to them like, you can’t play back at me every time, one of these times I’m gonna have a hand. Now if that player does it a third time, you know that they switched gears completely and that they’re probably not going back to the tight player. Don’t get frusterated, give yourself a pat on the back because you’ve made that player play a style different then what he/she is used to.
4)A and B might be tempting, but are bad etiquette. E might be funny, but it’s not worth getting banned from the casino. C is bad poker because you’ve just committed wayyy too much of your stack with a hand that could be dominated on a premonition that they “might” be making a move (hint, lighten up and don’t take things so personal… let go of your ego). D is Dangerous because you’re calling a reraise with a hand that not only has to hit for it to be good, but even if you hit top pair, you don’t know if it’s good or not. With poker being a game of information, KQ is not a hand that’s going to give you enough strength to play a reraise, and even if you do hit, you’re not going to have the information to continue.

5)A Bet anyways- Thinking that he “might” be catching on is no reason not to raise especially if he’s a tight player. You already have a decent hand by a power player’s standards, and you have position on him. Further more, you have a chance to enhance your image. Even if he DOES play back at you and you fold, other players are going to take note, and will be much more likely to play back at you. The thing is, if you have someone who you can rob blind all day, you can afford to enter a few less pots against aggressive players looking to make a move… Then when you pick up aces, people are just going to think “well he folded everytime he was reraised…” Then they reraise you and you hit them right back and they say “well this guy’s been in every hand, I’m already involved, I’ll just see a flop with my AJ. Now when you hit your set of aces it’s payday. You owe it to yourself to at least pick up some chips, and if that payday doesn’t come you won’t get blinded to death like the other halfwits out there.
6) The ONLY right answer form this question is who the F cares, if you are a guy and your answer is different… seek mental help. If you are a girl and your answer is different … seek mental help as well. If that still doesn’t work get your eyes checked, and if you’re answer is still different then F repeat. Norman Chad said “I took Mike for more of a Tightie Whitie guy”, but that was right before not only my gaydar went off, but then my “SHEIT SHIET THEYRE SHOOTING and Austrails like WTF? alarm” went off as well.
7) It’s definitely a steep price to pay, and no one would argue with a fold here, but I think it’s worth the call. At the very least take your time and draw it out and make him sweat while you look for tells. Personally I would put him on a pocket pair and think that he hit his set, but you thought that he raised with every pocket pair. He played his hand like a monster or nothing at all. Either way you know your Q high can’t be good, but on this hand it could be very valuable to find out that he limps with lower pocket pair out of position then he slow plays a set and mixes it up more than you gave him credit for, or maybe he had aces and then you know that he might slow play his monsters preflop, but isn’t willing to give it up to a reraise. Or maybe he had nothing, he saw that you checked and took it as weakness, so he tried to take advantage. When you raised maybe he correctly guessed you were on a draw
Regardless the call will probably not only give you a lot of information, but it should make your opponent make more “value bets”, and shy away from betting unless he thinks he has the best hand. Which means he’ll be easier to read.
It’s a steep price heads up, but if it’s been going back and forth for hours and you don’t think you have an edge, you should try to get an edge somehow, whether that’s to fold now and watch for that kind of thing later at a cheaper price, or to just grind away and wait for him to guess wrong or call for information, or to change up your style, or to call him for information here, at some point you have to do something that you think is going to give you an edge in the long run. It’s your call…
Hardly anyone that is successful in anything got that way without help. Everyone models themselves after someone they admire in someway. But whether it was intentional or not, the successful people modeled themselves after successful people, or at least those with some successful habits. Sure they may add or develop a few of their own, but for the most part they have created from other peoples habits, their own model of how to be successful. If you want to be successful, it is imperative that you find someone who has already been successful, and model your behavior after someone who is. And although you can take anyone who’s ever been successful in anything and apply a few of the things they do to what it is you want to be successful in, it is often more relevant and more efficient to just find an expert in the field you want to be successful in and model yourselves after them. The trick is to be as specific as you can. If you want to be a professional Texas Holdem No Limit Tournament player, rather than modify yourself after some random Omaha or 7-card stud player that plays cash games, try to find someone that is successful in no limit holdem tournaments. Sure, you may find that they have also learned to play other games, and you may learn that playing these other games enhances your ability to play no limit holdem. But regardless the point is the same. If you want to win lots of limit tournaments, then find some of the best limit players in the world and do everything that they do. But rather then just follow their style around and do what they say they do on the poker table, you can really gain an advantage by learning to walk act move and talk like they do… To act as if you are already a successful no limit holdem pro. Because if you do that, your mind will begin to process information the same way they do, and soon you will begin to think the same way they do. This will dramatically speed up the time in which you learn how to win like they do. This is why it is important to get Daniel Negreanus power holdem strategy. Daniel Negreanu has gotten together several of the best poker players in the world in each holdem game, cash, or tournaments, limit, no limit, you name it, to make possibly the greatest poker book ever created. Sure if you want a course in power poker there’s always the classic Doyle Brunson’s super system. However things that happened back then are not the same as the things that happen now. People have learned how to play holdem better and better, and they all learn different strategies. They have gotten less and less patient, and more and more aware of steals and bluffs, and resteals and semibluffs. You have to be a little more careful depending on who you play. The game has changed, and if you want to learn how to win now, as quick as possible, I recommend that you get Daniel Negreanu’s Power Holdem Strategy. When you read it, pay attention to the patterns in which they use to write, and you will really start to tap into their mind and suprizingly, you’ll actually start to get a sense for the way that they think. There’s almost a sort of scientific approach that they take to the game. They’re always sizing up opponents, always studying them, always looking at things logically, psychologically, and economically. Always analyzing their play as well as opponents tendencies, betting patterns, tells, odds, you name it. But they have actually learned to do this in such a way that they do it in almost an automatic fashion. It’s just a process to them. It’s as if all the data they ever need to know (minus a calculations that they might make) is already programmed deep into their subconscious. They learn to almost automatically access the pot odds, figure out the chance that someone’s bluffing, and weigh the current risk and opportunity as well as consider future risks and opportunities. And you may not know it, but virtually every human has the potential to do this successfully. Every human being has the potential to be pro poker player, to make thousands of dollars every day, but very few will put their mind to it to do something as simple as learning what it takes to win… so by now, I just want you to ask yourself… How bad do you want it? Do you want it bad enough to pay under $30 to buy a book that could make you thousands? Do you want it bad enough to put a safe amount of money by you at the table that you can afford to play with; gradually working your way up from rags to riches? Do you want to have a lot of fun while you do it? Well then, that means that now it’s time to make a choice. Either you can choose to not buy Daniel Negreanus power holdem strategy, and not even look at another word until the next time you enter a poker tournament. And then when that day comes you’ll look back and regret everything and wonder what could’ve been. But if you want to use your brain for a change, (and not just any change, but a very positive change), you’ll realize that you can make a wonderful choice to invest in not only Daniel Negreanus power holdem strategy, but you. Because you see, when you buy Daniel Negreanus power holdem strategy, you’re not only investing in a great poker book, but you’re also investing in yourself. To enjoy your life and earn some money while you’re at it, and then you can find out just how good of a poker player you can be.
By now, you’ve tried enough strategy and ideas that were either old books that worked great 20 years ago when they made the book, or other books that just basically copied some of the same ideas in their own words. Well by golly, after trying all that stuff, you’ve tried too much to not try a different book. One that will help you win. One that’s by the great pros like Daniel Negreanus, made for anyone interesting in learning Daniel Negreanus power holdem strategy so that they can play like a pro, and win like a pro. So buy Daniel Negreanu’s book… why, you owe it to yourself to at least try Daniel Negreanu’s Power Holdem Strategy.
–
(first part can be starter for other articles)

Most of these moves a
Desirable image=loose or tight
Plays that you can make and amount of big blinds you need to do it with.
Amount of big blinds
L 0-8 wait to call all in with best pot odds. Or get heads up against big blind and do a minraise with all in regardless of flop. Expect your all in to get called
T 8-13.5 all in with suited connectors, any pair, suited one-gap connectors
T 12-18 all in resteal with any non dominated hand with straight possibilities 96 85 74
15-20- bet from small or big blind and move in on flop.
T 15-22 All in over a raise and a call (if you can isolate)
(T) or LT 20-36 (isolation) reraise for a resteal then if failed, move all in on flop. Or in late position reraise enough to get a 5th – 7th of chips in pot and read opponent and the flop. (use sparingly)
L 35-45 limp with potential big hands, or bully a few blinds if table allows, otherwise super tight times 2.
43-50 – this area you really can’t go wrong before the flop (unless you’re calling reraises or moving all in). You’re just outside of the area where you have so many chips you just need to sit on them and wait, but you have more than the range where you’re looking for a big pot to get you into that range. Generally try to make a few steals here to creep into the “safe zone” and if it fails be prepared to fold. This is a good chipstack to fool a little around with because if you steal your range into the safe zone you have a fairly loose image so if you pick up a hand after making a bunch of steals they’ll think you’re trying to bully and you’ll get paid off. However at this point if the blinds are going up soon or if the table is loose you generally just want to sit and wait for a hand so you can pick up a hand before you get into the tough 20-36 range that requires the most skill.
L 50+ tighten up like CRAZY, premium hands only, late position limps with pairs
120+ – you are free to bully and play around in a few pots.
Generally with every limp in subtract 1-2 from your big blind requirements to make each move. Use common sense and generally avoid making these moves with people who haven’t played a hand and suddenly limp in under the gun. Also, as tournament moves on and everyone is fairly short stacked, you should be much less inclined to make a move, and more likely to sit back and wait and fold good hands, especially in the 25-30 range.
You should also be noting the amount of chips your opponents have. Obviously if they only have 8 times the big blind and they raise 3 times the big blind (5 remaining in front of them), you’re probably not going to get them to fold regardless of how you play your hand.
With 20-36 times the big blind, the reraise to the all in requires knowledge. Obviously with tables that seem to hardly be raising at all you don’t want to mess with a reraise. Knowing if your opponent will fold ace king if he misses on flop, knowing what hands your opponent will play, but generally can be done by paying attention to how often they play a hand. You want someone that will either call or fold the reraise. Avoid the people that will go all in or fold, unless they’re tight enough where they’ll fold hands like TT, 99, AQ, AK… and they’ll raise with a fairly wide variety of hands… The idea here is that you’ll get enough resteals and if they move all in on you it’s an easy fold. Most the time if the table is unknown I’ll avoid this. As I gain more info on my opponents I’ll open up and make this move with AK, AQ, AJ,JJ, TT, 99 and 88 but I’ll only bet about a 5th of my stack, or theirs (whichever is lower). This way I can check fold my small pairs (or ace high non pair) with flops like KQ7 AK2, QJT all suited, AJ9 two suites, etc. A72 is a tough flop and KJ2 or QJ8 is a tough flop that really might just make me go by feel. Flops like K72 or Q72 are pretty safe flops, but not safe enough. If I gain information, if blinds are going up soon, or if it’s a tourney that only the top spots place, then I’ll be much more aggressive and start to make my moves with any pair, and any suited connectors.
It’s great when you hold 78suited and the flop comes 865 and you get called with pocket jacks or something and then you hit an 8, 7, 9, or 4 on the river.
Also, if I’m more inclined to go for the win/top places, I’ll actually try to bait them into calling all in on the turn when I hold a small pair I’ll do this by betting only about a quarter of the pot on the flop and then going all in on the turn.
If the table is super tight you can make these moves with less blinds then the recommended amount, if they’re super loose you either don’t make the moves at all or you make them with more chips.
If there is ante you should generally make a slight adjustment as if you had less chips.
Generally your goal should be to have enough chips to sit back and rest without risking as much. In order to get to this point you may have to make strong moves. Optimally you want to be chip leader when it gets down to the final 2 (or at end of 3) tables. From there you sit back and wait and let people knock each other out while you wait for the HUGE edges and at this point you can usually just flat call and trap opponents. If no one knocks each other out after several hands, or if only a few do, or if they don’t seem to be adjusting to short handed play, you can start to make a steal or two and use your tight image to your benefit.
Final table play you can generally use sit and go strategies where you sit back and wait if you’re about average in chips or better, start to make well timed steals with 5-6 people left… Steal like crazy with 4 people left, and start to go into ‘maniac mode’ with 3 people left…
Of course this may vary as you generally like to loosen up and get aggressive as the blinds get up there, but
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Chart2
1 player
AA KK QQ JJ TT 99 88 AKs 77 AQs Ajs AK Ats AQ AJ KQs 66
A9s AT KJs A8s KTs KQ A7s A9 KJ QJs 55) A8 K9s A6s KT A5s QTs
A7 A4s K8s QJ A3-K9 A6 57.8 ||K7s (57.8) A5(57.7 JTS (57.5)QT(57.4)
3players
AA KK QQ JJ TT AKS 99 Aqs AK Ajs KQs 88 Ats AQ KJs KTs QJs AJ KQ QTs A9s 77 AT JTs KJ A8s K9s QJ A7s KT Q9s A5s 66 A6s QT J9s (31.3 t9s(31 K8s(30.8)
5 players
AA KK QQ JJ AKS TT Aqs KQs Ak AJS KJs Ats 99 QJs AQ KTs QTs KQ JTs AJ A9s 88 KJ A8s K9s AT QJ t9s Q9s A7s J9s KT A5s 77 (21.9) A6s (21.7) QT(21.6) JT(21.5) K8s(21.3) A3s(21) K7s(20.8)
7 players
AA KK QQ AKS JJs Aqs KQs Ajs TT AK KJs Ats QTs JTs AQ 99 KQ A9s AJ k9s A8s T9s 88 Q9s J9s
9 players
AA KK QQ AKS Aqs JJ KQs Ajs KJs Ats AK TT QJs KTs QTs JTs 99 AQ A9s KQ T9s A8s K9s J9s A5s Q9s 88 AJ A7s A4s A6s A3s KJ QJ 77 T8s K8s AT A2s 98s || K7s Q8s J8s KT JT 66 QT
In order for this cheat sheet to work, you must play very tight to begin with. You may make an occasional move to accumulate a whole lot of chips early, but for the most part you should keep the pot small. You have to survive the early on all in fest, and the donkeys calling everything until they’re dead first. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend using this early, because you shouldn’t be short stacked early, and if you get a hand, you’ll usually be able to get called so you can afford to wait.
Desirable image=loose or tight
Plays that you can make and amount of big blinds you need to do it with.
Amount of big blinds
L 0-8 wait to call all in with best pot odds. Or get heads up against big blind and do a minraise with all in regardless of flop. Expect your all in to get called. You’re hopping for a lot of calls and then a raise and a reraise all in. You want to get a lot in the pot, but headsup
T 8-13.5 all in with suited connectors, any pair, suited one-gap connectors
T 12-18 all in resteal with any non dominated hand with straight possibilities 96 85 74
15-20- bet from small or big blind and move in on flop.
T 15-22 All in over a raise and a call (if you can isolate)
(T) or LT 20-36 (isolation) reraise for a resteal then if failed, move all in on flop. Or in late position reraise enough to get a 5th – 7th of chips in pot and read opponent and the flop. (use sparingly). Resteal a raise and a call from BB and then move in on the right flop.
L 35-45 limp with potential big hands, or bully a few blinds if table allows, otherwise super tight times 2.
43-50 – this area you really can’t go wrong before the flop (unless you’re calling reraises or moving all in). You’re just outside of the area where you have so many chips you just need to sit on them and wait, but you have more than the range where you’re looking for a big pot to get you into that range. Generally try to make a few steals here to creep into the “safe zone” and if it fails be prepared to fold. This is a good chipstack to fool a little around with because if you steal your range into the safe zone you have a fairly loose image so if you pick up a hand after making a bunch of steals they’ll think you’re trying to bully and you’ll get paid off. However at this point if the blinds are going up soon or if the table is loose you generally just want to sit and wait for a hand so you can pick up a hand before you get into the tough 20-36 range that requires the most skill.
L 50+ tighten up like CRAZY, premium hands only, late position limps with pairs
120+ – you are free to bully and play around in a few pots… You are free to sit back and wait for a hand.
Bubble play: If you seek to win, you usually need to be very aggressive on the bubble. You should be willing to put it all in with any two cards if the situation is right. Of course this changes slightly on the table. If there’s someone else going all in that acts before you, you MUST fold. If there’s a maniac who raises significantly you may want to wait till you get a hand and let him bluff you and let him bluff you again and then put it all in on the turn or river. I’ve done this and had a guy so pot committed he called me with ace high on the river. You can also call this guy and either push it all in on the flop,

Playing with ante: This cheatsheet is designed for use without ante. However you can convert it fairly simply. What you want to do is calculate what’s known as the “M”. This is the big blind plus the small blind plus any ante. Since this is designed for no ante, the M is simply however many big blinds*1.5. That’ll give you how much “M” you need for the range. Now you do this for all the ranges, and you have converted it to allow you to use with ante as well. There are slight changes though when ante is involved and it’s a little more tricky. With ante, it’s more valuable to steal, however, any pot you win is also more valuable. Other players usually know this and adapt accordingly. If allowed, I would try to be a little more aggressive, and steal a little more, and play a little more hands. But this isn’t really necessary, it just gives you a little bit more of an edge if you can adapt based on the table. Since this cheatsheet is mostly just a guideline and meant for those who can’t play optimally under current conditions (either due to lack of experience, or fatigue), it really wouldn’t need to be further adjusted. Sometime when you ARE feeling optimal and clearheaded, you may want to review the blind structures of the tournaments you play as well. The faster the blinds move up, and if it accelerates or moves up at a certain spot; the earlier you’re going to want to make moves. You should ALWAYS if possible start making moves before everyone else, and before it appears you are “desperate”. That’s how I get away with stealing my way up to the chip leader and taking down many uncontested pots. Surprisingly I hardly have ran into many hands when I play like this. Maybe they’re laying down the better hand. Some of it has to do with the fact that since I’m only looking for those really profitable situations, I don’t often play very many hands and have a tight image. They really have to put me on a big hand because I usually have it, or at least they never see me lose a pot and they see me with a big chip stack or at least one that can damage them folding a lot. Most of the loose players get knocked out by the time I make a move and the way I play represents serious strength and puts them at serious risk. They either have to make a bold call, hit the perfect flop, or have a very strong starting hand. I’m sure there’s been times when I reraise and they call and the flop comes K26 and they have JJ TT 99 88 or 77 or AK and cant call. I’m sure there’s been times when they call preflop simply because there’s so much dead money in the pot and they don’t hit. Either way I’m taking it down with hands like 35 89 69 that clearly aren’t the favorite and I’m winning huge pots with them in a manner that gives me positive expected value. Depending on my chipstack
Generally with every limp in subtract 1-2 from your big blind requirements to make each move. Use common sense and generally avoid making these moves with people who haven’t played a hand and suddenly limp in under the gun. Also, as tournament moves on and everyone is fairly short stacked, you should be much less inclined to make a move, and more likely to sit back and wait and fold good hands, especially in the 25-30 range.
You should also be noting the amount of chips your opponents have. Obviously if they only have 8 times the big blind and they raise 3 times the big blind (5 remaining in front of them), you’re probably not going to get them to fold regardless of how you play your hand.
With 20-36 times the big blind, the reraise to the all in requires knowledge. Obviously with tables that seem to hardly be raising at all you don’t want to mess with a reraise. Knowing if your opponent will fold ace king if he misses on flop, knowing what hands your opponent will play, but generally can be done by paying attention to how often they play a hand. You want someone that will either call or fold the reraise. Avoid the people that will go all in or fold, unless they’re tight enough where they’ll fold hands like TT, 99, AQ, AK… and they’ll raise with a fairly wide variety of hands… The idea here is that you’ll get enough resteals and if they move all in on you it’s an easy fold. Most the time if the table is unknown I’ll avoid this. As I gain more info on my opponents I’ll open up and make this move with AK, AQ, AJ,JJ, TT, 99 and 88 but I’ll only bet about a 5th of my stack, or theirs (whichever is lower). This way I can check fold my small pairs (or ace high non pair) with flops like KQ7 AK2, QJT all suited, AJ9 two suites, etc. A72 is a tough flop and KJ2 or QJ8 is a tough flop that really might just make me go by feel. Flops like K72 or Q72 are pretty safe flops, but not safe enough. If I gain information, if blinds are going up soon, or if it’s a tourney that only the top spots place, then I’ll be much more aggressive and start to make my moves with any pair, and any suited connectors.
It’s great when you hold 78suited and the flop comes 865 and you get called with pocket jacks or something and then you hit an 8, 7, 9, or 4 on the river.
Also, if I’m more inclined to go for the win/top places, I’ll actually try to bait them into calling all in on the turn when I hold a small pair I’ll do this by betting only about a quarter of the pot on the flop and then going all in on the turn.
If the table is super tight you can make these moves with less blinds then the recommended amount, if they’re super loose you either don’t make the moves at all or you make them with more chips.
If there is ante you should generally make a slight adjustment as if you had less chips.
Generally your goal should be to have enough chips to sit back and rest without risking as much. In order to get to this point you may have to make strong moves. Optimally you want to be chip leader when it gets down to the final 2 (or at end of 3) tables. From there you sit back and wait and let people knock each other out while you wait for the HUGE edges and at this point you can usually just flat call and trap opponents. If no one knocks each other out after several hands, or if only a few do, or if they don’t seem to be adjusting to short handed play, you can start to make a steal or two and use your tight image to your benefit.

Final table play you can generally use sit and go strategies where you sit back and wait if you’re about average in chips or better, start to make well timed steals with 5-6 people left… Steal like crazy with 4 people left, and start to go into ‘maniac mode’ with 3 people left…
Of course this may vary as you generally like to loosen up and get aggressive as the blinds get up there, but
Consider the following
Harrington’s Zone System in Sit and Goes
Dan Harrington first proposed the Zone System in his second book. This book was titled, “Harrington on Hold’em, Volume 2: The Endgame.” What this system does is it categorizes every situation in a tournament into five separate sections. The sections, or “zones”, are determined by your stack compared to the blinds and antes. The resultant is labeled “M”. So, for example, if you have 900 chips and the blinds are 15/30 with no antes, you’d have a M of 20. (15+30=45, 900/45=20) Here’s the five categories, and how you should play in each of them…

M of 20 or more (BB of 30+) My system pretty much agrees with this, however I think there are still some different stages where certain styles of plays are better, and certain moves are unnecessary. For example, you don’t want to Resteal all in when you have 1000X the big blind. I still think that between 30 and 36 times the big blind (as well as 20-30) you should be making a resteal from the big blind especially after a raise and a call. If called you can move in if the flop is say Q73.
This entire range would be an “M” of 13.3 to 24. Above that point this is unnecessary. This range should change based on the blind structure. If it goes up more rapidly the green zone shrinks, Also, if you are towards the end of the current blinds and they are going up soon, you should consider the future M (after the blinds go up).

DAN SAYS:
M of 10-20 (BB of 15-30)- My system gives you various options here, all of which are pretty aggressive. One of the reason’s I’m aggressive because playing to win is much more beneficial $ wize, and I consider that most people don’t have the table image and presence that Dan has, and most people aren’t as good as he is. I agree that you should avoid calling the hands he says, however, I think these hands are perfect for making moves if the conditions are right. You should in most situations make a move if there’s no raise. But if you’re not going to make an aggressive all out move at this stage with them, you should fold them. But since you will probably not be dominated and as you’re getting more desperate, you simply can’t pass up these small edges. Using them the way I say makes them a larger edge. Also consider that Dan generally plays with antes where the play is somewhat looser as the steals are more profitable, and the pot odds to call are better for opponents. In any part of the yellow zone, an all in after a raise and a call if the conditions are right and you are confident that you can either isolate heads up or only get called by one player you should push unless the table dictates that there are more profitable moves. After several limpers, a raise from the big or small blind followed by a move in on the flop is advised. You should generally raise around 3 times the big blind + the amount of limpers. If 5 limpers, 8 times the big blind. However, you want to put in anywhere from a third to an 8th of your chips. If this method dictates a smaller raise, there’s less gain, so you’ll probably want a mid pair or better, but you should also commit less, like a 5th to an 8th of your chips. This allows you to consider the flop before pushing. Low cards on the flop you can push, but consider your opponent may have an overpair that may or may not be better than yours. One face card you can push, even if it is all the same suit but avoid J98 all suited or something with straight possibilities. If you only put a 7th or 8th of your chipstack in the pot preflop and sometimes a 6th, you should avoid betting all in with an ace on the flop. An opponent who is tight on the flop you can make a small bet if you think it indicates strength. Two face cards you should only push if it’s something like KT7 with all different suits or maybe QT4. 3 facecards you should always avoid pushing. The only way you’ll win is if someone folds a pair of queens or jacks (with a king or ace on board) AND a straight draw, or if someone has a pocket pair like 8s which is unlikely.
If the table does not yet know your style, you can consider the opponent. If you hit a hand, bet a small amount or check based on your opponent. If you bet a small amount your opponent may just call or may push. In some situations when you bet around a 7th of your chips and your opponent always throws out a smaller bet, you can check raise all in with a draw or nothing at all, but I’d only consider this with say a J 37 with no same suits.

In the middle and lower range of this zone (as well as into the upper orange zone), you can also consider an all in resteal as long as it’s with a hand that won’t be dominated if you get called… You don’t want a facecard here, and you want straight possibilities… Suited, would help, but not necessary.
T 12-18 all in resteal with any non dominated hand with straight possibilities 96 85 74
15-20- bet from small or big blind and move in on flop.
T 15-22 All in over a raise and a call (if you can isolate)
DAN SAYS:

M of 6-10 (BB of 9-15) – Although Dan’s zone includes 15 times the big blind in which you can move all in over a raise and a call (at 15) and bet from small or big blind and move in on flop (at 15). I will include the all in resteal with any nondominated hand with straight possibilities, as you will do this from 12-15 times the big blind in this range, but do not do it past that point as the chances you get called are great. At 8-13.5 times the big blind, move all in with suited connectors, any pair, suited one gap connectors. Some may argue that suited aces should move in, but I think you’ll probably get called by someone that has an ace. You’re move is pretty much all in at this point.

DAN SAYS:

M of 1-5 (BB of 1.5 to 7.5) While you may be able to steal the right opponents blinds while you’re in the upper part of this, you pretty much should consider that you’re going to get called. You may have a chance to steal the blinds, but most likely not. Dan says you’re only move is all in. Personally rather then hope you get the blinds, that you wait for the most possible situation. Your chance of winning the hand should be decent, but you probably won’t be the favorite. That’s okay, because since you’re so low in chips, a few limp ins will give you a few more big blinds. For this reason, I’d rather wait until there’s a hand with some action in it. Preferably a raise and a reraise, or a bunch of calls and someone pushing all in. You’re not looking to be in a favorable position as much as you’re looking to get a situation which the pot odds are right. It’s at this position that you may be able to have a raise and a few calls and someone pushes all in trying to pick up the pot. You could call at this point and very possibly go heads up against say ace king, and only be a dog by about 40% and if you win you may be tripling or quadrupling up because of all the dead money in the pot. You won’t get this situation if you’re pushing all in because you’re pretty much at best going to just barely get back into the orange zone and then get blinded back down. When the blinds raise, you’re pretty much desperate again. The difference between 4 times the big blind and 7 times the big blind isn’t as much as it seems because the lower chips you have, the better pot odds you have in these situations. I’d rather have a situation like the above mentioned with 4 times the big blind, then push all in and get 1 caller with only the small and big blind in the pot. At this time more time has also passed. But if you wait for the pot odds, and you win, you can probably get back into the mid-upper Orange zone, you can steal a few big pots into the yellow zone, and advance towards the later stages of the tournament where everything changes and everyone is short stacked in relationship to the blinds. By doing this, I believe you are more likely to make it into the money, and more likely to win.
L 0-8 wait to call all in with best pot odds. Or get heads up against big blind and do a minraise with all in regardless of flop. Expect your all in to get called. You’re hopping for a lot of calls and then a raise and a reraise all in. You want to get a lot in the pot, but headsup

Red Zone When you get to this point, your only move is all in. Your only hope here is to steal some blinds and antes when you can, then double up when you have the right cards. You can play small pairs or suited connectors, but only if you’re going all in. Basically, any decent hand is worth an all in.
M of <1
Blood Red zoneWhen you get to this point, you’re basically eliminated. It will take some crazy hands to get back into the sit and go.

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Please note: You can only view your own down cards. Other players will only see your cards if they were played through to showdown.

^{« Prev Hand}^|^{Next Hand »}
Orange Zone: You are now getting a little low. You lose the opportunity to make some aggressive plays. The problem is that if you try to make an all in move against a raise/re-raise, it’s not going to be enough of a raise to get opponents to fold decent hands. Your goal here is to be the first one to enter pots. You shouldn’t be calling with low pairs or suited connectors, because they are just drawing hands. An excellent play here is to reraise all in in the big blind if you suspect the dealer or small blind is stealing.When your M is between 10 and 20, you are said to be in the Yellow Zone. You still have a decent chip stack, but you need to make some aggressive plays here, because blinds are catching up to you. You should now avoid low pocket pairs and low suited connectors, because these hands lose their implied value that is needed to increase your stack. Your stack is not big enough to call for playing these hands.When you have an M of 20+, you are said to be in the Green Zone. When you have this many chips, you can use various styles of play, and pretty much can try anything. The green zone is the best situation to be in, but you can’t play too wild, as you still need to build your stack. Blinds are always raising, so you can never have too many chips. You should use a tight aggressive strategy when you are in the Green Zone.}}}}}

^{^{Hand Number}}
^{^236085133}

^{^{Start Date}}
^{^{2006-03-26 15:44:18.0}}

^{^{End Date}}
^{^{2006-03-26 15:45:35.0}}

^{^{Pot Size}}
^{^$91.00}

^{^Rake}
^{^$3.00}

^{^{Game Type}}
^{^Hold’Em}

^{^{Play Mode}}
^{^Real}

^{^{Table Name}}
^{^{Castle Pines}}

^{^Structure}
^{^Fixed}

^{^{Table Stakes}}
^{Min BetMax BetAnteBlinds$2.00$4.00 $1.00$2.00}

^{^{Community Cards}}
^{^{K K 9 3 7}}

^{Player Information}

^{^Screen

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^{^{Seat

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^{^Cards

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^{^{Start/End

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^{^bluechip777}
^¹

^{^{$199.00/$199.00}}
^{^$0.00}
^{^$0.00}

^{^poppin}
^²

^{^{$185.50/$185.50}}
^{^$0.00}
^{^$0.00}

^{^killerbee587}
^³

^{^{$93.00/$89.00}}
^{^$4.00}
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^{^jrixey}
^⁴

^{^{$94.25/$88.25}}
^{^$6.00}
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^{^htoner}
^⁵
^{^9 8}
^{^{$45.50/$19.50}}
^{^$26.00}
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^{^{Eddie Torr}}
^⁶

^{^{$88.75/$86.75}}
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^{^TwoDogs}
^⁷
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^{^Mike4mike}
^⁸
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^{^ellaspapi}
^⁹

^{^{$165.25/$165.25}}
^{^$0.00}
^{^$0.00}

^{^flyhigh}
^¹⁰

^{^{$206.50/$202.50}}
^{^$4.00}
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^{Hand Actions}

^{^Player}
^{^Action}
^{^{Action Data}}
^{^Timestamp}

^{^jrixey}
^{^{Set dealer/Bring in spot}}
^⁴
^{^15:44:18}

^{^htoner}
^{^{Ante/Small blind}}
^{^{$ 1.00}}
^{^15:44:18}

^{^{Eddie Torr}}
^{^{Big blind/Bring in}}
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^{^15:44:18}

^{^bluechip777}
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^{^15:44:18}

^{^poppin}
^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}

^{^15:44:18}

^{^killerbee587}
^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}

^{^15:44:18}

^{^jrixey}
^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}

^{^15:44:18}

^{^htoner}
^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}
^{^9 8}
^{^15:44:18}

^{^{Eddie Torr}}
^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}

^{^15:44:18}

^{^TwoDogs}
^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}
^{^K J}
^{^15:44:18}

^{^Mike4mike}
^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}
^{^8 J}
^{^15:44:18}

^{^ellaspapi}
^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}

^{^15:44:18}

^{^flyhigh}
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^{^15:44:18}

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^{^15:44:28}

^{^Mike4mike}
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^{^15:44:29}

^{^ellaspapi}
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^{^flyhigh}
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^{^bluechip777}
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^{^poppin}
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^{^killerbee587}
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^{^15:44:41}

^{^jrixey}
^{^Raise}
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^{^15:44:42}

^{^htoner}
^{^Call}
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^{^15:44:44}

^{^{Eddie Torr}}
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^{^{$ 2.00}}
^{^15:44:46}

^{^TwoDogs}
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^{^15:44:49}

^{^Mike4mike}
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^{^{$ 2.00}}
^{^15:44:50}

^{^flyhigh}
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^{^15:44:51}

^{^killerbee587}
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^{^15:44:53}

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^{^15:44:53}

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^{^K K 9}
^{^15:44:53}

^{^htoner}
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^{^15:44:56}

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^{^{$ 2.00}}
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^{^Mike4mike}
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^{^15:45:00}

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^{^killerbee587}
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^{^{Rake amount}}
^{^{$ 0.25}}
^{^15:45:05}

^{^{Betting round completed}}
^{^{Last active pot = $32.50}}
^{^15:45:05}

^{^{Card dealt to table}}
^³
^{^15:45:05}

^{^htoner}
^{^Check}

^{^15:45:07}

^{^TwoDogs}
^{^Bet}
^{^{$ 4.00}}
^{^15:45:12}

^{^Mike4mike}
^{^Call}
^{^{$ 4.00}}
^{^15:45:13}

^{^jrixey}
^{^Fold}
^{^{$ 0.00}}
^{^15:45:14}

^{^htoner}
^{^Raise}
^{^{$ 8.00}}
^{^15:45:17}

^{^TwoDogs}
^{^Raise}
^{^{$ 8.00}}
^{^15:45:19}

^{^Mike4mike}
^{^Call}
^{^{$ 8.00}}
^{^15:45:23}

^{^htoner}
^{^Call}
^{^{$ 4.00}}
^{^15:45:25}

^{^{Rake amount}}
^{^{$ 1.50}}
^{^15:45:25}

^{^{Betting round completed}}
^{^{Last active pot = $67.00}}
^{^15:45:25}

^{^{Card dealt to table}}
^⁷
^{^15:45:25}

^{^htoner}
^{^Check}

^{^15:45:27}

^{^TwoDogs}
^{^Bet}
^{^{$ 4.00}}
^{^15:45:30}

^{^Mike4mike}
^{^Raise}
^{^{$ 8.00}}
^{^15:45:31}

^{^htoner}
^{^Call}
^{^{$ 8.00}}
^{^15:45:33}

^{^TwoDogs}
^{^Call}
^{^{$ 4.00}}
^{^15:45:35}

^{^{Betting round completed}}
^{^{Last active pot = $91.00}}
^{^15:45:35}

^{^Mike4mike}
^{^Showdown}
^{^{Show card: Flush

K J 9 8 7}}
^{^15:45:35}

^{^htoner}
^{^Showdown}
^{^{Muck card}}
^{^15:45:35}

^{^TwoDogs}
^{^Showdown}
^{^{Muck card}}
^{^15:45:35}

^{^Mike4mike}
^{^{Hand result}}
^{^{$ 91.00}}
^{^15:45:35}

Now I played J8 in early position and when I hit a draw I paid, then they bet and raised before I could call on the turn. I wasn’t sure if I made the right decision on the turn so here’s the calculations all the way through
I called a 2 dollar bet from earlier position and it was raised to 4. The only thing you can question is the original call, … according to the value chart from http://www.pokerroom.com/games/evstats/pairStats.php
The average value for J8 suited regardless of limit position and players is –0.03. However, I believe it can be profitable to play slightly negative values if you make up f for it by making more than .03 value after the flop. Also if there’s 4 people from the position I was in it’s profitable. Also the extra $2.00 in deadmoney might have made up for the value. Regardless here’s the way the rest of the hand played out.
Potsize: on the flop of KsKd9s potsize was $26.00 At this point I’m taking a slight risk to continue because if I’m up against K9 99 or KK I’m drawing dead… but KK is statistically very unlikely, K9 isn’t a playable hand, and 99 isn’t likely either. I can assume at this point that I have 7-9 outs If 7 outs is the case I have a 27% chance of completing on the river. In hindsight if I knew I could get a $91 pot, I could
26 was already in the pot, that money’s no longer mine.
So it’s 65 of the pot left, and between 3 people that’s 21 each, 8 of which came AFTER I hit… but lets ignore implied odds for now, $26 came preflop, and $24 came on the river.
It’s a potsize of $43 from the flop and the turn. That’s $14 each. So I’m paying 14 at this point to get 43… if there’s 7 outs 27.8% of 43 is 11.954 so it’s a little too much to justify a call. With 9 outs, it’s 35% of 43 or 15, and if this was the case it’s a correct call. 7 or 8 outs and it’s a slight mistake.
Now to break it down each bet, on the flop. On the flop after rake it was $24.75 after a bet it essentially was $2 to win $32. A clear call. Now’s where it gets tricky. The flush didn’t come on the turn. I was faced with a bet. At this point it was 4 to get 40. If the 3 on the board paired now I was in trouble so the 3 of clubs was no longer an out. Now I had 7 outs if one player had a King, 6 outs if they both had a king (the other card in their hand is either a club or they can pair it with that club. In hindsight it was actually 8 outs because they had KJ and I had the J of clubs so I still had all live flush cards except the 3. So $4 to get $40…. A clear call. The problem was once I was raised and someone reraised. It was 8 more to call, but now if the other player called this was a $59 pot (after rake). Plus my $8. Well for 8 more this is also a call with 7 outs, and a call if I only had 6 outs. The only thing that you could argue was if I could anticipate the raises. If this were the case it was $12 to get $67. That would not be a call.
But let’s look at implied odds Lets say There were only 6 outs, lets figure out implied odds. There’s a 12% chance to hit on the river. This means that 88% of the time I lose $8. However, 12% of the time I assume I will win not only $67, but get at LEAST another bet out of the players. If I only can get one bet out of them, I will be making 8 more dollars. If this is the case then it’s $12 to win 79. If this were the case I would be making a small mistake and paying an extra 24c. However, if I knew I could get 2 more bets, which I clearly thought to be possible, and thought 3 more was likely, it’d be $12 to win $91. In this case, it was correct to call for 7 outs even if I anticipated 2 raises, but not for 6 outs. Now what about if I had 6 outs for $8 and could only assume one more call. Well at this point it was $8 to win 79. A correct decision.
As it turned out I had 8 outs. Lets see if I knew this and could anticipate only gaining 1 bet on the river it’d be $12 to win $79. If this was the case it was a correct decision as well. WithOUT the implied odds and 8 outs IF I anticipated the raise and reraise this was a small mistake as it was $12 for $67
Verification ID: 7d1e6b02af59efefd53323255d6ded3d
215
272
349
386 (420)(496)(527)à579.7
579.7
240
400
Betting on poker
Maniac
KK vs QQ flop 10 7 5 check check
Turn 7 bet raise reraise all in call
99 multiway
672
someone bet I call
turn 5
big bet I raise
all in I call they show 65
river 2 I win
kk vs 55
hit his set
JJ vs KQ
Flop K52 guy bets pot with short stack like he’s desperate I go over the top he shows KQ
Folded AK from SB to ep limper and 575 bet then a shortstack 175 all in raiser had AK then was stupid and from dealer bet preflop checked behind then called 2 big bets with midpair. NOT A GOOD PLAY WITH A ROCK GARDEN TABLE!
300 misclick
down to 1700 all in against tightest blinds with 39s
got all my money in by river with aces and back to 4015 with blinds at 75/150
table change to 100/200 blinds
raised with 56suited from mid-late position someone went all in and restole
Hey Mouth and Cooler love the show
Mike I saw you at the 50/100 no limit table on fulltilt just in time to see that luckbox move in on the turn for the rest of his 11k when you had over 5k left when he had 14 outs. If you had KJ or instead of J10 he’d only have 11 outs. But even with 14 outs he’s going to miss 70% of the time. Even I knew he was on a draw the way he panicked and shoved in after the turn came a blank. It was just BRUTAL to watch as the same guy later gets all his money in with AK on the flop with only 6 outs, to take some poor bastards roll up against QQ as the ace hit on the river. Once again he was lucky to even have that many as the QQ could easily have KK or AA 2 pair or a set, and even luckier to hit this time as he’s going to lose all this money over 75% of the time in this situation. I think I might have to take out a loan and follow this guy around and wait for a set to let him bluff off all his money with nothing but AK.
Anyway, 72o against aces doesn’t hold up to well, I felt bad for you. As the one time you move in you run into aces. I’ve had enough problems with people calling or moving in with nothing and hitting myself. You want a bad beat story how about this I’m on the button with AK of hearts, I raise it guy reraises I call. Flop comes Ks8h2h guy bets the pot (he was so easy to read he’d bet when he had nothing and check when he didn’t he’d bet, when he’s on a draw he’d bet or raise the minimum.) so I double the bet and reraise him and he push in. The guy takes like 3 seconds and calls with Ace 6 of clubs. Turn comes a 6o calls and immediately bets the pot again and I know he didn’t even look at the turn so I reraise him all in. The turn card was the 6 of dimonds river comes 6 of spades.

Sincerely

Scott what’s are the top 3 poker books you’ve read in order starting with the best?
Mike what did it feel like after the beat John dags put on you with all his money in, 1 card to come before you moved all in with 27off and got called by aces?
My question is difficult to explain, and it’s not so much a question but more a topic for discussion.
Is there a method you use to mix up your play so have the perfect balance of good cards and bad cards so you can represent strong hands and buy pots with weak hands, but still get action with strong hands?
If the only hand you played was aces, you probably wouldn’t get as much action against good observant players. If you added a hand like 45 suited, you could represent aces with the 45. Preflop you’ll either get more action with your aces, or buy pots with your 45. Post flop if you pick up a draw you can give them the price to draw to 2 pair, then if you hit a straight or flush you can get paid off. I want to be able to do this by not only my hadn selection in general, but also what position I’ll limp, raise, call raises or reraise with, to give me the right balance of strength and weakness given the dynamics of the table.
I feel like if you did things that normally is a bad play, it can give you future value. I’ve thought about this but haven’t really experimented with it too much. However, I find myself in situations where I’m better off stealing with bad hands that I wouldn’t normally play because then I will get a hand and get action against a weaker hand than that player usually plays.
I mean, if someone thought you played every Ax the same way and had no knowledge of you playing any other cards in that spot (say raising from the big blind after everyone limps to you), later you’d be able to play hands that are very disguised, represent the ace and get a lot more respect from mid pairs if an ace comes. It really gives you a chance to win with various flops that you normally wouldn’t as you either have the best hand or represent top pair. It seems like these days the suited connectors are no longer hidden to the good players as you could put an opponent who plays a lot of flops on it. I think I’d prefer a predictable image so I could do completely unpredictable things every now and then and get away with it, even though when you have strength. I think if you can make yourself APPEAR predictable, but at the same time play a fair amount of hands, it’s the best of both worlds as you can buy a lot more small pots, (representing the ace effectively), but also get action from your hidden hands, and appear loose enough to get action when you flop a monster as well. (If people have an ace they assume you just have ace no kicker and that they have you outkicked and they make a move on you).
Of course there’s times when people ignore your image and wait for a hand, and it’s better to just keep buying blinds, and there’s times when people ignore your image and try to bluff every hand where all you have to do is wait for a hand.
Just wondering if you get that specific into building an image and if there’s other things that you can do to get the right balance of getting action from your good hands, and stealing with your bad.
There’s also something I like to do which is to bet the same amount on a draw as I do with top pair, then if the draw card hits I can represent that I hit if I haven’t, and if I have it a I can represent top pair on the flop, and if I think the guy’s weak or on a draw himself I can take it down on the turn or river. By this method I remain fairly unpredictable without changing my game up to much, and people may try to guess and guess wrong. I can do this in more ways than one and I’m trying to figure out which situations are better than others. When I use this method, I’ll do the same thing everytime until I move tables… But sometimes I feel like it’s better to bet a 3rd of the pot everytime on a draw as well as top pair and nothing else, sometimes it’s better to overbet the pot with 2 pair or a draw. Sometimes it’s better to play fast go all in with overpair, twopair, set or draw. Sometimes it’s better to check and call with a draw and strength, they’ll either keep betting into you thinking you’re on a draw, or they’ll back off and give you a chance to either take the pot or take a freecard. At this point I like to mix up my game. If you always bet on a draw and check with strength, for awhile you will probably take down pots with nothing but a draw, and the other times it will look like you were taking a free card and they’ll probably think you missed and you’ll get paid off on the river. After awhile if you think people might catch on, you can completely reverse it, or you can start checking both or betting both.
And other times if people are aggressive or loose, it’s better to take the draw out of the equation. Of course if the tables giving me enough respect I make the same bet with nothing every once and awhile as well.
I’ve seen someone at the WPT against Gus Hanson have a gutshot straight draw, and when he hit a pair, he shoved all in just like he hit the straight. You can’t do this too much or they’ll catch on, but I think this really could be a way to give yourself more outs against the top players that pay attention. Which hands will you play the same way, or do you just mix up your betting enough so people have troubles reading you?
When are you guys going on satilite radio?
loong tourney report this time, I got a lot of details. Everytime I had a break I wrote down a few highlights of the hands. So here it is….
Played another $7, 3500 guarentee tourney. This tournament had 375 players in it. I experimented by starting out loose this time, playing a few hidden hands and looking to double up off the people that either think top pair medium kicker is worth calling an all in early, or for the people that just want to double up or go home. Hit a hand but had to just call because he mighta had flush but it was a large bet so I figure he was probably bluffing and I called and won.
We started at 1000 and I was back to around 1500 after that hand. I made a good sized raised to make it look like I was stealing it with KK from late position, and the guy with less chips than me moves all in I call. He has AQ and misses the Ace so Im up to 2200 or so. Next hand Im dealt pocket aces and theres a raise in front of me. I make a 3x reraise and he calls the flop is 435 rainbow and he checks so I make a small bet so if he has ace something hell wrongly figure he has 10 outs. The turn is a jack making a 2nd spade. He just moves all in on me so I think for a little while but I call. He turns up AJ with the ace of spades with 1 card to come and misses his 11 outer, (15 to split). Good spot to get my money in as I win 70 percent of the time and split 10 percent. Im up to 5000 or so 50X the big blind early on.
After dropping down to 4000 or so everyone folded and it was the small blind vs me on the big blind. I had 84 off and the flop was 873 all hearts. In most situations I was at LEAST a coinflip. Only thing I could be worried about is if he had a set or two pair WITH another 8(87 or 83), and even then I had 9 outs. Since he was in small blind and didn’t raise, I really didn’t think he had a set and there was only 2 hands I could be worried about. he made a small bet and I raised and he reraised all in. For all I know he has a 7 and thinks he can get me to fold, but after he reraised all in I really thought HE was the one on a flush draw. With like ace6 or something. With an overcard. I made a call that was borderline since it was all my chips on the line when I’m probably 50/50 in most cases to win, and I probably coulda gradually built up my chipstack and avoid risking too much, but there was a lot of chips in the pot already so I was getting good odds to call. I called and he turned over 87. While I did get lucky to hit, I don’t think it was a horrible play. Anyway I was up to 9k after this stayed patient, selectively chopped away up to 11 k got in a hand and a guy hit his 5 outer on me I shouldve folded on the turn after he raised but I was still at 9k around there then a blind steal got pushed all in and ante started and I was down to 8k for awhile. Then after the break the first hand someone with like 2500 limped and I pushed all in thinking I wouldnt get called, but I did and it was A3suited that called lol. I had K8 and I hit 688 on the flop but my opponent had a flush draw. He missed hitting his flush on the turn and river so I was back up to 11k.
I had AQ against a player who had previously limped then called an all in with A 7 limp in 1st position I raised with AQ from 2nd position 4X the BB he called and after a 428 flop I moved in. At this point I took control and had a fairly wild image after the flop. (I would plan on doing the same again once I had a big hand and try to make it look like Im slowplaying something later when I dont have a hand. Right now I think they have the feeling that I just made a big bluff there.)
Things slowed down, I don’t think I was active enough and didnt steal enough blinds at this point but the table was loose enough that I would get action when I hat my hand I still went up to 10k and maintained into the money, but the blinds were up to 600/1200 and I was getting desperate with 10k
Had A 4 on big blind and a guy took awhile and minraised and I really feel this guy was weak. Rather than push now, I opted to call and make a play after the flop. I ended up hitting my 4 with a 10 high flop so it was probably good anyways but I pushed in and he folded and didn’t raise my big blind after that.
Was at 13-14k got 88 from button and the cutoff raised it. I decided it was push or fold here and I opted to push and I took the blinds and found myself with 19k nearing 20k.
We changed tables and I hit the 2nd level of payouts. I didnt have too many chips and the blinds were raising soon so I had to choose how I would play my table fairly quickly. I could either move in a few times and from then I’d have enough chips to pick up a few blinds with small raises, or I could sit and wait and hope to double up. The table looked aggressive and I really couldn’t do much. One guy moved all in 3 times in 8 hands the guy got taken out with 10 10 vs JJ on the last time

I got 66 the next hand and opted to fold after a limper, may have been a mistake as calling was less than 10 percent of my chips, I could eaisly be in a coinflip, and I will hit my set 1/9 times and I could double up. It was early on and I didn’t have too much of a read on the table though so I decided to wait for a hand while I look for anything that stood out. I picked up AQ and raised it, got called and pushed all in after an 88A flop. Went up to 21k from there and was in decent shape with 21 players left. Perhaps I shouldve made a small bet after the flop here to get more value, but I wanted people to be afraid of my raises, and more likely to call the next one. I felt like people were raising too often but I wasnt about to push all in on a resteal when I didn’t have enough chips to scare away an average raising hand. I might pick a spot or two and try the stop and go but no restealing. Now… I found myself At 20k with 18 left now it gets tricky. Like I said last time I think I need to make some moves and take charge of the table early, play in a few small pots and build my chipstack so I can sit and coast into the final table…. But since I was short stack, all of that was irrelevent and it was basically push or fold with antes eating me up and only about 10X the big blind in chips.

I Pushed in with 66 from small blind and took down 2 bb and my small blind antes and was back from 18 to 22k. Almost pushed with 87 off since there was 2 loose limpers and if i got called I still probably had like a 40 percent chance of winning, and had a tight image, but I didnt. I really felt if I picked up a hand I could easily make the final table. After falling just short of the big money last time I wanted to make sure I at least made the final table, could let everyone go at it and fold my way up the money. Pushing all in here might make me more money in the long run, but it’s hard to say.
I later made a small raise with KQ and bought the blinds and was back to 22k
I didnt feel like I could run my table down with my shorter stack so I had to pick my spots and just try to kind of maintain until I had a raising hand.
Blinds went to 1500/3000 with 300 ante so it was very rough on me
Got 66 and someone limped time to shove again.. was back to 25k
2 people all in and a call 2 people gone.. we were down to 12 people
suddenly we were at the final table with 8 people left
Almost pushed after 2 limpers with KT suited but couldnt do it as one of the players was about to bust out and simply by folding I can earn an extra $30 or so. Then again if I make this play, maybe I have a chance at winning it which is like $600 more. I got AT suited and pushed and picked up the blinds and 25k I was again. Folded KJ from 1st position, coulda pushed here too. Had to fold A8 from SB after someone moved in was hoping someone else would call and take him down.

Got desperate and went all in from SB with J10 I was up against QQ yet I hit a 987 flop and I ended up winning the pot! I had aces once and kings once this entire tourney, so I was due for some luck. Boy did it feel good to hit that flop as I was up to 30k for the first time.
Got 66 again and was raised…. went all in over the top and took the blinds and the raise down and was up to 35k
2 big stacks collided and AK vs 22 was the all in preflop with 22 hitting a set and winning.
Down to 7 players now!
Someone let me see a flop on my big blind I had 10-6 the flop was Q65 and I checked inducing a bet and I shoved all in. Suddenly was up to 43k. I raised with KQ on a shorter stack and they called then moved in on a rag flop. If I could’ve anticipated this play I would’ve put them all in preflop. They really were too loose and aggressive at this point so I should’ve kept with the push or fold unless I had a hand where I wanted action with.

Anyway, after that move I dropped down to 37k or so.
Someone all in with 10-10 and lost, we were down to 6.
A couple hands later the same guy who pulled the stop& go on me went all in with midpair and got called and was out.
Nice down to 5 but the blinds were insane at this point!
Got AJ and called an all in from the shorter stack he had AQ but after the board came 882 then an 8 on the turn and an 8 on the river we split both with quads Ace kicker. PHEW! Next hand I got J10 suited and moved in hoping to take down the blinds and ran into AQ again! This time game over I’m done!

But After only a $7 buy in I end up with $210 so Im not complaining (and that should cover my losses on my bad beats)

The guy who started the final table as short stacked ended up getting down to like 5k at one point, and then kept winning and eventually he ended up getting 2nd place. The high blind structure sure helped but it was fun to watch the guy come from nowhere to chip leader. Sometimes being reckless in the right spots and patient in the others is the way to go.
If I would’ve taken a few more risks, I may not have been forced to take the risks with the AJ and J10, but after those bad beats and my bankroll dropping so low, I chose to play to get a high finish (with winning still being a possibility, just not as likely) rather than to win
Today we are going to talk about sit n go strategy and how it relates to tournament play.Today we’re talking about sitNgos and how it relates to MTT play. One of the ebst strategies that I know is both before the mney and in the money of Sit N Gos is to give up your BB or even complete your sb and give it up to a short stack.   This move is like making a deposit at a bank, or putting it into an investment. One which you will not only get back, but you will get it back plus interest. The reason is first everyone is playing to maek the money. By doing this you cause people to have to fold a lot more. Now you have an opportunity to steal. This is the same strategy if your opponent is on yourleft and he pushes in and it’s not much more. Regardless of your hand you should fold… provided you can continue to steal blinds. Also, players that play to make the money maay still come in for a raise because they feel if tthey don’t you will just keep the short stack in. NOWS where after you’ve been folding all this time to shove all in. The opponent you’re up against probably will put you on a top range of hands, he’ll VERY likely fold if he wants to make the money. If he calls you have him outchipped.    For the most part you are raising and willing to shove in with every hand on the bubble and short handed. The blinds are worth it. Sure , you’re probably going to get called before you have a chance to amass chips, but usually you will accumulate about as much as you would lose… and rember, just because you get called by a ebetter hand does NOT mean that you are a huge dog… In Fact, most likely you have a 35% chance of winning or more. When 35% of the time you double up and make the money in a position to win, and most of the time you’re taking down the blinds which are huge, It’s worth ti to shove every hand. Unless of course you are short sacked, BUT the guy next to you has been taking the same strategy of giving up his blind every hand, or soene else is in danger of going out. Still, most of the time I’m going for the win. I’m usually yielding to aggression, The way it relates to MTTs is that there comes a point when you need to pick up aggression, it also kind of shows that it doesn’t really matter if you give up a small pot to a short stack, especially if the short stack is a bad player. You WANT as MANY bad players in the game, and as FEW good players in the game as possible.   If letting a bad player win a pot gets him a chance to double up, and now you have a LOT more chips to target. So if he’s weak and you can steal his blind every hand, or if he’s a maniac and goes all in everyhand, folding to him and giving him schips is only a small mistake. He may just bust a very good player who has AA or KK because he gets lucky. He will inevitably take a big hit, you will have him outchipped, and you can go in for the kill. . It is also only a small mistake, if any to fold the best hand to a maniac. Same story here. Let him accumulate tons of chips and take people out, your chances of WINNING are much much better that way. The ideal player to double up if you have to, is one that is loose passive. The calling station. You just bet your strong hands, check your weak ones, bet big the bigger your hand, all in with the best hand. The biggest thing becoming an expert at sitNgos will teach you, is how important playing tight in these tournaments are., and how much more valuable aggression is late, short handed, with large blinds. I would definitely learn how to play other parts of your game extremely well, learn patience first, THEN learn sitNgos, but the combination of the patience to wait for a hand, the aggression at all the right points, learning When to keep an opponent alive, andheadsup play, as well as having a great understanding of small pot poker and risk management, is what the makings of a great player are. .
(to audio) Hi I’ Mike and I’m attempting to build a bankroll starting from nothing and going to $1000 Believe me it’s very possible. Chris Ferguson went from 0 to 10,000… Obviously I’m no Chris Ferguson, but I can still play a very good game at low stakes, even with these MASSIVE fields of 5000 players, I still can cash fairly consistently. . The Chris ferguson 0 to 10,000 was great, and it showed the power of bankroll management and determination. It showed how you usually build your bankroll expoentnially. But what it did not show was how to play, how to dominate these weaker fields, how to know when to power your way up in chips, when to grind it out, and when to sit back and trap your opponent. What hands to play, what hands NOT to playm, and why a lot of the hands you’ll fold, will be very playable at different stages. I’m primarily a tournament player because I believe it requires the most variety of skill. Measuring future odds and present odds, knowing when you can play a lot of hands, and when you shouldn’t play any, when you can afford to pass up an edge, and when you want to even gamble even as a small dog.   True, you may never be able to read an opponent or have a stone cold poker face like Chris Ferguson, but this is ONLINE, there are no visable tells (other than time between bets and betting patterns which I consider separate from tells). There are only ranges of hands people play, and ranges of hands people raise with, and amount people raise with. Everything in online tournament poker is EASILY learnable if you see someone who’s took a LOT of experience and reading and mathematical calculations to know how to play.   Join me as I tech you to absolutely obliterate and dominate the freerolls and small stakes, how to qualify for bigger freerolls and supersatellite your way in. After the poker explosion, you saw a lot of pros shave a difficult time making the final table. The players play WAAY different than they were used to, the fields are MUCH bigger making the game a different one, and the players are much more likely to be gunning for the pros. Finally the pros are starting to make that adjustment. You see players like Greg Raymer and Mike Matusow, Phil Helmuth and Dan Harrington, Phil Ivey, Scotty Nguyen, and Joe Hachem and others suddenly start gto get there myuch more consistently, or at least finish deep with a real shot at winning. I’ve studied the players who’ve made it deep, how they’ve played early, and how they play late. There are quite a few amatures that “accidentially” did a lot of things that they may not be able to repeat. I’ve noticed a LOT of similarities in what many of the pros have done with what some of the “lucky” amatures have done. So what are these adjustments? The same ones YOU will have to make over the field. Pros simply have too much of an edge to try to take these slight edges for their tounrnament life. And it doesn’t matter that you only have a small edge, the people who play freerollerss afre often the WORST players.   The 9th best player in the world is STILL going to walk away a BIG loser if he plays against thethe top 10 players in the world. It’s all relative, andI’d venture to say that in freerolls, YOU have an edge over the fild that iss just as large as the edge the top pros have.   What are these adjustments? The same ones that I’ll be sharing with you as I post videos of me playing in tournaments, as I talk you through the hands on my way from 0 to $1000. You’ll get an “over the shoulder look” as I show you things that may seem to defy conventional wisdom. As I pass up edges, and play hands that you wouldn’t touch with a 10-ft pole. You’re going to see videos posted on this site, and I also have a podcast explaining all of my tips and strategies. There’s no better place to get this kind of information for free. So sign up to get notified when I’ve added a post, register for the podcast, and watch the videos. .   With my advice, you should be able to apply it to your game, and find yourself making final tables, and winning freerolls, and gaining a lot of skill very quickly. Who knows, you might even be able to apply my advice and ebat me on my way to 1000… I welcome all challengers. I’m Going to record how many freerolls I’ve played in, and how many days/months it takes me.
If someone can beat me, I’ll gladly welcome the challenge.
-incentive
If someone can beat me, I’ll give away a free ebook… If I don’t go from 0 to 1000 within 12 month s, This ebook will be free for everyone.
-

^{Poker Room}
^{Bonuses Deducted}
^{Tournament Fees}
^{Rakeback %}
^{Referral bonus}
^{$ per 100 raked
(WITH BONUS)}
^Ranking

^{Absolute Poker(200% to $200)}
^No
^No
²⁸⁺
^{$50 after your FRIEND plays 100 hands}
^{28+20+ =48++
+50=98+}
^{1 for money/hand}

^{Bet Direct}
^No
^No

^Betfair
^No
^Yes

^Bodog
^Yes
^No

^{Bugsy’s Club}
^No
^Yes

^Cardroom
^Yes
^No

^{Celeb Poker}
^No
^Yes

^{Classic Poker}
^No
^Yes

^{Doyle’s Room}
^No
^Yes

^{Fortune Poker}
^No
^Yes

^Interpoker
^No
^Yes

^Littlewoods
^No
^Yes

^{Pacific Poker}
^Yes
^No

^Parbet
^Yes
^No

^{Poker Plex}
^No
^Yes

^{Superior Poker}
^Yes
^No

^{TGF Poker}
^No
^Yes

^{Titan Poker}
^Yes
^Yes

^{Total Bet}
^No
^Yes

^{UK Betting}
^No
^Yes

^{Ultimate Bet}
^{25% Deducted}
^No

^{Virgin Pokerbr}
^No
^Yes

^{William Hill}
^No
^Yes

^{Other Sites (bonus deducted)}
^{2 World poker no rake 100 per 100 raked (skip blinds)-play AA KK QQ AK}
Absolute $98 of every 100 raked – rake if you’re dealt in, so find tables with large average pots and simply fold a lot. (28+20+ =48+++50=98+)
Titan poker $75 referral bonus 25 instant after your friend deposits 50 earned (32% rakeback, 150 deposit) 32+20=52+25 instant per friend =77
Poker.com bonus +50 after friend plays 100 hands=a good deal but no RB
Doylesroom.com 50+(25 no more rakeback?) (25 referral)=rakeback gone=75per 100
Interpoker-32% rakeback+20 (100%bonus)+per hour play=52+10-30 an hour…
$10 at 80 hands per hour 80 hands of rake with $20 average pot=.1 per hand=$8 of rake an hour
Bodog 33.3+13.4= 46/100raked
Business and investments
Income
Employment –exchanging time for money
Self employment income- exchanging time for money
The time you are spending through employment are the most important hours
Business – hire someone to run everything and still make money
Investment -

THE ULTIMATE BONUS CHASING GUIDE
Thank you for downloading this guide. This guide will tell you how to make money even if you suck at poker. Now it is mostly meant so that anyone can read and implement the strategies right away. I don’t want it to be something that requires a lot of learning. There are many products that will teach you how to play poker well. If you already are a winning poker that’s fine, this eBook will simply allow you to make additional income.
I was pretty much always a winning poker player except for when I first started, but it wasn’t until I really started actively bonus chasing that my bankroll started skyrocketing. Before I discovered reload bonuses, I won a few cheap tournaments, and had a bankroll of less than $300. It took me about 4 months of casual play every now and then to get from 0 to $300 without bonus chasing. And it took only 2 weeks to get that bankroll to go from $300 to $800, and one of those days I went on tilt and lost about $100, but then I took a break and came back and after earning a little of that back, and re-depositing to get my next bonus I was quickly back to where I started and actually made a slight profit for the day. And even at this point I was not chasing the most profitable bonuses out there and was not in a rakeback program. I was only getting about $30 to every $100 I earned in rake. Now that’s much better than the 0 I was getting before I started, but there are programs out there where you can easily get $60-80 back to every $100 in rake earned.
One of the best investments I made was opening a Neteller account. It allowed me to start chasing bonuses. It’s a $0 investment, and only takes a few minutes to set up. Neteller allows you to make instant transactions you can make a withdrawal, and have that money back in your account, then redeposit that money again within the same day. I suggest you do the same at Neteller.com. Neteller is accepted at virtually every poker site out there.
Keep in mind that all of the websites I recommend are available at [website].
Now of course I have to do a little self-promotion and recommend that you download and read my ultimate guide to poker playing [here]. It contains many of the tips and strategies that the pros use, and I have obtained a lot of knowledge from books, articles and hundreds of hours of online play as well as some live play.
If you are new to playing poker and you have already purchased it, I recommend you read it first, however if you want to get started making money right away you should be able to make some money following this guide. I have made a chart that tells you what order to read it based on what you want to accomplish.
What are you looking for?

^{^1st}
^{^2nd}
^{^3rd}

^{^{Make Money as soon as possible}}
^{^{Read this bonus chasing guide first. You can follow it exactly.}}
^{^{If you want to widen your range of hands to make more money, download the odds calculator and follow it’s advice exactly}}
^{^{Go back and read the online guide when you have the time, and want to improve your own game.}}

^{^{Make the most money in the long run playing poker}}
^{^{Read my Ultimate Poker Playing guide}}
^{^{Read the Bonus chasing guide}}
^{^{Start Bonus chasing}}

^{^{Make the most money in the long run with the least amount of work in the long run.}}
^{^{Read the Ultimate Affiliate Guide and any affiliate marketing tips you can find}}
^{^{Follow the affiliate Guide, setup some affiliate sites so your websites providing you automatic wealth}}
^{^{In the meantime, read both the bonus chasing guide and the Ultimate Online Guide.}}

^{If you simply just read this guide and follow it exactly, you SHOULD make money. However you will be limiting the amount that you can make, and the amount of hands that you can play. If you use the odds calculator, you can widen your range of hands because they will suggest how many hands you play. If you read my Ultimate Guide and improve your play, you can actually learn to tweak your play based on the players that you’re against, and play hands when you have implied odds. The odds calculator will advise against some of these hands, but you can still make money if you play it just right. You can also outplay some players by determining that they are likely enough to fold enough so it’s profitable. In addition, there will be times where the odds calculator may advise you to play a hand to a raise, but you may actually notice betting pattern or notice a very tight hand selection against a certain player so that you would actually save money in the long run by folding even though the odds calculator advises a call. Also, if you use my guide you should be able to play no limit in addition to limit. If you are strictly a bonus-chaser I recommend playing limit unless you have perfected my techniques and are a great player. There is actually a technique that I will discuss in the Poker guide that will tell you if limit or No-limit is best for you. In the future, I will be coming out with a guide in the future that concentrates specifically on tournament play and sitNgos.}
^{However there are situations where playing no limit is advisable, particularly if the site that you are at credits you with rake simply for being dealt in… Especially if you can find a table where the blinds are cheap but the average potsize is high, making it easy for you to earn your bonus quickly with minimal risk and usually get paid off when you have a hand. You actually want there to be a lot of big raises before the flop, this makes it much easier when you finally get a hand as you can just get all the money preflop with a hand that’s a clear favorite. Keep in mind however that if you have AK against 1 opponent you are only about a 60/40 favorite against absolutely any non paired hand, and you are a coinflip that is slightly behind even a pair of 2s. But when you have a hand like AA KK or QQ, you are most likely a very comfortable favorite with somewhere around a 80% chance of winning.}
Alright, well without further ado, I will
Bonus chasing is great. It allows even the players that suck at poker a chance to make money. There are MANY Online poker sites out there… and guess what, they ALL are competing for you! They not only pay people to attract business, but they pay the players to join. Players are paid through a bonus. There are 3 different types of bonuses, Sign up Bonuses, Deposit bonuses, and Reload Bonuses.
Now, There are some bonuses out there that will come up every now and then where you won’t even have to make a deposit, these are a different type of bonus called “non-deposit bonuses”. Non-Deposit Bonuses are simply a different kind of Sign-up bonus. These are very helpful if you’re looking to make money, and risk absolutely NOTHING.
You can find such bonuses
[Here] [here] and [here]
Now, you probably see things that say “30% Bonus, 150% bonus, or even 300% bonus”. Don’t be tempted by these high percentage bonuses. Every single bonus has requirements. They obviously don’t allow you to withdraw immediately after making a deposit as people could just deposit over and over again, get the bonus and be out. So what they do is ensure that they make enough money from the rake and everything so that they are still able to make a small amount or break even most of the time.
There are a few ways that the poker rooms ensure this. Although there are other ways, these are the most common:
1.) They say you must play X amount of hands or more before withdrawing.
2.) They say you must play X amount of hands or more with a rake of greater than Y before withdrawing.
3.) They say you must earn X amount of rake. Note: Usually they will disguise this by saying “points”. However, this is no different. The amount of points is directly proportional to the amount of rake earned or the amount contributed. I like to compare it to an exchange rate; as for example $1 of rake will be equivalent to say 3 points.
Now the optimal bonus chasing strategy to earn your bonus as quick as possible for each method varies. If you have a site that simply requires you play a lot of hands, obviously you don’t want to invest a lot and you want to do so for as cheap as possible. You want to play as many hands as possible so look for the tables with a higher amount of hands seen per hour. I suggest multitabling playing about 3 tables at the same time and playing AA KK QQ JJ TT AK AQ. If you believe that you can play profitable poker by playing more hands and you can keep track of how people play tight and what kind of hands they play go right ahead, but it’s very difficult.
If you simply want to guarantee break-even poker, you would want to play as tight as possible and play multiple tables at once. You generally will be better off playing limit so that people can’t just see a cheap flop and when they hit a set or a straight you won’t lose a lot of chips.
Starting out with better hands than your opponents will guarantee that you will win more often than they will. So although you may lose the blinds here and there, in the long run this is usually a winning strategy
One very important factor you must consider in bonus chasing is the rake, and how it’s calculated. The rake is calculated in 3 different ways depending on the site.
1.)Total Rake/People Dealt in
-If you are a bonus chaser this is the most beneficial as you can simply fold every hand unless you get Aces, Kings, Queens, Jacks, Tens, AK or AQ. This method is profitable almost any circumstance, and doesn’t require a lot of skill. It’s pretty easy to see that if your ace or king hits that your AK probably isn’t good. Look to play super tight if you’re chasing at a site that calculates rake using this method, or requires that you play “X” amount of hands.
2.) Total Rake/Amount of players contributed to the pot
-This requires that you at least contribute something toward the pot, however you could just pay a small blind and still get an equal amount of the rake as everyone else. If you are a bonus chaser you want to see a lot of cheap flops and fold a lot on the flop. To take advantage of this you should be playing a lot of hands with big potential. A hand that can hit something that will allow you to be VERY confident that it is the winning hand when it hits. Suited aces, suited connectors, small pairs, etc. Table selection is huge here… You want a table where usually about 50% or more of the people are seeing a flop and the overall pot size is high. This usually will equate to a lot of people limping in, and raising and calling raises AFTER the flop. Simply wait till you hit a flop big and you should get paid off.
3.) Total Rake/ Percentage contributed
-This Method actually considers everything. The only method to earn a lot of rake is to earn every bit of it. There are no shortcuts here. This type of site is not the optimal site for bonus chasing, however if you do chase bonuses with this type of deal, make sure to play fundamentally solid. You want to be very patient. It will take much longer, to earn off a bonus, but you will win more money overall than if you play poor hands and use a losing strategy. If you are an expert player you can simply take every situation where you have a slight edge, and find loose-passive tables that allow you to see a cheap showdown to give you more hands that will give you an edge. If you have a small pair in a big pot you may only hit 1/9 times, but if you think you will clearly get paid off more than 9 times what it costs you to see a flop, then it’s worth doing. From the same aspect, you may have a flush draw that’s only going to hit a third of the time, and if you miss on the turn it may only hit about 20% of the time, but if you know that you’ll probably be able to make a bet and get called on the river you can determine that you will get paid off in the long run. I normally recommend waiting until your edge is great enough where you would ignore implied odds and if you have a limited bankroll, I even suggest sometimes waiting until you have the odds to make a significant amount of money in the long run rather than just slightly better than breaking even, however in this case if you have a large enough bankroll given the stakes, it’s worth taking every edge regardless of how small because you will be working off a bonus as well.
Now as a bonus chaser, in order to find the best bonus, you want to find a bonus that will pay you the most per hand. That is if you are planning on withdrawing and depositing right away. If you are planning on leaving it in there for awhile and don’t want to be an active chaser, Then you can start being more concerned about the OVERALL bonus. To get the biggest bang for
Aside from all of this there are rakeback deals out there. If you’re serious about making money online, being in a rakeback program is absolutely a must. If you are in a rakeback program, you will get a percentage of what is raked from you back. Many rakeback deals will deduct the deposit bonuses from the rake, however there are a few out there that will not.
Unfortunately if you are already signed up for poker rooms you are not eligible for rakeback offers at that site. Since I signed up for tons of poker sites when I was playing freerolls and playing play money for fun, as a result, I am not able to get some of the most profitable bonus chasing offers out there.
I have done my best to get this eBook out there as quick as possible so that others don’t make the same mistake.

LIMIT OR NO LIMIT?

Which is right for you? Are you just getting started? How big is your bankroll? How much are you willing to risk? I consider poker an investment that requires slightly more skill then investing in stocks. Do you want to learn to make a killing playing poker, or do you want to make a consistent profit now? Or do you want to risk more and make more? Can you handle the swings of no limit? Do you have a feeling inside that always tells you to play higher stakes? Are you a bonus chaser trying to earn enough points for the next bonus? All of these questions can be answered in a way that leans towards limit being more right for you, or answered in a way that leans towards no limit being a better fit. If you want to be a complete player you probably want to learn both. The strategies will vary from Limit to No-Limit, but Limit will help you understand the fundamentals and give you a good card sense and understand pot odds, that are crucial things you need to be a successful no limit player. I have heard pros say that you should learn all games so that you can find the most profitable games. I prefer gradually trying new games for fun, but the learning curve is fairly big to learn all new games for me. There’s too many games at once going on and I have developed my limit and no limit game too far for there ever to be a more profitable game in say Omaha or 7card stud for me. In the old days of brick and mortar live games people didn’t have access to poker games all around the world, so this was a much better idea, but I don’t think that you can gain enough of an edge in Omaha or 7card stud to make it worth learning anything other than limit and no limit. Now if you want to be the best and win tournaments, you may want to focus specifically on Omaha because the difference in skill level is greater, and there are less good players in Omaha, but there are so many more games available and plenty of bad players for you to play strictly No Limit and limit.
If you do decide to try to learn multiple games, I recommend that you read Doyle Brunson’s Super System I and II.
If you are a bonus chaser, who is just getting started to grind away some money starting with a small investment, I strongly recommend you learn to be a good limit player. The right no-limit game for bonus chasing may not come along depending on which bonus you are chasing. Sure there are some

It’s not who I am underneath, but what I do that defines me.
-Batman

(change opponent and “he” to “Villian”, change Me to you or “Hero”)
Turbo SitNgo Mastery
Introduction
Why Turbo SitNgos?
Advanced Moves
Squeeze Play
Method1
Method2
Method3
Raise and Go
How much?
Minraise stealing
Stop and Go
Limppush
Limp and Go
All in
Moving in on big blind
Moving in on Shorterstacks
Moving in as short stack
Pot Odds and Calling all ins.
All ins as a Shortstack big blind
(Zee Justin aggression)
Using your IMAGE
Tournament Strategy
Early on- This is the 1st and 2nd level of the tournament
Early Mid stages- 3rd level blinds are 15/30
Mid stages 4th level blinds are 30/60 or 50/100
Mid-Late stages 5th level blinds are 100/200
Late stages 6th 7th and 8th level blinds are 150/300 250/500 400/800
Introduction
Its actually pretty easy to win these things once you figure it out. All you have to do is play any kind of survival methods early on, then change your hand range based on your chip stack in the middle, and get selectively super-aggressive in the mid-late stage.
In TurboSNGs, you can still adapt to the table. The difference is you have less chips so you have to think ahead of time and know if you’re committed to this hand or not. Your margin of error is greater, but your reward for making a move is greater. The same things goes for your opponents so if you see them making moves too often, or playing too tight, you can pick out those players.
Turbo Sit N Gos are a different skill set. It involves either knowing the math and distribution of cards, or having the experience and knowing just a few principles and so you have a feel for the game. Fortunately, I know the math and have done some calculations, and I have played and learned how to master this fast paced game.
Why Turbo SitNgos?
The best part about SitNgos, are that you can play multiple sitNgos at the same time and you can play tons of sitNgo tournaments in just a short period of time. They are great practice for tournament play, and can really help you get back on your game. If you are playing these right, you will consistently make money.
They cost say $5 to join, but if you win first place, you win $25. So if you are only winning 1 out of 4 tournaments you are making money. It pays like $15 for 3rd, so if you place in the money 1 out of 3 times you are breaking even. If you’re a winning player, you’ll know it fairly soon. If you’re only winning occasionally, or if you’re a losing player, you’ll know you need to make adjustments.
Turbo SitNgos, are the faster so if you learn how to master these, you can make money even faster by playing these turbo sitNgos, and make corrections to your game faster.
It’s also eaiser. Adapting to the blind size and chip stacks is usually more important, so you don’t have to concentrate on adapting to the player as much, there is a system that will allow you to win regardless of your opponents.

Advanced Moves
Before I get into the actual strategy I want to talk to you about all the advanced techniques and concepts that I use. I started implementing these moves into my turbo sitNgos and I won 1st or 2nd place 5 times in a row and counting. I usually make 1 or 2 and no more than 3 of these moves.
When using these moves you should consider the player, and be prepared to get called. You want to be making these moves when you are going to win more than you lose in the long run. You either win enough chips from doing this so that by the time you run into a hand you have gained enough chips, or you are either a favorite a coinflip or a slight underdog when you do get called.

Squeeze play method 1
This can be a powerful move against good players. There are a few methods to this. I’ll start with if someone raises and another person or 2 calls, the idea is that by reraising them here you indicate tons of strength coming over a reraiser. The initial raiser has to worry about the person who called. By this method you’re deciding that you don’t think the caller is strong, and you don’t think the initial raiser.

Method 2
Ok now this is if someone calls (limps) and another raises. This is usually more effective. Because the person who limped in has to be worried about a raise and a reraise, and for all he knows the raiser will be moving all in. He shouldn’t call unless he has something big.

Method 3
This one isn’t really a “squeeze play” but it’s the same principle. This is later on if someone limps in early position and you think he’s weak. The big blind should be about 200 at this point. You’re counting on the players thinking the early position limp in represents strength or concerned about a possible reraise all in. Making a big raise at this point over a limp in represents even more strength.

Raise and Go/Raise and option
A Raise and Go is throwing out a raise or reraise preflop usually from early position with the intention of moving in on the flop REGARDLESS of the flop.
Lets say the blinds are 50/100 blinds. You have pocket 7s, in the big blind, a pretty good hand. Someone calls from late position and the small blind folds. You want to raise because the blinds are good and you don’t want a hand like 82 hitting top pair on an 8 high flop. But you don’t really want to raise all in because at best you’ll be called by two overcards and it’s a coinflip.
Now, if your opponent has 2 overcards, he will hit the flop less than 1/3 of the time. (and if they do, you still have at least a couple outs) I would raise about a 1/4th 1/5th or 1/6th of my chips. Of my opponent’s stack or mine; whichever is lower. So if the Villian has 1000 and I have 2000 I’ll raise 1/5 of his stack or 200, maybe a little more. You will also hit the flop 10% of the time and given that you don’t you still have a chance of winning. Also your opponent might even be trying to steal your blinds and fold to a reraise preflop.
I know I’ll probably take down the blinds a few times, and when I don’t, I’ll be taking it down after the flop a large portion of the time. In a turbo unless I’m a big stack against another big stack, or on the bubble when someone else is severly shortstacked, I can’t really do anything but call an all in if I’m reraised. So I raise and my opponent just calls.
With a pocket pair against 2 overcards, you gain a lot more by doing this than getting it all in preflop. If they miss you pick up a lot more pots this way. If they hit you are really no worse off then if you were all in preflop. In addition, for all you know you’re up against pocket 8s, and your opponent sees an ace on the flop and folds. This is dangerous because you could easily be up against a higher pair and in that case when you raise you’ll be committing yourself and losing it all. Also, if you have 7s7c and the flop hits KQJ all diamonds you can be pretty sure the flop helped your opponent more than you and moving in would be suicide, but at this point you don’t have a lot of choice.
Now, some people might move all in regardless of the flop, but I believe this is a small mistake. If the flop comes 3 face cards like KQJ I’ll probably check fold. Sure you might be up against 88 or 99 and get them to fold.
If the flop is something like AQ9 I’ll probably check because the range of hands my opponent could have is much more likely to contain an ace.
If the flop comes 2 face cards KJ2 however, it’s a little different. Sometimes I’ll move in but in rare situations where I think I can still make the money I might check especially if they are all the same suit.
Also if my opponent is predictable, and the kind that will check if he doesn’t have a hand, and only bet if he has a hand, then I’ll check almost all flops. Then if he checks and it doesn’t look like the turn helped him, I’ll move in on the turn and take it down.
However, if my opponent is the kind that will check through a marginal hand like Q9 here, I’ll check it to the river. If my opponent has AJ and misses or 66 and I win, then that’s great. If my opponent has 99 I’ll be happy not to put another chip in, even if my opponent would have folded to a raise.
Now if there is only 1 or no facecards at all, I’m moving in for sure. If there’s a pair on board, even like QQT I’ll move in as well.
What happens if you hit your set? You should either check or bet, you want to get value out of the hand… If you bet I’d move in on the turn.
Now in rare situations if the flop is all undercards and you have QQ or better, you should get value out of it as well. You can move in on the turn. This is a situation you are most likely going to win. You are probably only up against 1 overcard in this situation. If you have QQ and King comes on the flop, I like checking through. Your opponent either has a king or he doesn’t. If you chose the raise and go, you really can’t get away from a hand like Queens…
If he doesn’t, he might bluff There’s probably only 3 cards in the deck at most that he can hit to win if he doesn’t, so unless the pot is real small, or I think I have a really good chance of folding and making the money anyways, I’m probably not getting away from the hand. My opponent will probably be more likely to make a continuation bet if I check with nothing, then to call with a hand I have beat if I bet. So I want to check and call if necessary. Of course if my opponent will bet if I check, but only call if I bet, I will bet the minimum on the turn and river to prevent myself from going all in.
Keep in mind that if your opponent has 2 overcards he will hit by the river about 1 in every 4 times. With this in mind, I would either move all or bet over a third the pot to make sure that if my opponent does call they’re making a big mistake.

Specifically how much to raise in raise and go
The key is to know your opponent and whether or not you want to be able to have the option to get away from the hand.
If you bet too much your opponent either will have too many chips invested and will be forced to move all in preflop or call after the flop regardless, or your opponent will fold hands that you have dominated preflop. If the flop goes completely wrong you can’t get away from the flop either.
If you bet too little, you are giving your opponent a chance to see a flop for too cheap, you aren’t getting enough value, and you may be letting too many hands in that you should be stealing from preflop (hands like J9 when you have 88 or lower).
If you think your opponent is likely to call an all in regardless of the flop, then you only want to be moving in on the flops where you think you’re ahead, so you should only raise a smaller amount, however this requires that you have a good read on the range of hands your opponent has.
If your opponent seems tighter post flop you can get a little more invested than usual because your opponent will fold enough alone to make the push profitable. However with the right player you can still raise a 5th and then just make a small bet, but against a player like this I play small pot poker unless I feel like I need to mix it up or make a big move soon.
If you have QQ, you’re probably not going to be able to get away from the hand after a preflop raise, even if the flop has a King and an Ace. Since this is a hand that’s good enough to get value out of it that you wouldn’t mind being all in preflop, I want to bet enough to get as much money as I can in the pot, but enough where I can still have enough chips to have a chance to get my opponent to fold after the flop if he’s got two overcards and he misses. You prefer he calls off a big portion of his stack before the flop and then that you just take it down. I’m a little less concerned about being up against 2 overcards with QQ, so I won’t mind too much if I get all the money in and get called, so I’ll raise as much as the Vililian will call.
With JJ, it’s EXTREMELY tricky. I want to see a flop, and I wouldn’t hate it if I had to get all my money in, yet at the same time I wouldn’t mind too much if I took it down now… This is not exactly a hand I can get away from in turbos, unless it’s the first hand and I play a small pot. If the flop is AKQ all the same suit and you don’t have that suit, it’s about the only that I could. So since most flops are fairly safe, I want to extract as much value as I can so that I can still get my opponent to fold after the flop. The only hands I’m really worried about being up against are AK, AQ, KQ, and these hands PROBABLY would raised preflop, so I can often use that information to my advantage. I actually like a very contrarian style with Jacks. For the most part I want to keep as many hands in as I can to get value, which is different then all other big hands. This way, I KNOW I’m beat if two overcards come, or if an ace comes and there’s a bet and a raise. If they have one over card the chances that they’ll hit is about 18%.
If I’m playing against an opponent who probably has 2 overcards, and I want to isolate, I’ll usually go for as much as a 5th of my stack here, and I can make the decision after the flop. TT generally fits into this category as well.
With Pocket 2s through pocket 9s, you want to be able to get away from the flop if it doesn’t turn out right. Your opponent will most likely at LEAST have overcards, maybe have an overpair. If you want to simplify things, you can bet OVER 1/4th of your chips, and move in on the flop. However, betting on the opposite side closer to 1/6th of your chips gives you the most options. You can get away from the flop, you can make a feeler bet, and you can bet for value if you hit. And it probably won’t take an all in bet to take it down. Simply betting between 1/3 to 1/2 the pot will probably do.
Now with AK through AJ. I don’t really like using a raise and go with this method. Although I’ll always have overcards, and if I hit, I can gain value from it, I like either all in if it’s late in the turbo SNG, or playing a small pot, early because I want to invite my opponent in if they have a weaker ace. If I have my opponent dominated, I will still get plenty of value out of it if I hit. If I miss I am willing to dump it. However if the blinds are 100/200 or maybe even 150/300 if I’m big stacked against another big stack, they are right at the point where they are valuable enough to try a steal but not big enough where I should be all in, and giving my opponents a chance to fold. If this is the case I’m raising about a 5th of my chips and pushing regardless of the flop. I may do this with AT as well.
Steal attempt gone wrong. Ok so you want to try to steal, but you need to plan on what you do if it goes wrong. Sometimes It’s read the flop and push based on that, othertimes it’s read the opponent and push based on how he acts, and check folding is also an option that is just fine. Othertimes, you may wish to check raise all in. I love making these sorts of plays OUT of position becase I can raise an amount that will give me the first chance to push, and I can also raise a smaller amount against an opponent who I expect to try to bluff, and check raise him all in on the flop. If I expect my opponent only to bet if he hit a pair, I will check and then push the turn, or fold to a bet. These moves depend on the OPPONENT, and are what makes my game so profitable, and undetectable. If my opponent is likely to bet when he has it and check/fold when he doesn’t, I have information. If my opponent will do the opposite, I have information. One opponent I will check raise all in if he bets, the other I will fold to a bet. On the turn, one I will check fold, and push the turn only if I hit on the turn if my opponent checks on the flop, the other I will push the turn UNLESS I hit, because if I do, I know my opponent doesn’t have a hand, and I can either bet small to induce a call, or check to induce a bluff…
If my opponents notice when I push strong and when I push weak, and use that info to get a read, I am winning big time, because they’re making the exact OPPOSITE decision that they should.
FLOP ODDS
Here is how you calculate odds… It really doesn’t need to be done, you can simply know a few of the odds and have a good understanding, but just in case you want to know how it’s done…
Given that your opponent has 2 live cards, here’s the chance that he hits a pair.
Situation Villian has AK. He has 3 aces and 3 kings in the deck. 6 cards total… You know what 2 of the 52 cards and you know these are not an ace or king. So with the first card there is a 6/50 chance that it contains an ace or king. Given that it misses, there is a 6/49 chance that it hits on the 2nd card and a 6/48 chance on the third card. The total of this is 6/50+6/49+6/48= about 36% If he has a pair, he can hit a set with 2 cards, so 2/50+2/49+2/48=
Minraise stealing
Usually at the 50/100 level or 100/200 it’s all in or fold, however most people know this, and they think you do too, so a minraise represents extreme strength. If I’ve pushed all in a few times, I might make a minraise, from the button, especially if the player on the blinds is tight, and especially if he sees a minraise as strong.
I’m more inclined to minraise with a marginal-fairly strong raising hand, that might be good, or might be a coinflip. Hands like K10, KJ, KQ, pocket 5s. It kind of depends on the opponent though. If I think they might move all in with me with any ace, then I’ll minraise with A9 or better.
You can usually throw in a random minraise and take down an extra blind or two that you normally wouldn’t. I like to mix up minraising and all in mid-later in the game, however I don’t like minraising very often. Occasionally you should minraise or limp with a bighand.
Stop and Go
Ok so now lets say an opponent is raising too often. You think your hand might be good or your opponent has an average hand. Your opponent has raised between a third and a 4th of your stack. You call and then push the flop. You can do this if he raises 1/12 of your stack, and do it with a small bet, or you can do this with 1/6th of your stack and get a read on the flop if you think you know what your opponent might have.
The other time I would stop and go is if I don’t think my opponent is that strong, and he has minraised me later in the game. I have the potodds to call, and if I fold I’m going to be forced to move all in within the next few hands or call an all in on the big blind the next time around.
This should usually be done when the blinds are in the 150/300 and up
Limppush
Well in the later stages of the tournament, If you pick up Aces Kings or maybe Queens, you might want to limp in and push to the reraise. Because the blinds are huge, your opponent isn’t going to have the right implied odds, and some opponents might push this spot if they think you’re weak. But if they just call and you see a flop, it’s fine. Of course, I’ll also limp in with a weak hand and push if I hit, and I’ll also limp-bet with a weak hand as a sort of “delayed blind steal”.
Limp and Go
Obviously the limp-push won’t always work because you may not be raised… Also, there are a few situations later in the tournament when it’s better to limp in with the intention of moving all in on the flop.
Say the blinds are 150/300 and you already have moved in on the big blind twice and/or you think he’s the type of opponent to call you with a marginal hand. It folds to you but instead of moving all in you limp in. Your opponent checks and you move all in on the flop. Now you might even do this with pocket 7s 8s 9s or 10s because it holds up well against a random hand to the flop, and the blinds are big enough where your opponent might decide to call you with ace high or 2nd pair, or top pair on a low board.
Now another time you can use this move… 100/200 and you pick up QQ in first position. Now you could move all in here, but you could be losing out on some value. So you limp in hoping someone raises. No one does. Now the flop comes J 10 2 with 2 spades. Well Queens is a good hand and you have no reason to believe that it’s not the best hand, but you don’t want your opponent to catch a card. You also want to disguise your stop and go hands, so an all in represents enough strength. Plus if your opponent has top pair, he’ll probably call.
Hopefully your opponent sees you moving in on quite a few flops and gets impatient and calls you. But either way, by being aggressive like this both with hands and without, it gives your opponent a lot of troubles, and it’s very difficult for them to play you.
This move should be done when you have a strong hand and attempted a limpraise but it failed, if you have a small pair early on in the tournament you can limp and try to hit a set, and shove all in with a huge overbet, or you can make it later on with AK if you feel like mixing up your game and you don’t want to move all in preflop. This is especially useful if you are 2nd in chips on the bubble or close to it with AK or AQ, and the blinds are so huge that if you raise, you’d be forced to call an all in, but if you limp, you can make sure that the chipleader doesn’t play the hand, and then the pot is big enough to push, knowing that you probably have 6 outs if your opponent calls with a pair.
All in
All in is a powerful move, it puts maximum pressure on your opponent. However, I want to emphasize that the stop and go and limp and go and raise and go don’t always have to be an all in bet.
Everyone knows what moving all in is, but when to do it is important. This section will talk about the science of moving all in on sitNgos. The reward for doing this is pretty low until the blinds are at least 50/100, but anytime after this you want to basically do it every hand unless your opponent is so short stacked that he’s already all in.

Hands to make moves with
If you’re going to steal you can basically do it with many hands, however you want to avoid doing it with hands like A9 or lower, KT or lower. The hands that are going to call you, will dominate you. Now if you think your opponent is going to call with hands like JT, I would prefer to make a move sooner with ace anything or wait until someone else takes them out. Make moves with hands like 10-8 suited, 97, 56, 57 etc.
If you are the small blind and are up against only the big blind, you can really move all in on quite a number of hands. Same thing goes for big blind against small blind. You only have 1 hand to worry about, so you can push with A7 or higher. Even if your opponent plays perfect and calls with A8 or better, you’re winning enough blinds to make up for the time that they call and beat you. Because of this, you should actually push with a lot more, because your opponent WONT play optimally.
(List of hands to push with from 0-6 times the big blind 6-12 times the big blind and 12-18 times the big blind)
Down to 3
Down to 1
Using your IMAGE
1st +2nd level (blinds are 5/10 and 10/20)
Early On, the most important thing is that you don’t risk all of your chips unless you really have a hand. The time to accumulate chips is in the mid stages to Mid-later stages of the game. If you double up once steal a blind and double up again at this point you’ll easily be the chip leader.
Early on if they’re letting me see a flop and not raising at all preflop, but being overaggressive (betting too much) or overly loose passive (checking too much and calling big bets with mediocre hands), I’ll see a flop with any 2cards if I’ve got position, and some out of position.
If they’re overly tight after the flop I’ll wait till I have position, and it’s folded to me or with one limper and I’ll raise. I’ll also raise with a few more hands preflop in general and then try to buy pots by betting a third to a half the potsize. I’ll usually check/fold the turn unless I get a hand, and I may bet the river depending on the board and if I think I can make my opponent fold.
Basically try to gain chips but if you just maintain here, or even loose a few its fine.
If the table is aggressive preflop you want to
In sitNgos, you can’t really be raising a set amount like 3 times the big blind. You want to accumulate chips early when you have a hand, and decide before the flop how aggressive you’re going to get. I use stop and gos and raise and go methods almost once per level in sitNgos except for the first level or two. If I’m raising
As the blinds get up there you’re going to have to start getting aggressive
()
Later on I can wait for a hand and just move all in and take all of the blinds or get called and win a huge pot, I can make small-medium raises and then move all in on the flop. I can make small raises and take the blinds and back away if I get called or raised. Some of this has to do
**When you get headsup with the blinds that big there is almost a formula for winning these things headsup. However the formula is based on playing against an opponent who plays optimally. This means not knowing what hands you will push with, but knowing the range of hands that you will push with. You can make adjustments. If you think the Villian is going to call too much, then move all in on a few less hands since you can afford to wait.
If you think your opponent will fold more hands, you can push with more hands. If your opponent will check his big blind everytime without a hand then you can limp with a few hands.
Don’t make too many adjustments though, because if you go all in with everyhand you are in trouble if you get called, and if you don’t go all in enough, you will get blinded down to nothing.
I might try limping in with powerful hands.
Gap concept
Maximum all in strategy-This is against the optimal opponents who only call if they are enough of a favorite for them to gain equity by calling vs your range of hands, since losing a hand on the bubble will guarantee that they win nothing, and since winning an all in doesn’t guarentee they win twice as much, it is foolish for your opponents to call, unless they are a big favorite.
Medium all in- This is if your opponent waiting until he has a better than average hand and will call an all in if he thinks it’s best, but he will not consider what he’s really risking by calling.
Minimum all in strategy- This is if your opponent is going to call with any two cards.
Keep in mind this strategy
Anytime you are favored over a random hand you raise all in
Anytime you are
Anytime you are raised all in you should be a favorite over your opponents range of raising hands…. This usually means having
Calling gets tricky and it depends on your opponent. I like calling and then raising all in after the flop if I think
Turbo SitNgo Mastery
Introduction
Early on- This is the 1st and 2nd level of the tournament
Early Mid stages- 3rd level blinds are 15/30 30/60
Mid stages 4th level blinds are 50/100
Mid-Late stages 5th level blinds are 100/200
Late stages 6th 7th and 8th level blinds are 150/300 250/500 400/800
Introduction
Its actually pretty easy to win these things once you figure it out. All you have to do is play any kind of survival methods early on, then change your hand range based on your chip stack in the middle, and get selectively super-aggressive in the mid-late stage.
In TurboSNGs, you can still adapt to the table. The difference is you have less chips so you have to think ahead of time and know if you’re committed to this hand or not. Your margin of error is greater, but your reward for making a move is greater. The same things goes for your opponents so if you see them making moves too often, or playing too tight, you can pick out those players.
Turbo Sit N Gos are a different skill set. It involves either knowing the math and distribution of cards, or having the experience and knowing just a few principles and so you have a feel for the game. Fortunately, I will teach you everything you need to start mastering sitNgos.
The best part about these are that you can play multiple sitNgos at the same time and you can play tons of sitNgo tournaments in just a short period of time. If you learn how to master these, you can make money even faster by playing turbo sitNgos.
I usually still adapt to the table in these things, however adapting to the blind size and chipstacks is also important.

1st +2nd level (blinds are 5/10 and 10/20)
Early on if they’re letting me see a flop and not raising at all preflop, but being overaggressive (betting too much) or overly loose passive (checking too much and calling big bets with mediocre hands), I’ll see a flop with any 2cards if I’ve got position, and some out of position.
If they’re overly tight after the flop I’ll wait till I have position, and it’s folded to me or with one limper and I’ll raise. I’ll also raise with a few more hands preflop in general and then try to buy pots by betting a third to a half the potsize. I’ll usually check/fold the turn unless I get a hand, and I may bet the river depending on the board and if I think I can make my opponent fold.
Basically try to gain chips but if you just maintain here, or even loose a few its fine.
If the table is aggressive preflop you want to
In sitNgos, you can’t really be raising a set amount like 3 times the big blind. You want to accumulate chips early when you have a hand, and decide before the flop how aggressive you’re going to get. I use stop and gos and raise and go methods almost once per level in sitNgos except for the first level or two. If I’m raising
As the blinds get tup there you’re going to have to start getting aggressive
()
Later on I can wait for a hand and just move all in and take all of the blinds or get called and win a huge pot, I can make small-medium raises and then move all in on the flop. I can make small raises and take the blinds and back away if I get called or raised. Some of this has to do
(Zee Justin aggression)
When you get headsup with the blinds that big there is almost a formula for winning these things headsup.
Anytime you are favored over a random hand you raise all in
Anytime you are
Anytime you are raised all in you should be a favorite over your opponents range of raising hands…. This usually means having
Calling gets tricky and it depends on your opponent. I like calling and then raising all in after the flop if I think
Online Propping Guide

Unfortunately this guide won’t tell you the actual name of the websites. Websites don’t want to have a reputation for having a bunch of props playing. However, if you are interested in becoming a prop for one of these sites simply send an email to
^{mike4pokermoney@yahoo.com}^{and let me know that you are interested.}

^{^{With Top pair}}
^{^{With Flush Draw}}

^{^{Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{Now of these, I don’t like any that doesn’t bet the flush on the river when you have a flush draw. This might work against an aggressive player, but when you have position and they check to you, you have to bet.}
^{That leaves these:}

^{^{With Top pair}}
^{^{With Flushdraw}}

^{^{Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{Well I don’t like betting everything, because when you decide to change things up and suddenly you don’t bet, what have you really accomplished? You might do this against a tight player, but it’s rare to find a player that’s only tight on the river. If he called you on the flop, he’ll probably call you on the river as well. And although it might allow you to steal a few later, I don’t like to ONLY bet the flush and nothing else because you are giving away that you have a flush and you aren’t able to steal anything when you don’t. I may use this one when I think the player I’m up against will call anything because then I know I’ll get paid off when I hit, but keep in mind the exception I’ll make against these players is I will check until the river. Even so, I would also want to bet when a nonflush card hits because my top pair is probably good.}
^{So Now I have these left:}

^{^{Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}
^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}
^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}
^{^{Bet flush on river}}
^{^{Bet non flush on river}}

^{If I bet everything but a missed flush, the one problem is that I’m giving away that I have top pair if I bet when no flush card came. This is okay to do at first because people probably won’t figure it out right away since it looks like a bluff. This method is preferred in position if you bet the flop then check the turn. That way it looks like you semi-bluffed or just bought a free card, missed your flush and followed up with a bluff.}
^{Then if you think people have you figured out, the way to switch it is to}
What you should really be doing is mixing up this sort of thing in all aspects of your game. You want to be able to represent at LEAST another hand at ALL TIMES. Just like in a previous example I gave, if you only play from early position with aces, you can play suited connectors as well to add some value and represent a different hand than you have.
You always here the pros talk about how they knew another pro had either nothing at all or a monster… I believe the pros do this sort of thing all the time whether they have consciously given a lot of thought to it or not. I know that Dan Harrington will raise from 1st position with suited connectors every once and awhile to mix things up.

AVOIDING TILT
This might seem shocking to you, but I believe it is possible to completely conquer tilt. Now of course tilt is sort of on a spectrum, you can get tired and make minor mistakes and not really be “on tilt” but your quality of play is reduced, and if it continues, you will get frustrated and unless you do something, you eventually will go on full blown tilt. I believe you can catch it the moment you feel a little tired, or get a little bit upset at a bad beat.
Now, everyone occasionally gets tired and makes a move that they normally wouldn’t at sometime… So lets say for whatever reason you think you can outplay a guy and you bet on the flop, check on the turn, and then you decide to take one last stab at it and bet with some marginal hand on the river that you shouldn’t even be in with in the first place. Now he reraises and you call out of frustration. The cards are flipped over and he shows top pair, crushing the pair of 6s that you caught on the river. Perhaps later you put a short stack all in, or you call all in and you’re dominated. Perhaps you have JJ and you flop JKK and you try to slow play it and you check on the flop and turn and the river are both Kings and suddenly you can’t even beat the board and can only hope your opponent doesn’t have a Q or an Ace and the best you can do is a split!
What do you tell yourself when these things happen? Do you say, “ARGH! I’m so stupid!”, then pull the hair out of your head? Do you look for excuses of why you didn’t win more or lose less, or why you let the guy catch that card on you? I used to think like that, but guess what, no amount of ridiculing yourself or anyone else can make you a better player… No one in the world can make themselves frustrated enough to make things magically better. So rather than say to yourself “I’m so stupid” why not ask yourself a question that can get your mind immediately focused back on the game and playing good. Some people may ask a question like “Why does this always happen to me?” or “Why didn’t I win?” But while these are momentarily helpful, there is a better question to ask. Its questions like “How can I use this situation to make me better”, or “what can I learn from this situation”, “How can I make myself more disciplined?” It’s these sorts of questions that not only get your focus back on the game, but also will make you a better player in the long run. All of these questions are constructive; they will cause your brain to seek to IMPROVE your game, and STAY FOCUSED on the game. If you’re constantly asking yourself helpful constructive questions, it’s very difficult to go on tilt. If you just made a bad play, and you’re thinking what players think of you at this point, and how you can exploit that; If you ask yourself questions like “how can I use this to my advantage”, your focus is on useful information such as players perception of you at this point, and how you should change your game. These are just a few of many things that most people will instantly ignore at this point. And the first sign of tilt is when you start ignoring critical information such as what people think of you. As your emotions distract you from necessary information, your judgments then get affected, and as a result you play worse. And the longer you go without calming yourself down and getting a grip on these things, the worse you will play and the close you will get until you just go on tilt.
If you are asking yourself these questions, and you still go on tilt, you need to learn to make a habit of SLOWING DOWN… you have plenty of time before every move, use it. The most useful thing you can do before every hand is to THINK. If you still are going on tilt, you have bigger problems. It all boils down to self-mastery and self-control. And I’m not saying that to criticize you, I’m saying that because you need to understand that while it may not be your fault that you lost a given hand, you are 100% responsible for it. What I mean by that just because it isn’t your fault doesn’t mean you couldn’t avoid it. It doesn’t mean you won’t be able to learn something from it and not let it reoccur. If someone saw a car coming at them and they got hit, it might not be their fault, but that doesn’t mean if they were paying attention that they couldn’t avoid it. So are you mad that the event happened? Or are you mad at yourself that you were unable to adapt? Because see we only learn to feel bad in these kinds of situations, and it’s ridiculous, but see, we always do the best with the resources that we as humans have and those that we have learned how to use. But the more you think about it, the more you’ll find that there are MORE resources, and that you can really learn just how your unconscious mind can use your emotions to cause you to take action. It’s not causing you to feel bad because you’re seeking to hurt yourself, it’s because you’re seeking change. And if you make learning how to avoid losing those pots important enough, and if you make winning important enough, eventually if you ignore it long enough your emotions will get so strong that it will FORCE you to make a change to prevent that sort of thing from happening.
Guess what? You are completely in control of your attitude, your thoughts, your movements, and your actions. So maybe someone makes a horrible call without the odds to make the call, and catches the cards to beat you. First of all you want people making bad plays on you. You should be encouraging that type of play. Second of all if you believe you did absolutely everything right, why would you be upset?
So don’t go all Phil Helmuth on me because you making the right move didn’t work out. If it was meant to be a lesson to you rather then a chance to win so you could feel good, you better learn that lesson! Phil Ivey doesn’t get upset, he doesn’t talk a whole lot at the table, he doesn’t write books or talk on radio shows very much… He’s too busy WINNING! If only you could combine Phil Helmuth’s abilities with Phil Ivey’s winning attitude and focus.
The moment you shift your understanding to realize that you are responsible for your own action, the more you’ll understand that you are not angry at anyone else other than yourself. And the biggest thing you can realize is that our emotions are made to SERVE a PURPOSE… That Purpose is to HELP us; to GUIDE us. Everyone seeks to seek out pleasure and avoid pain, our emotions assist us to make the changes we need to in order to get back on track. Even the emotions that we consider negative are nothing more than a signal telling us that we need to take some sort of action. And the longer we delay that action that we need to take, the stronger the emotion gets. It’s not a coincidence that when our life is out of sync we don’t feel the way we want to. As I have said, emotion is usually telling us that we need to change in some way. And usually change either our procedure or our perception. The stronger the emotion gets, the more urgent it is that we make that change. So if you’re getting angry too often perhaps there’s some belief you’re holding onto that you need to change. It’s time to just let go of your ego and stop trying to control everything all the time. Don’t worry, you are not alone. Everyone gets upset about something. I used to feel like throwing the computer out the window at times, and I felt a lot of other so-called “negative” emotions. But they inspired me to find the path to a better life, as I learned so many of life’s valuable lessons. If I write another eBook in the future, it will be some sort of self-help book so I can share all of the valuable knowledge that I’ve learned.
…But back to staying in control of yourself. One thing that’s really helped me is to ask myself some questions. To try to connect and speak with the part of me that’s upset. I would ask myself questions like “why am I so angry?” I might answer with “because this guy just made a bad play and I did the right move and still lost” I would then respond with another question “Well, why does that bother me?” usually at this point the anger will fade away and I will answer with “Exactly, it shouldn’t, there’s no reason for me to let it, I’m better than that”. Now maybe it will keep going and instead I will answer, “because I deserved to win that hand and I didn’t” and then “what can I do to win next time?” “Nothing, I played the hand perfectly” Then “What are some positive things I can realize or understand to calm me down?” and then I’d start thinking of “Well, in the long run I’ll make money off of that play, I’m only upset because the money meant something to me” If I’m still upset, I’ll ask myself, “what do I need to change?” Because if I believe I played the hand perfectly and I’m still upset, that means it’s not the procedure that I need to change, but the perception. And if it’s the perception perhaps I’m believing that I played the hand perfect when I didn’t really, or perhaps I need to start looking at loosing pots as valuable lessons. Or maybe it IS my procedure and I need to lower the stakes so that the money doesn’t mean as much to me, or find some place or stakes to play at where people don’t make those kinds of plays.

This goes back to the picking on the tight players, and waiting for the loose players.
1 Spend a lot of time making a good title. (list all the benefits that your eBook has. List as many benefits that you’re offering, pick 1 or 2 that are the most powerful and turn it into your title. Benefits should appeal to emotion and desire.
The “How to title” How to make your golf game everything you ever wanted
“10 ways to” “20 secrets for”
2 Write as if you are speaking to ONE person Pretend you’re talking to your friend and teaching him how. Say you rather than I and me.
3 Use Short paragraphs, 1, 2, 3 try no more than 4 sentences, simple language.
4 Feel free to make specific examples and tell stories.
5 Use your eBook to drive traffic back to your site, promote your backend, and to sell your affiliate programs.
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Another reason why all in is something you want to avoid. People often say “you should take any situation where you are EV+ (in other words, when your move has a positive expected value. This is not true in anything other than cashgames. Sure there are situations where it is true, but those are few. Here’s the reasoning. Imagine as tournament where EVERYONE had a table that went all in every hand and a person that called. Aside from ties, the tournament field would cut in half every single hand.. If this were the case, it would be INSANELY foolish to risk it all assuming there are enough chips in relationship to the blinds that you are able to survive. You probably won’t be able to win this type of tournament, but that’s not what’s important, what’s important is the overall money value, not the overall chip value.   In a field of 5000, you’d have 5000 players, than 2500 then 1250 then 625, 313, 156, 78, 39, 19, 10, 5, 3 2,1…
If you could survive 12 hands, you’d win the 2nd place cash. Your opponents do all the work.. You see, in tournaments, folding may have 1/10thof the blinds in the middle negative expected value chipwize, but in terms of money, you gain $ev when you aren’t even in a hand, or even things happening at other tables.   You see, taking every single edge assumes that your opponents play optimal. This is hardly EVER the case. The worse the field takes –EV situations andmore risks, the more you should wait and fold +EV chpiwize ESPECIALLY if all your chips are at risk. In this style of tournament, one person will get lucky and win. Of course you will get second 99.9% of the time if you fold every hand. Even if you double up, your chances of winning aren’t that great anyways. It’s not going to make sense to risk all your chips because maybe you get 80% vs 20%, but 20% of the time you don’t even get 2nd, and 80% of the time you might have more chips, but you’ll still be outchipped 3000 to one once you get headsup for all your chips. So maybe your chances of winning “double” (although I am unsure about this, but even if they do, we’re talking your chance of winning the entire thing going from .1% to .2%, and your chance of taking 2nd going from 100% down to 20%, and every 80% risk you take it goes down again. True, if you only got money for 1st and nothing for second this might be the optimal strategy to take every +EV you can, but this is not the case. Now I’m not saying you want to be giving up small edges all the time, but in terms of risk management, you should be willing to give quite a bit ogf small edges up that force you all in, and the worse the field you’re up against is, the more of an edge you can give up. ..
But let’s give another situation. Lets say opponents are SO bad that they limp in, check to the river and go all in regardless of their hand. . Lets say the blind structure allows your chipstack to be so deep that the blinds start out so low that you have 1000 times the big blind, and they only go up by 1 chip every hour. Obviously you would do NOTHING other than klimp every hand and wait for the nuts. IF you could expect this play to continue, even if you go into the final table outchipped like crazy, and go headsup outchipped like crazy, you would win the tournament with this strategy. Ok, so obviously this is not the case, how often are you going to be able to limp and fold every hand until you have the nuts, and still manage to double up with the nuts. NOT OFTEN if EVER. HOWEVER, by employing a strategy that allows you to play LOTs of small pots, and take advantage of your opponents play by either keeping the pot small to the river when you think your hand is good increase the size of the pot to the degree that your hand is good, and if you think your opponent uis likely to have nothing place the smallest bet you can that will get him to fold, unless he’s drawing dead, or to runner runner or you have a monster. If this were the case and you could do this and have a slight advantage in the long run on every hand and never have to risk all your chips, you COULD only risk your chips with the nuts and win AS LONG AS you were able to gain at LEAST 1 big blind one small blind, and antes per every rotation without putting a significant amount of your chips at risk.. There certainly is a slight flaw with this line of thinking though, that is that making one big blind+smallblind+ante(or M) isn’t something that can ALWAYS be done with no risk. The large fieds will allow you to do this for awhile, but the blinds will catch up with your chipstack, and people will start to play aggressively. Let’s say BEFORE this point happens, people play extremely tight passive, and AFTTER this point happens people play extremely tight aggressive. What kind of advantage would it be to make sure you
A)    fold long enough to the point where you could survive to the tight passive stage.
B)     Accumulate enough chips at that point so you could either have enough chips to be able to fold until the point where you can steal a bunch of hands or have enough chips where you can afford to call the shortstacks all in without risking much of your stack.
C)    Make it to the point where the blinds are big and you can steal with minraises (and if not bet a third of the pot on the flop and if not get away from the hand) with enough chips to be able to have enough chips to survive the times that people move in on you enough to get away from and still have enough to go back to stealing so long as you still on average accumulate 1 BB per round or more.
D)    Only have to risk all of YOUR stack when there’s 2 tables left, but still have to move all in at this point, however since the blinds and ante’s are so good and you get a double up+ your blinds and antes+whoever limped in, a blindsteal(if not called) is WAY more valuable (as is chip position over others), and even if you were able to maintain your chips and nothing more to this point, you need lless “double ups” since you get a doubleup PLUS the blinds and antes. However, almost ALWAYS if you make it this far, with or without being all in, you will have MORE chips than you had before so every double up means WAY more than it did in the beginning
E)     Have to survive 4 coinflips at the final table(with you having a slight advantage) to be able to be in a headsup position to win, but if you DON’T survive those 4 coinflips, you still cash in top 10 money, and if you surivvve the first 1 but no others you’re top 5, and if you surive the first 3 you’re top 3 money and if you survive the 4th you’re headsup, basically even in chips, and if you’re the better headsup player, lets say you have a 55% chance to win.
In a field of 5000 players, how much of an advantage would this player have over a person who does an “all in or fold style, shoving in anytime he has +EV (IF CALLED)the following.
A)    wins a double up as a 60/40 favorite
B)     wins another double up as a 80/20 favorite
C)    blinds down but then wins the blinds to put him at about where he was.
D)    Wins another double up as a 80/20 favorite
E)     Blinds down for awhile
F)     Doubles up as a 60/40
G)    Sits tight on the bubble to make the money.
H)    Is forced to go all in after the bubble but everyone else is MUCH more willing to call and seems to blind down and blind down and has to push in a lot or blind down to half his stack before doubling up with the best hand, or call off his chips hopeing he’s at least a coinflip.
I)       Goes all in early in the final table
J)       Sits way back as he gets blinded WAY down 5 handed
K)    Folds his way to 3rd place and has to win 3 more double ups before he’s heads up
To Simplify things, lets assume that the 2nd player is able to MAINTAIN chips… and lets assume that EVERY single time he gets it all in as a 80% favorite. This is a radical assumption in itself if they play with that kind of style… But How many doubleups are needed in a 5000 person tournament? Well if you start at 1500 in chips, 1500 times 5000 is 7.5million. It would take 12.5 doubleups!
So basically you would have to surive 13 all ins to win the entire thing. What are your chances of doing so? As an 80% favorite you would have to take .8*.8 (13 times). You would have a 4% chance of winning. What about someone who does the first strategy as only a 55% favorite? They not only have a better chance of winning (at 5.%), but they have a MUCH MUCH better chance of not only gaining experience, and learning how to increase their future ROI, but they also will make the money MUCH more, and they will finish 2nd, and 3rd and 4th and 5th a LOT more… YOU tell ME which one’s more valuable.
Some might think that this is improbable, or impossible.. One of them is MUCH more possible than the other, and that’s the 2nd method. The reason being, with THAT sort of strategy, you will hardly EVER be BOTH able to get your money inm as a 80% favorite AND still be able to maintain chips between double ups…. HOWEVER, if you play like the FIRST method, you will.    The first method IS VERY doable. In fact, you’re more likely to be able to get a more deadly combination of accumulating chips, and finsing a spot where you have a set up against a pair and you are 90+% to double up, or you hit a flush on the river and you are 100% to double up against your opponents set.   Or you flop a straight against an overpair. And if you can find the tight opponents late in tourneys, you can often steal and steal again. You can make a move while the other players sit back when it’s short handed during the final 3, 2, and final table.   You literally can play a style where you get a small amount into the pot, and keep the pots small and either chop away at them, or play them to the river without getting too much chips in (without a big hand) and you can continue to win small pots, OR you can find a table that will fold a LOT of bets on the flop, and a LOT preflop, and you can just steal them blind. You can virtually play a strategy that makes you INVINCABLE early on, with NO chance of busting out. Then once you have chips the doubleup means that much more. What if instead of the player in the all in 13 times example was only 70%/30% still a very difficult feat? You’d have a 1.8% of winning it all. Now what if the player with the all instrategy had their chips decay by 10% before every doubleup as a 80% favorite? Well now they’d need 15 double ups to win.   So they’d have a 2.8% chance of winning as a 80/20% favorite everytime, and a 1% chance of winning as a 70/30% fav everytime.
But realistically the decay is MUCH greater as the tourney goes on. The player that plays that style will not only need significantly more doubleups, but he will also be forced to get in MUCH less profitable situations late in the tournament, taking coinflips at around the sametime the player with the smallpot style will have to as well.
And this IS realistic. You KNOW without a reasonable doubt that players will play TIGHT on the money, allowing you to accumulate chips like crazy. You KNOW that without a reasonable doubt that AFTER the money people will finally go all in very often and unless you’re ready to risk your chips, you’re going to have to sitback, and you KNOW that after you survive that part, without a reasonable doubt people will play tightaggressive in the sense that they will play a “pushfold” type of mode (some will be looser than others, but for the most part you will be able to bet 2.5X the BB and take it down1/4 of the time, and 1/3rd of the time that you just get called you will be able to take it down on the flop. And I KNOW without a reasonable doubt that it is possible to avoid all ins and still accumulate chips and put yourself in a position to win tournaments. Playing this style allows you a VERY good chance in surviving supersatellites . I’ve often calculated my chances of qualifying given the hands I’ve been all in with, and it’s usually as high as in the 30% range in fields of 4500 when you need to place top 30 to win.
Now you WILL get set at tables where they’re loose aggressive, and you really can’t do much other than either wait for a hand, or if you have enough chips and good implied odds to call with a few speculative hands (suited connectors, small paris and suited gap connectors) and try to flop the nuts. But for the most part, your chips WILL dwindle, but it’s okay, if you can survive to the bubble, depending on the players, you should be able to accumulate a LOT of chips here and put yourself in a position where you can WAIT for a hand while everyone else goes crazy, and survive to the point where you can make some steals.
EVEN IF you CAN get your money in as an 80% favorite consistently, and EVEN IF you decide for whatever reason that this method is better, you need a way to be able to maintain your chips until that point, and in most tables, small pot poker, is the way to do that. Scotty Nguyen is sone of the most consistant players out there. And he finished 9th in the most recent main event. How? By never being all in without the nuts, and rarely ever calling someone else’s all in without being a significant stack, compared to them AND having the best hand like top set (against a straightflushdraw at best)
Phil Helmuth is a player that ALSO is consitantly at final tables… Guess what, he plays small pot poker at certain stages of tournaments as well. He ALSO makes some of the biggest and best laydowns. He probably is even better than someone with style1 because at the final table even he can win without being allin, however he struggles when he’s at the table late in tournaments with Hoyt Corkins and Mike Matusow style players that at this stage force opponents all in and play big pots. But Mike Matusow is actually one of the players that also is known to do a lot of trapping and playing small pots as well, although he switches it up and makes great reads and relies heavily on them and makes BIG moves when he has a read. He will eat a tight table ALIVE, and often have people move all in on him or call his all in on the flop when he has top set and they have a pair. Mike is a combination of both styles, he will fold a 60/40, however he might push a 40/60, but he’ll also push in with the nuts and as a 60/40 and with aces preflop so opponents can’t really call him out because they’ll often be wrong if they do. When it comes to being the aggresser, Mike might take unnecessary risks by overbetting the pot HUGE moving all in on a flushdraw with MAYBE an overcard if it’s good, but this will often set his opponents up and allow himself to gt paidoff BIG. His strategy isoften very inconsistent, but very powerful as well. As you may know, Mike Matusow plays soley to win, andI agree that if you need to win, you should play similar to the way he does.
But for the most part, you can take 85% of his game, and forget the part about shoving in with some of the hands he does, and avoid those risks, and you will probably have a better chance than anyone other than maybe Helmuth to survive and end up going deep.
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People pass up FAR too many edges without realizing it, and they take WAY too many “edges” when they really aren’t. This is most true with novices. There are two types of novice players that pass up edges and turn their edges into small ones. There is the tight player that folds too many hands, and the loose player that plays too many. Playing too loose isn’t bad as itself, at least preflop… But novices don’t know when there hand is good and they are either too tight or too loose on the flop.   (oor too aggressive against the wrong players or too passive against the wrong players.
Here’s some examples.
If a tight player thinks there is ANY chance (or at least a very good chance) of their opponent having a better hand, they will NEVER limp and acertinly NEVER call araise. There’s a serious problem with this. Thee STRONGER your opponents hand the HARDER it is to get away with it after the flop. A good player will limp or call raises with 67suited if they have enough chips. If they hit they can get paid off if their opponent is strong. If they Miss they can risk very little in determining if their opponent is strong or weak and steal.On the reverse side, novices misplay their aces. They either don’t get the pot big enough and are willing to call any all in on the flop turn or river, they let their opponents in for cheap and can’t get away from the hand, or they play too passively with them… While against certain fields it’s actually BETTER to keep the pot small knowing the entire field on average will go broke with top pair if you shove on the flop, however the good playerwill exploit this because they understand implied odds. I LOVE cracking aces because it’s SO easy to do. You might not hit often, but when you do people say things like “bad play” or “just my luck” They get angry, but they just don’t understand the kind of odds they’re laying you. Recently at the 2007 WSOP, a player raised it 400 with 50/100 blinds with KK. Scotty Nguyen on the big blind said “alright, just for you I’ll call.” The flop came 569. Scotty bet out saying “I think you got none of that, I’ll bet 900… And the player says “you think I got none of that? I’m all in. (trying to make it look like a bluff.) The thing is, he moved all in for over 21,000!! Scotty quickly called and turned over 78 and the opponent was drawing DEAD to runner runner. He said something like “it figures”. But here’s what his opponent doesn’t understand. Scotty only has to pay 300, yet if he hits his flop he’s getting 21k. Think about it, 300/21k is .14% so if Scotty has ANY two he can call here. , YES even with 27 he’ll hit 2 pair or better on about 8% of the flops. You have to realize that his opponent is going to have outs though. Even if itt’s only 2 outs, you still have to factor this in.   lets say with any two his opponent has an average of 12% of winning. Well 100%-12% is 88%. So you actually want to take 88% of his implied odds, because even when you’re right, your opponent can suckout. So 88% of 21k is about 18,500 but 300/18500 is still less than 2%. However, unless your implied odds are tremendous like they are here, I still would recommend that you not make these plays unless you have your opponent outchipped. If you had 27 in the example, and you flopped 279 lets say. Well your opponent now has 5 outs(two kings and 3 9s) , a 20% chance of hitting one of those outs, and on the turn he’ll probably pickup another 3 outs and now he’ll STILL have about a 16% chance of hitting. Most of the time, you’d just be wasting chips trying to hit, and when you do hit, you MIGHT not get paid off. I’m more likely to make this move against an opponent who’s preventing me from playing small pot poker, or chop away at small pots and steal blinds. The benefit is certainly greater than it would be if it were an opponent who played horrible and telegraphed his hand, or without a big hand he just check folded all the time. However, I can call a raise with having a little more room against a player who is going to just check, or make that kind of play with AK even if it misses. So If you’re going to play your aces, you can shove all in and that’s actually a much better way to play them than people think. OR you can play a big pot and put at least 20% of your stack in preflop and form then on it doesn’t matter HOW you play it, there’s no way people can exploit it… And THEN there’s playing at least 14% of your stack in preflop then pushing all in on the flop. There’s variations of this, but I usually wouldn’t do anything else because playing the turn and river means playing like 13% before the flop 4% or more after the flop, and shoving all in on the turn, but this way you commit so much of your chips, if someone goes all in on the flop you’re going to want to call them.
The final way is to play a SMALL pot, which is good if you have a LOT of chips in front of you, or you’re at a very aggressive table and anticipate a preflop raise so you limp in, but people happen to just limp behind. Well if you get called, or maybe make a small raise or call a small raise with aces in position. This is probably the trickiest way to play aces, but it also can be VERY dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing and you can’t get away from a ahnd. .You can also play based on your specific opponents, knowing that they’ll call top pair all in, but this requires a lot of skill as well.if you play a small pot against a very good opponent, or tight/passive opponent, you’re going to have to keep it small and be able to get away from an all in bet, andget away from dangerous flops, or at least keep it small by check calling, or throwing out small bets oOp if you have the type of opponent that’s just going to call if you bet, but bet if you check.    Playing small pots with aces will force you to make difficult decisions, but will usually give you the best chance of survival and best risk/reward ratio, but unless you are VERY good, this can backfire and cost you TONS. .I HAVE folded aces after the flop more than a few times in a situation where it was more often than not beat. In a multiway pot it’s usually the easiest to get away from with a bunch of action against opponents that usually don’t show that kind of action, and suddenly it’s raises reraises and calls. A KQJ a QJT a JT9 suited or 678 suited or anything like this where you don’t have the nut flushdraware flops that you can easily get away from. I most likely will just shove in with aces, but if my opponents are overly passive, or overly aggressive, or overly tight (and predictable), or overly loose (after the flop), I may play a small pot, as long as I have a good understanding of all my opponents that potentially will be in the hand.   Shoving in with AA can STILL get you in a position with 90% to double up if someone calls with AAk or AQ or A anything preflop… , but other than that, you will be a 80% favorite, 76% if they have like 67suited.   Ideally you can play a small pot with aces, and have your opponents play very passively and bet based on the confidence that you have the winning hand. If you flop quads you can get whatever sort of bet you think they will call. If you flop like 27K, you know there are no straight possibilities and unless someone has 27 or 2K or 7K, you only have to worry about someone having a set.   Basically you can bet an increase in the potsize to the degree that your odds of winning by the river is. This is true with any hand. , but don’t become too predictable if your opponents will pick up upon it, unless you are going to be able to reverse it later and bet strong with nothing and small with something, but if you were going to do that, I’d do the opposite order. Start by overbetting a bluff and valuebetting a goodhand, until you think your opponents should have figured it out. Now you can get payed off by moving all in on the river with the nuts (if you think your opponent has any kind of hand), and you can just make small bets on the flop and take down a LOT of pots without risking much.
So by not playing 56 suited you are pasing up an edge. Sometimes, at the right tables you are passing up an edge simply by not playing virtually ANY hand on the button, either because your opponents give you SUCH great implied odds, or your opponents fold too often to small betss, OR a combination of both where your opponent pushes big on a bluff, and bets small with a big hand and ignores potential draws.
On the otherhand, if you are misplaying aces, you are actuallyputting your opponent in a situation where he can play cocrrectly and turn your +expected value into negative.
The “hidden” way a player passes up an edge is by risking too much on only a slight edge, when the field plays poorly. This is very controversial, but think about it. If players are going to take unnecessary risks, you’re going to be able to finish deeper without playing a hand, and you’re going to be able to play the entire tournament without having to put yourself at risk with only a slight edge. You’re going to be able to chop away at every pot. You’re going to have players move in on you with the nuts, your “future expected amount of +EV situation is an “opportunity cost” that you give up to the degree in which your chances of getting knocked out are. This probably sounds confusing to many so I’ll try to explain it. If during the rest of the tournament you were to fold and you are expected on average to accumulate say 10,000 more chips before your next potential all in, by calling an all in early in the tournament with a 55% chance to win, you gain 1500 55% of the time, and LOSE out on the ability to accumulate 10,000 chips before your next potential all in. then again, if you win, you will also accumulate that 10000, so you might say that you win 11,500 55% of the time, and lose 10,000 the other 45% of the time but this is incorrect. Even if your odds are the SAME on your next coinflip (although since we’ve established the field is weak, it’ll probably be much better), you also miss on the opportunity to double up should you get knocked out that 45% of the time, and by the second time you try to double up, your risk of being knocked out is twice as great. So
Situation 1:
Double up from 1500 to 3000 accumulate 10,000 more chips 55% of the time
OF the 55% that you survive, you double up 55% of the time again
Leaving you with a 30.25% chance to make it to 26000 and a 70% chance to be done.
(.3025*26000=expected value of 10890)
Situation 2
PASS on the double up from 1500 accumulate 10,000,
Then you take the double up

55% of the time you will make it to 23000
(.55*23000=expected value of 12650)
NOW…
IF you are a winning player who can accumulate chips by just chopping away, stealing blinds and taking down pots with small bets, and playing it till the river without getting much in the pot, and all of this, you will be able to accumulate chips without getting knocked out. IF you happen to be wrong and maybe find yourself at a table that you can’t do this with, or after awhile you can’t manage to keep up THEN by that point the blinds are big enough where taking that 55% coinflip will STILL put you in a better position chip wize than you would with your first double up.You might get a raise and a call and pickup aces, but NOW if you HAPPENED to chip down more than you wanted, the BLINDS are still so big that you can go from 15X the big blind to 36X the big blind. Which although might be the same amount of dead money in the pot in terms of BBs, it represents a lot more chips as a percentage of your stack., and is a lot more significant. Or you might get called by 2 players because they THINK you aren’t as strong as you are because you’ve become short, and now you get MORE money in and a better EV because even against 2 opponents your odds are still over 70% to triple up.
EXAMPLE: at 1500 with 10 and 20 blinds a double up after a raise and a call might bring you from 75X to 156X.   HOWEVER, in terms of chips, if you can only tred water, and even if you happen to lose a little, if the blinds are 50/100, the   extra 6big blinds in the pot represent 600 chips.   Rather than going from 1500 to 3120, you go from 1500 to 3600. DON’T get me wrong, I am NOT saying you should sit around and wait for a hand, in fact, quite the opposite. I think you should chop away at SMALL pots whenever possible, but only taking small risks to do so. I think you should be willing to consider RISK management because it HEAVILY relates toyour overall value of a tournament. The earlier it is, the MORE willing to pass up an all in you should be. Later in a tournament, I am MUCH MUCH MUCH more willing to make a move. Whether Arnold Snyder is right about his theory about Harrington’s “M” being flawed is debateable. I THINK he may have something to it… If the blinds went up so dramatically that you KNEW that you were only going to have 100 hands to play, you could calculate that sayat a minimum in order to ensure survival you have to either be able to win 1 “M<” per round on average, or double up before you get to half your chips. If you only have 100 hands until you run out, some may incorrectly assume that at 50 hands they are at the half way point, but that may be incorrect as well due to the structure. However, lets just assume based on the number of rotation, and what the blinds will be you can only see 50 hands before you at minimum have to be all in, and all in (if you expect to be able to accumulate chips). Well then you know that you can expect at least 1 starting hand in the top 2% of hands. 1/50=.02 Unfortunately, waiting for a hand this strong becomes a mistake. EVEN IF you do get your opponent all in with that hand, you are not EXPECTED to double up 100% of the time. This is the flaw. However, if you KNEW you are going to get called, you COULD figure out an exact formula for which to move in with based on number of hands left. But there IS a few flaws in BOTH Snyder’s AND Harrington’s thinking. The “number of hands for survival” is more accurate based on the patience factor, HOWEVER there is LESS reward in moving in when the blinds are lower, and unless the risk is much more significantly less, it’s not exactly worth it… ALSO, the fact that at tight passive tables at which there will be very few raises preflop mean you get to see a flop without paying anything. If it comes down to bigblind smallblind headsup, in extreme situations as the big blind you will be able to check it down and win ½ times, so your # of hands left is actually TWICE as high as Snyder says. If on SB vs BB play, you ccan expect to get more money in before either taking it down or say at the river by having the best hand, or just can outplay your opponent, you can win more than 1 M without really doing much. Also, small blind play there are situations where it’s profitable to shove all in. Against the perfect opponent you can shove all in and be profitable. Against non perfect opponent you can shove in with other hands.   So I think although Snyder has a point in certain structures you don’t have as many moves, or as much time, and it’s often better to loosen your requirement earlier due to OTHER people and their zones, I think the fact that you’ll have either the potodds to call from SB and win enough to make enough of a profit to diminish the amount of “true hands left” without taking too much risk, and from BB play you might get a walk or win pots with little risk that the moves aren’t as necessary. Also, I believe many times playing just a bit tighter in the yellow zone (where Snider says you should be shoving) in many situations is actually better… it allows you to get away with more steals once the blinds DO go up. In these situations you still need to have your game open and be willing to make steals, but I often find that one SB error and then the blinds go up and I am FORCED to make a move when I am Most of the time GOING to get called. I’d rather not shove in when it’s folded to me if my opponents are limping enough, but not calling enough, It’s often MUCH better to just SHOVE all in AFTER a couple limpers, as you get more out of it… But again, to get away with it you need a TIGHT image as well. Rather than playing small ball, and rather than shoving to only pick up 1 additional M, youintend to shove after a couple limpers and pick up 2.5 M, and this means you can afford to wait and only shove with HALF the hands that Snyder suggests, and you’ll get a better payoff. And When the blinds DO go up, Many times allins are more likely to be called then the large bets as Harrington states against good players you should bet enough to commit your stack as they know you’re basically going to call an all in anyways and it indicates a little more strength like you want a call.
I agree with this. But if all this time being tight and you DO actually get a hand, with BIG blinds if you don’t manage to pick up many chips, not only are you going to get action with a big hand, but the blinds are MUCH more significant and are a bigger deal. After a raise and a call you shove in with aces, which is better, at 15X the big blind at 50/100 blinds, or at only 10X the big blind with 75/150 blinds? At 50/100 blinds, 15X the big blinds is 1500 chips. With a raise and a call, lets assume a 3X raise. You go from15X to about 36X more or less depending on if someone from the BB cals, or someone on th button calls, or of course both the raiser and the caller could call, but lets just assume there’s 6x the BB in deadmoney… But what about with 10X the big blind at 75/150 blinds? Well now you go from10X to 26X, but which is more? Actually both are, depending on who you ask. 26X 150 is 3900. 36X 100 is only 3600. Well lets face it, at 36X the big blind you have lots of play, but at 3600 when the blinds go to 75/150, you’re going to find yourself at only 24X the big blind where as folding and making LESS moves, but then blinding down and finally picking up a hand and pushing as only 9X the big blind after the action ACTUALLY leads to a better result then if you got the hand early, pushed in and doubled up and right afterwards the blinds jumped up. Obviously you can’t control when the hands come, but to me making a double up too early in a sense is taking the wrong kind of risk and essentially like running on a tredmill. But what’ my point is, is that I think Snyder’s arguments make sense, that the “true M” in terms of how many rotations you have left is often very incorrect, especially in turbo structures in looser games where all ins get called. However, due to the value of a blindsteal INCREASING, and the value of a double up INCREASING, and every double up at one level has an “opportunity cost” of missing out on the future EV (which is greater on the next level), and theAbility for you to be able to survive longer than snyder says without stealing due to the occasional walk, or BB vs SB play being an advantage to skillful players, and SB having the odds to limp at a table that lets you hoping to hit big, and things like this make some of the things less relevant.There is certainly more value in winning than coming in 2nd, but hypothetically, it takes MUCH more work to come in first, and much more risk. Coming in second hypothetically just means averaging 1M per rotation for the entire tournament. Obviously this will be higher early, higher on the bubble, and higher at stages where you have more chips, but lower towards the end, after the bubble, at aggressive tables, and at the final table, You obviously need to find a way to accumulate MUCH more than 1B per rotation on average to be able to sit and wait for situations where you are unable to steal without risking it all. But if overall the average is 1 BB per rotation for the entire tournament and yuou put yourself at risk very little, you can get 2nd place. You will manage to squeak into 2nd place without having much of a chance to win, but your chance of getting 2nd by using this method is greater if you manage risks and make taking the best risk/reward scenarios overall. I certainly think it is possible for MUCH of the tournament to play small pot poker, pick your spots and be selective aggressive, and there certainly are points in tournaments when I think it is correct to take HUGE risks. (calling all in with like QJ near the bubble in a tight table where just one maniac is raising every single hand, knowing if you take him out you’ll have MUCH more than the chips from winning the pot)
It’s funny, I see many sides of Snyder’s arguments, but I ALSO see some sides for the OPPOSITE being true.
=
Every football coach knows that you shouldn’t take more risk than you need to. If you could run the ball all game and win, there’s NO point in passing at all. If the score is still tied later in the game, both coaches will try to open things up and make more moves… Where as the leading team will do whatever they can to LIMIT the moves of the opponent. The idea is that by running the ball and controlling the clock, you give the opponent less time with the ball, and less time to make plays, you put more pressure on their defense and wear them out, and you also put more pressure on their passing game and force them to make a play through the air. The best coaches and teams run the ball well, and stop the run. They also are good at making plays at the pass.They see the ENTIRE picture and understand that the key to winning is tojust grind away at the first downs minimize risk and put your opponent in a position where he ahs to take the MOST risk, and that’s where you capitalize and win the most consistently.   However, if they reach a point where they know that running the ball isn’t going to work anymore, if something goes wrong or if there is a certain amount of time left, if their opponent scores, they know the pressure is going to be on them. So a good team runs as much as possible early, playing VERY conservative, and then if they deem necessary, they open up their game.
Baseball teams understand that same concept in a way. , only they are in it for the long hall of the entire season. They start with the pitcher that can do well consistently, they want to put themselves in a position where they can consistently defend the batters. At some point the pitchers arm weakens, the baseball team has less room to work with. Maybe he throws out his arm or gets soar. At various stages they must know when to put in another pitcher and take a risk on him so they can be back in a position to defend well. The game gets late and they really need to make something happen. These consistant pitchers grinding it way that have good indurance and consistant just aren’t going to get it done anymore. It’s time to gear up and put everything out there. It doesn’t matter if the pitcher is a little inconsistent and a little wild, it’s time to close out the opponents. Same thing with the pinch hitters coming in. You don’t need a guy that can get on base if you’re down, you need some guy that can swing for the fense, putting your team in a position to rally, get the momentum going, maybe STEAL a few bases and get in position to make the BIG play and win it all.
I hope you see how ALL of this is related to poker tournaments. The streaky inconsistent players double up early, but the consistant winners, they grind it away early, not risking much of there stack. They might get invovlved with a lot of blindsteals and bluffs at small pots as long as they think that grinding away (running the ball), will help them gain chips and not lose them (move the ball and convert well) in the long run. If they can steal blinds the whole game and not get involved with a big pot the whole tournament or all in risking illimination (win without having to pass and risk a turnover), why would they do anything BUT chop away at the small pots? Just as the good teams “know themselves and their opponents”, and when they need to start making a move, the good poker players have a sense for the current table(how opponents are playing in that quarter of play) as well as the entire tournament field of players and blind structure and how one performs over another. If they’re going to HAVE to make a move and go for the win, they know exactly win, but ideally they wait as LATE as possible to open up, unless a big pot leaves a high percentage of winning with VERY minimal risk, either in terms of the chips the players going to have to risk for a positive EV, or risking it all with the nuts and very few outdraws. (Think about a playaction on 2nd and inches when the Oline is winning the battle of the trenches leaving someone wide open deep downfield). A player may get shortstacked and have to make a play to get back in it, or open up a little to get in a position where he has more moves available, and so he has enough chips that he can continue to play small ball and open up his calling range on short stacks, or be able to make reraises without risking a big portion of his stack, or continue to play smallball without being in jepordy of becoming a short stack and having to wait for cards. ( A team may have to be aggressive to take the lead if he loses it, or may have a third down and long that he has to make a pass play to try to convert so he has ALL of his options available, run or pass, long or short; so he can continue to put pressure on his opponent by working the clock and forcing opposing offense in passing situations)
On the otherhand, this player knows that the earlier on in the game, the less chances they have to take, assuming they are the better player/team. (A Punt is acceptable early, and much better than risking a lucky tipped pass that goes for an INT and TD…)
A great poker player controls the size of the pot, and cares more about risk management (winning a small pot than risking losing a big one). Just as a great team controls the clock and cares more about time management and avoiding turnovers (winning the battle of field position rather than risking a turnover).
However, a goot team also knows exactly when to go after it bigtime. They grind away and grind away and set up their opponents, just waiting for their LBers to wear down, their safties to move up and the team to think run run run…
A great poker player does the same, grinding away at small pots, bluffing at smallpots, maybe even caling someone and folding, or calling to bluff on the turn or minraising opponents to bluff on the turn, maybe even SHOWING a bluff, but the point is, the player suddenly knows EXACTLY when to go after it and make the big bluff or the big all in, or play a big pot, to push their opponent. They don’t want the first down, the field position the clock management anymore, it’s time to go for the throat, the big play the touchdown. They have their opponent on their heels, just waiting for them to go on tilt and he STRIKES playing the big pot and all those small pots they took pays off big, all those bluffs they got caught in, whatever happened it payed off HUGE because now their opponent moves in and they got the nuts, or they take down a big bluff (or a big long pass downfield to cripple their opponents room to defend and put them in scoring range.). You see, not much is different in poker as iis in football, the lessons are there in everything. Metaphors and comparisons work because so many different things have the same pattern, the same human psychology and the same outmaneuvering aspect. If you have enough things similar, you can relate them, and know exactly how to dominate, sometimes they just make the picture more clear that’s already there, for example “rock paper scissors” is an Excellent simplification based on an observation that helps you get the message across.
How to play irrationally and baffle your opponents.
First I should mention you want to recognize patterns in their game and see if you can do anything to take advantage of it. If not, they are most likely a completely rational player and irrational things will baffle them. They will expect to only be trapped with AA or KK. Open this up at an aggressive table.
PREFLOP
A rational move is “punishing the limper”. Well punish the raise by liming with stronger hands and rarely raising. Then simply re-raise against their likely weak/steal attempt. They may end up with a hand, but you’ll usually win enough to make up for the times you’re up against a hand and you also may get a call with a much worse hand as they may think you have no hand and are attempting a resteal. You can also smooth call
Hands that should be used for this are generally
99
TT
JJ

QQ

KK

AA

AJ

AQ

AK
The best part about this is once people notice this, it allows you to resteal from early position later on when you have slightly lesser hands 77 66 55 AT KQs and if they don’t raise you can see more cheap flops.
You can also represent much bigger hands and be much more believable if you do this after busting someone with one of the top hands. Not only that, but you are getting more money in the pot.
If you’re all short rather than deep stacked in a tournament you maybe best just moving all in rather than reraising substantially which you may do if you are deep stacked
If you are significantly bigger stacked you probably just want to move them in. You have represented aces and it is difficult for them to call. If they are not a good player they will call with any pocket pair, and ace and KQ which you will have better than a coin flip or dominated. If they are a good player they will fold these hands and you will pick up a big pot. To more effectively represent aces you may also want to limp with AA KK and QQ. These are hands that you could just call with.
Also, if you already have trapped your opponent using this move you can go with alternative tactics. One of these is just min-raising, this works from all positions. It works the same if you are reraised, and it gets more money into the pot. Obviously you have to simply just call and minraise with other hands as well to mix things up.
Limping with these solid hands will allow you to limp with worse hands later without getting reraised. This becomes especially important if sometime you become shortstacked. Also another one of these tactics is raising big (5X BB) to isolate people headsup or take down the blinds. You usually want to do this to portray an image of pushing people around. If you are called you have the best hand, if you are raised you are probably beat.
Betting big should be used with hands that hold up well heads up like AA-77 AKs AQs AJs or AK. I would prefer not to do it with AA or AKs or AK (unless you think you will get called a fair amount and would get more money in this way) since your hand will hold up well against multiple players as well. AQs or pocket pairs would probably be the best. If you are going to do it with Ajs, you must do it with stronger hands like AK KK and QQ as well.
You generally want to see flops or go all in with the best (dominating) hand if you can get called. I prefer min raising. You may only win 50% of the hands with 3 people in the pot with KK or QQ, but you will make a significant amount more. If you get AJ to fold to your JJ you will be missing out on a lot of money if a J hits. Same goes for KQ with KK QQ with QJ, ect.
If you soft play aces you have to be aware of maniacs. If you haven’t seen any, and suddenly go against an all in you may need to fold. Since this method of play doesn’t take much to double up, it shouldn’t hurt you. Plus you are getting payed like 5:1 all the way through when you get 1:2. Of course if you are getting payed 2:1 heads up and can get more money in this way, since your odds are much better one-on-one you may want to just get as much money in as you can. Taking the best longrun payout isn’t worth it as you can’t continuously get aces. Since the odds are favorable either way, you simply want as much money in as you can. With all things equal, you want less people. If you can get approximately the same heads-up as you could multipot go with the heads-up.
Soft playing aces takes more skill. Although you are getting more value, you aren’t getting as much money in, and you aren’t really going to always know when you’re beat. If you are in late position I would make a big raise (double the pot size) and try to get heads up action against a loose player with a crap hand get it all in on the flop. If you’re deep stacked heads-up against calling station, just play strongly until river.
FLOP-TURN-RIVER
Over bet river. People who have played awhile generally see a big bet on the river as a bluff or extreme strength. When you have a good hand you can do this and make them call with a slightly worse hand anywhere to ace high against a novice who is tied to AK.
Min raises or what looks like “post oak bluff” until river then go all in. Against rookies simply get the to feel slightly pot committed by raising small but slightly substantial amount. The tighter the player preflop, the more they’re going to feel like they have the best hand. They’re usually not used to playing until the river unless they have the best, so they are more likely to see your move as a bluff
You really only need a bad read or two to get a call when you’re ahead. You probably could try to milk it to the river against calling stations instead, but against a good player this move is best. It may work 40% of the time, so decide if 40% of your chips is better than what you’ll get if you bet all the way through you should do it.
Check in late position and then move all in on the turn (the less it makes sense, the better). This play is best against a solid player who makes reads or against a player who hasn’t seen much of your play and still has more chips than you.
Early position. Move all in on flop, occasionally do this with a flushdraw against weak/tight players or a flop with one face card against 1 or 2 opponents to be unpredictable and to promote the “maniac” image and get you a call later when you flop the nuts. If you have top 2 pair this may be a good move as well.
If you want to be able to make an all in bluffs and resteals, keep in mind that you have to have a lot of all-in moves in your normal game.
Always be asking yourself “how can I bust this player?” If I have the resources to call a big bet when I’m on a draw, will he call an all in against a flush thinking I hit?
What type of play will make the player think, “he must be bluffing or he can’t have a hand”
What will make the player think “I can’t call”
Check all the way through then all in on river.
Min bet then all in on river?
Call then all in on river?
Bet all the way through?

bet check-raise min then all in on river?
Always make sure to use the rule of thumb on multi-way pots and bluffs
WHAT I DO WHEN I WIN/
Fold a lot preflop
Fold almost as much on the flop
How I built my bankroll SAFEly
I generally play sit n gos. I generally play cheap multitabletornies if I have a decent bankroll as well.
I make smart laydowns.
I play premium hands in cash games. Fold like crazy. Sit in at small blind, switch tables before BB. Only sit in with minimum even with a bankroll. If you notice a really profitable table, at lower stakes, you can sit in with max and wait for premium hand.
How I built my bankroll FAST:
SLOW DOWN and play TIGHT. It’s counterintuitive but it works.
WIN cheap MTT
I generally played it all the way to the river… and put very little money into it unless I have a hand. I occasionally go all in on turn if I think my opponent is on a draw, but usually just let him hit or bluff.
I look for tables that play 50-60% of the flops. I take notes. I make reads, and I watch betting patterns. I generally only use 5% of my bankroll and leave if I double up or win a big hand.. Then I sit back down again with 5% and repeat. Calculate double up and break-even odds based on starting chip stack and blinds to give you an idea
I wait for a big hand in a cash game. If I don’t get it I switch tables before the big blind hits.
I’m in a good mood. I play when I’m winning and happy.
With a big hand I try to raise enough to force the short stacks to move all in, that way if other people call the small reraise, I can reraise again and get a lot more money in the pot.
Multi
Make a big play to get chips if you get a hand, then back WAYYY off and sit and wait until psychos take each other out. OR just wait it out and pick a spot to double up. Adapt and see cheap flops if the table permits.
Figure out how many hands you have left, and double up break even odds.
Wait for a big hand… After you get it and psychos gone, start to buy a few pots, show a bluff then wait.
This is the long awaited fifth edition of my guide no limit holdem tournament play. As it is approaching book length, I am hoping to get it published. My tentative title is “Play Poker Like the Fish.”
I have a lot of talent as an author. My girlfriend says I should get together with Darrel Benson and write a book.
The earlier editions of this manual have encountered criticism. Some people even thought this manual was a joke.
I have added new material on inflection points. I am sure this will receive a lot of criticism, as my material on the gap principle has. While my interpretation of these concepts in different from those of Sklansky and Harrington, I believe that my approach in the one actually applied more in practice.
Everywhere I play, I see people using my plays. However, unlike Doyle Brunson, I have not had to modify my style of play due to letting my secrets out. Like TJ Cloutier, I have been accused of not playing as I recommend.

I understand that David Sklansky is being considered for a Nobel Prize for his contributions to poker theory. I heard Phil Hellmuth on TV saying that his book was the greatest due to its unique feature of assigning animals to types of players (not fish, donkeys, and sharks, but elephants, mice, jackals, lions, and eagles). However, I am sure that my work will be recognized as the greatest classic of poker literature.
For my loyal fans, I have put the new material from the fourth edition in italics. In addition to inflection points, I have added new material on play with large blinds, position, and Party speed tournaments. I have added a new link, additional tips from the pros, and expanded the material on how to play specific hands.

I. Preflop Play
A. The Gap Principle
The gap principle states that you need a bigger hand to raise than to call a raise. In general, you should avoid raising before the flop, but you can limp or call a raise. You can limp with any pair, any two high cards, or any suited or connecting cards. In general, once you have limped in, you can call a raise of any size.
B. Raising
If you must raise, it is generally best to make a miniraise. That way you avoid knocking anyone out of the pot. Since you think you have the best hand, you want as many people in the pot as possible.
Another approach is to open raise from early position for 5-10x BB with KK-99 or AJ-AK. That way you can frequently pick up the pot right there. Plus you can build a big pot and your opponents will feel intimidated that you have such a big hand. Also, if anyone reraises you after such a big raise, you can be pretty sure they have you beat and you can fold.
C. Cold calling raises.
You need a stronger hand to cold call a raise than to call if you have already limped. Generally, you can call with any ace or any two high cards.
C. Allin raises by short stacks
If a short stack raises allin rather than making a normal raise or limping that is an indication that he does not have a strong hand and is just trying to steal the blinds. Therefore, you can call with any hand you would normally limp with.
D. Playing a Big Stack
If you follow the advice in this manual, you will frequently find yourself with a big stack. Now you have a chance at the big money. Don’t blow it! Play cautiously and stay out of trouble.
E. Playing the Short Stack
With a short stack, you want to limp in and see as many flops as possible. Remember, you really don’t have anything until you see a flop. However, if you are raised you can call as usual.
Another approach is to limp or miniraise and then fold if some raises. That way you avoid busting out by running into a big hand.
Sometimes, you do need to make an allin move. It should usually be made from early position for greater intimidation value. When short stacked, it is good to go allin with any ace.
F. What To Do If a Short Stack is Allin
If a short stack is allin in front of you, you should flat call with any of the limping hands discussed above, but you should never raise over the top.
G. If Two or More Players Are Allin
If two or more players are allin before the flop, this is a great opportunity to win a big pot. Generally, you can call with any ace, any two high cards, or any pair.
H. Stealing the Blinds
While we generally don’t advocate raising, sometimes you want to raise to steal the blinds. This is often effective early in the tournament. Generally it is good to make a miniraise to steal the blinds. Good hands to steal with are any ace or king. You can also steal with total junk (after all you are stealing). This will confuse your opponents and get you more action when you really do have a hand. If you steal and are reraised, you should generally push. Don’t let anyone resteal from you. If you get 2 or 3 callers, you should follow up with a big bet on the flop whatever cards hit.
I. Punishing the Limpers
We will cover an advanced strategy known as “punishing the limpers” that is highly respected by some, although we prefer an alternate approach known as “punishing the raisers.” Punishing the limpers assumes that a limper is unlikely to have a strong hand. This approach may work against players who have not read this manual and are not aware of the advantages of limping with strong hands.
Say there are several limpers in the pot. Then you can push with any two cards, since they will probably all fold, and if not you probably have as good a hand as the one you are called with. Another approach can be used later in the tournament when limping is less common. If there is an early position limper and you are short stacked with 8xBB or less in the CO position or later, you can push with any two cards. The limper cannot have a good hand limping this late in the tournament and will probably fold. If not, you probably have the best hand plus pot odds.
J. Trapping
Trapping can be used with any hand AQ, JJ or better from any position. You don’t raise with these hands. You just limp in. Then if someone raises, you reraise. Alternatively, you can smooth call and trap your opponent for more bets on later rounds.

K. Position
Position is a generally overrated concept. If you have a strong hand like two cards ten or higher, what does it matter what seat you are in? You have to be aware how other players think though. Many players regard a raise from early position as representing a stronger hand. Therefore, you should play the opposite and raise more freely from early position, as you will have more chance to win the pot before or after the flop.

L. Facing a Reraise
In general this problem should avoided by limping rather than raising. However, later in the tournament it is common practice to raise, so you will find yourself being reraised. The important thing is never to fold to a reraise. You haven’t seen the flop, so you don’t know if you are beaten. Plus, if someone really had a big hand, he would trap rather than raise to steal the pot.
M. How to Play Late in the Tournament
You see these idiots making all these crazy moves with weak hands late in the tournament which they justify with pot odds folding equity, isolation etc. Just play your regular game and limp, call, or put in standard raises as your hands warrant it.

N. Inflection Point
The inflection point is a time late in the tournament when you need to chance your strategy. Before the inflection point, you should try to see as many flops and possible, limping and calling raises. After the inflection point, you should play very tightly, so as to avoid busting out. By avoiding playing hands, you can move higher in the prize money without doing anything.

O. How to Play When the Blinds Become Very Large
In turbo/speed tournaments and daily live tournaments, the blinds often become very large so that almost everyone just has a small multiple of the big blind. At this point it is important to play very tight and only play premium hands. You can frequently cash or move up in the prize money by just not playing any hands.

II. Playing the Flop
A. Reading Hands
I will give a couple of examples which will make clear how easy it is to read your opponents hands. Say you limp with A9o, someone raises and you call. If the board comes ace high, you can put your opponent on a pair of face cards and go allin. If the board comes nine high, you can put your opponent on a big ace and go allin.
Similarly, if you limp with 77, call a raise, and the flop comes with low cards you can put your opponent on AQ or AK and go allin.
B. Playing Top Pair
You should generally be ready to go allin with top pair.
C. Playing Draws
Like top pair, you can generally call or go allin with any draw.
A more cautious approach is to make the absolute minimum bet, such as one BB. This will discourage other players from betting while you have a chance to make your hand. If you follow the advise of this manual, that will be the same way you play a big hand, so it will be difficult for opponents to raise you.
D. If You Flop a Big Hand
If you flop a big hand, it is generally best to go allin right away.
Another approach with a big hand is to trap with it. That involves making the absolute minimum bets on the flop and turn and then pushing on the river.
E. Calling on the Flop
If someone makes a small bet of ½ the pot on the flop, they probably don’t have anything, so you can call with any hand.
F. Bluffing
Bluffing is best made early in the tournament. If your initial bluff is called, follow up by going allin. You can usually intimidate your opponents into folding.
It is good to bluff when you are not sure if you are ahead. That way, you have two ways to win. Your opponent may fold to your bluff and he may call and it turns out you had the best hand.
G. How to Tell If Your Opponent is Bluffing
If you bet with a strong hand and your opponent raises, you can put him on a bluff and push.
H. When to Fold
Generally, you should fold when you are sure you are beaten. You never want to throw away a winner.
I. When You Don’t Know What Else to Do, Push
This is a more advanced play that follows from the principle of never folding a winning hand. Say you are in a 3-way pot with 54s. The flop comes JT9 with a two of your suit. One player makes a pot sized bet and the other calls. If you call, you are drawing to a flush which may not be good, and you probably face more big bets on the turn, which will make it difficult to call with your draw. Since you cannot fold a hand that might be a winner, you should push. Both opponents will probably fold. If they don’t, maybe you will win with a flush.
III. Playing Specific Hands
A. Playing AQ
AQ has a reputation as a hand you can lose a lot of money with. While if you understand the contents of this manual you will realize that hands like A6 are much more profitable, AQ can also be profitable if played correctly.
The key is to never raise preflop with AQ. If you raise and an ace or queen doesn’t flop, where are you? For example, if there are two limpers in the pot and you have AQ, you should just limp. This can be a very tricky play. Say someone in late position tries to steal the pot from a bunch of limpers by pushing with AT or KQ. Won’t they be surprised when you call with AQ.
An advanced way to play AQ is to open miniraise with it from early position. This is a good compromise between raising and limping.
If you miniraise with AQ and get reraised, you should reraise allin. If someone had a big pair, they would probably smooth call according to the trapping principle outlined in this manual, so you are probably even or ahead, and your opponent may fold to the push.
While it is generally better to limp initially with AQ, if someone raises from early position, you should always reraise allin with AQ. This is a perfect semibluff. Your opponent will probably fold, and if not you are probably at least even. This follows principles of if you don’t know what else to do push.
An unknown player doubled up and almost made it to the final table of the WSOP by making as excellent play of this type, reraising allin 30 x pot with AQo.
If you limp with AQ and someone raises, you should reraise allin. They will probably think you have aces and fold. If not, you have a good chance of winning the hand.

B. Playing AA
If there are several limpers to you with AA or several players have called a raise, you should make a small raise or reraise, not big enough to make anyone fold. Remember, you have a big hand and you want action. If there is one player who has raised, make a very small reraise or flat call to trap him after the flop.
It is OK to bet the flop with AA, but not enough to make anyone fold. If someone else bets, make a small bet or flat call.
The time to make your move with AA is on the turn. You should move allin with AA on the turn no matter what.
Another approach to playing AA, often used in practice and recommended by world champion Tom McEvoy, is to put a large raise or reraise in preflop in an attempt to take down the pot. That way you avoid having your aces busted.
C. Playing Medium Pairs
If there are several limpers to you or several players have called a raise, you should always raise or reraise with medium pairs. A small raise to build the pot is good. You can also make a large raise to try to win the pot or get heads up. These hands play much better heads up. With many players, someone is likely to flop a higher pair.
Later in the tournament, you can open raise with a medium pair. If you are reraised, you should always move in. A reraise is an attempt to steal the pot. At best your opponent has AQ or AK. You want to take the pot with your push or get the money in with the best hand.
After the flop, you can often play medium pairs to the river. You will be surprised how often a medium pair will hold up.
D. Playing a High Card Hand
If you understand the essence of this manual, you will realize that the most profitable hands to play are any two high cards T or higher. These hands were called trouble hands by Doyle Brunson, because of all the trouble they can cause for your opponents.
You should generally limp with these hands and call any raise. If you make a pair, you can play it very aggressively.
Later in the tournament, you can raise with these hands rather than limp. For example, it is good to raise with AT or KQ from early position. If you are reraised, you should flat call. Then if you make a pair, the preflop reraiser will generally automatically bet at the pot. Therefore, you should raise or checkraise, depending on position.
E. Playing Suited Connectors
While you are generally playing for a straight or flush, if you flop a pair you can generally play it aggressively. As mentioned elsewhere, you can generally go allin with any draw.

Aside from suited connectors, similar hands such as T9o, Q5s, 63s, and 42s can generally be played from any position. You want to limp with these hands, but if you are raised you can call.
In fact, you can call any number of preflop raises with a suited connector. Doyle Brunson in “Super System” mentions that suited connectors are great for winning a big pot against a big pair. The best way to do this is to call a preflop allin. The guy with the big pair will be really angry when you take him out this way, but that just shows what a good play it is.

IV. Playing Specific Types of Players
A. Weak/Tight Player
Early in a tournament a player who limps in and then folds to a raise and a reraise when everyone else calls is likely a weak/tight player. If someone folds to a ½ pot bet on the flop when everyone else calls, that is another sign of a weak/tight player.
The best way to deal with a weak/tight player is whenever he raises, reraise allin. The weak/tight player will almost certainly get scared and fold.
B. Maniacs
Maniacs are easy to recognize. The best way to deal with a maniac is to give him a dose of his own medicine. Don’t let him push you around. Make huge bets and raises with nothing.
V. Miscellaneous Topics
A. Adjusting to the Play of a Table
You should generally follow the lead of the other players at the table. For example, you should play tight at a tight table and loose at a loose table. At the beginning of the tournament, you can play very loose, and make and call bets much bigger than the tiny blinds. However, as the bubble approaches, you should tighten up your play considerably.
B. How to Play the Bubble
This is easy. Don’t play any hands during the bubble period. Then you avoid busting out on the bubble and not making the money. If you have a big hand you feel you have to play, miniraise. That way, you can fold if someone reraises.
Another good technique on the bubble is to stall. Take forever to make your moves. That way someone on another table will bust out first.
In a supersatellite, you should approach the bubble completely differently. In this case, there is no money to win, so the important thing is to win the tournament. If you have a big stack in a supersatellite, you should play aggressively. Reraise people allin to use their irrational fear of busting out to pick up the pot. Call pushes to bust people out. See a lot of flops and always be ready to make a move to pick up the pot.
C. Playing a Rebuy
The key to playing a rebuy is gambling to build a big stack. You don’t have to worry about busting out, since you can always rebuy if you do. You should frequently go allin preflop. Eventually, people will realize that you don’t often don’t have much and will call you, giving you a chance to get lucky and build a big stack. You should generally go allin preflop with any ace.
After the flop, you can generally go allin with any pair or draw.
After the rebuy period, you should generally raise, call a raise, or reraise with any of the limping hands discussed in the first section. If you see a flop, you should generally take your opponent allin in stages, regardless of what cards hit. Usually, your opponents will be intimidated by your aggressive play and fold.

D. How to Play a Party Poker Speed Tournament
These play like normal tournaments until about 20% of the field is left. At that point, you should stop playing any hands unless forced to by the blinds. You should also stall, regardless of your stack size. If you are not a short stack, you soon will be with the escalating blinds.

From that point forward, you should play no hands, except when put allin by the blinds. You should also continue to stall once the tournament is hand-for-hand. That way you can slow the whole tournament down. This is great for combating the idiots who tried to accumulate a big stack rather than just dodge the blinds. This way almost everyone will be put allin by the blinds. If you get lucky, and win your twice round confrontation with the other blind and any jerk who plays a big hand, you can make the final table.

VI. Tips From the Pros
The following tips are taken from “No Limit and Pot Limit Holdem” and other books by Cloutier and McEvoy. This book is highly recommended. A writer with no serious poker experience used the advice in this book to double up against TJ himself and take the lead in the WSOP.
You should only reraise preflop with AA or KK.
Say you reraise with AK and get two callers. The flop comes AQQ. You should check/fold. While a good player would fold QQ to a reraise, it is likely someone called with QQ and has quads.
Making a big overbet push from late position with a small pair is a bad play. It is better to put in a standard raise. Then you can fold if you are beaten or outdrawn.
Unsuited connectors are as good as suited connectors. You are likely to lose money by making a flush that is not the nuts.
If you raise with AK and miss the flop you should fold. It is obvious your opponent(s) are ahead of you with small to medium pocket pairs.
If you raise with KK and an ace flops, you should check/fold.
Say you call a raise and flop a set. Your opponent leads out. You should make a big overbet raise to get your opponent to fold, so he won’t be able to catch anything to beat you. The book indicates that in particular this is the proper way to play against TJ.
Don’t try to steal in particular from late position. Late position steals are too predictable.

Avoid draws. You just wind up bleeding chips calling and chasing. Otherwise, you wind up putting all your chips in behind. Don’t play suited connectors. They just lead to draws.
Sometimes you have to go on feel and raise with a weak hand. If you raise with 72o and the flop comes 772, no one will put you on 72 and you can win a big pot.

55 and TT are particularly valuable because they are key cards for straights.

VII. Links
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/?a_id=13878&m_id=87 A world champion reveals the secrets of how he won the WSOP. This article sums up his approach to poker.
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/?a_id=14413&m_id=65551 How to take first place.
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/?a_id=14426&m_id=65551 Cash game advice on playing AA and AK also applies to tournaments.
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/showarticle.php?a_id=14773&m_id=65563 A different approach to playing aces from the one recommended in this manual.
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/showarticle.php?a_id=14777&m_id=65563 How to take out a top professional using techniques from this manual.
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/showarticle.php?a_id=14756&m_id=65563 Mixing up your play is an important technique in tournament play.

http://www.pocketfives.com/12C4D99D-92DA-42E5-BB1C-73D253253DB4.aspx Making the right read and laying down a strong hand.
VIII. Recommended Reading
“Poker Tournament Strategy”, Sylvester Suzuki
“Poker Tournament Tips From the Pros”, Shane Smith
“Tournament Poker”, Tom McEvoy
“Pot Limit and No Limit Holdem”, Tom McEvoy and TJ Cloutier
“Super System II”, Doyle Brunson’s section on tournament play
Copyright 2005, Joseph Hammerman.
Edited by betgo (09/06/05 02:33 PM)But the same applies with doubling up. If you try to double up early lets say you win exactly 50% of the time(50.00000000001 so you have a slight edge), if you win lets say you chop away and get another coinflip for all your chips ( you have 2500 everyone else has increased in chips).. You have a 75% chance of being illiminated by this time, and a 25% chance of having 5000 chips.
Would you rather take this where you have a 25% overall of being eliminated, or chop away and get up to 1500 in chips and THEN take a coinflip. At this point you have a 50% of being illiminated, a 50% chance of having 3000 in chips.
To clear things up lets say with the 2nd example, you go all in again for all your chips with a coinflip immediately after that hand. At this point you have a 75% overall of being eliminated sometime and a 25% chance of having 6000 chips.
Now to add in more variables, the blinds are a much more significant amount at this point. If the blinds had gotten to be up to 100/200 and the BB and SB fold, you win 3300 and then 6900, where as if you did this earlier (say the blinds are 25/50) you would go to 2075, chop away and get 2575 and then go up to 5150.
Then continue to realize that if you do take the risk early you have given yourself a 75% chance that you will never see aces again. Given that aces are next, the person who waited and folded the 50/50 hand has 100% chance of seeing aces, where as the person who did not not only only has a 50% chance of seeing this aces, but now has 1000 more chips than everyone else. The overall chip value of this player after the hand is (2000*.85)= 2850, since they only have a 50% chance of seeing this, the overall chipvalue of the series of moves is (2850*.5)=1700. The person who waited will have an overall chip value of (1000*1.85) =1700. But you must realize that the risk of illimination is much greater if you take both a coinflip and aces for all your chips. If you take the coinflip
Looks to me like the early gamble of doubling up has yielded a less positive situation than not.
Now it does get tricky…. Obviously you have to be able to maintain your chip count. Since AA comes 1/200 some hands, a player who simply folds everyhand until then will lose chips. An orbit comes every 10 hands, if blinds were an average of 15/30 during this period the person making the 2nd move would sit through about 20 orbits. If they continued to fold they would decay to 45*20=900. 1000-900 is 100.
They have a 100% chance of surviving to see these aces, but the aces would only move them up to 200 chips 85% of the time. They would be left with EV of 170.
Someone who doubles with a coinflip, and then waits 200 hands is 2000-900=1100, then moves in with aces and doubles up to 2200, the chance of all this happening is 50%*85% giving them an EV of 935 chips, but a 42.5% chance of survival
Obviously in an extreme example if you are in the money after the aces and faced with an all in the very next hand due to insane increase of blinds, you are better off folding every single hand. Looking the other way, if the payout was only the top 10 out of 2000 and the blinds went up every single hand, every hand with increasing antes as well you’d have to win multiple all ins to survive, and basically would have to consider taking average hands, and it basically would be a lottery.
Although you do gain much more chips by taking
Obviously you are passing up too many edges at this point, But what if these two courses of action would both gaurentee you in the money, but you would be illiminated. At this point the 935 chips isn’t that much greater than the 170.
For all you know you catch aces 5 times in as row when you get down to 10 times the big blind and everyone else is at 50. Perhaps there is a table with tons of fish and you manage to steal their blinds like crazy and have EV++++ situations. Maybe there are multiple EV+++ situations much higher than slightly above even money later on. If this was the case you could handle waiting for situations where you are a 60% favorite before you have to get your money in. Perhaps people are so aggressive that you can fold your way into the money. If any of these were the case, it was most certainly an unnecessary move to go all in with a 50% chance of winning.
Obviously there are situations where everyone else is so good and so much better than you, that they maintain their chips, get perfect reads, as you have virtually no EV situations, and lose chips with the blinds. There becomes a point where players are good and your chips get low and cards run bad and the EV of any move is negative and will be until you’re out of chips. If this is the case you simply have to take the lowest possible EV-, and at that point not taking the coinflip was a mistake. There may be a certain point where you can chop away at pots and everyone folds with a bet of 40% of the pot. There may be a point where everyone calls the flop and then is way to aggressive after the flop. If that’s the case, there’s no point in getting all your money in preflop if you have enough chips to see enough flops until you know you have the best hand.
The reason taking the edge early is important, Is because it allows players with more chips to put pressure on the other players… Another reason is it allows you to simply outfold all the maniacs, and then still have a decent size chip stack when you’re up against the other players, and allows you to wait long enough until you have a hand.
NOW… If your moves were all in or fold preflop on everyhand, and you were called every hand you move all in, I believe that one could make a formula based on the average rate of decay to optimize your success. This would not be to win the tormenent, but to maximize the amount of hands that you get to see, maximizing the chances that you make the money.
The formula would look something like this
Hands played=Average chance of winning each hand*total amount of chips left-average decay per rotation
You want to find the max point you can have for H
To plug this in to a turbo sit N go, at a 10/15 level of blinds the formula would be
H=1500-45X. (X is amount of hands you’ll need to see on average before seeing the selection of hands)
If the blinds remained the same, simply folding would allow you to see on average 33.3 rotations or about 333 hands.
Now if you played Aces, Kings and Queens this would mean that you would be only playing 1.4% of all hands. You would have to fold about 99 out of 100 hands, leaving you with .14 hands per rotation. Every 10 rotations ~about 1 hand. If this was the case your would lose an average of 450 before you see any of those hands, and have a total of 1050. Doubling up would bring you to 2050. Lets say on average you managed to go headsup against the range of AA-88, Aks-A9s KQ-KTs QJ-QTs AK-AJ KQ. All others folded. You would win about 74% of the time on average. Take this 74% and multiply it by 2050. You get 1517 for your average value. The problem is, although by this method in the long run your chips are increasing, if you lose just once you can’t buy back in. So given that you’re all in again, your chance of surviving 2 all ins in a row with these odds is %54.76. your chance of 3 times in a row is %40.5. So by folding, you actually will last longer than those who take this strategy about 60% of the time.
If you wanted to figure out the percentage to play exactly break even poker by going all in and being called you would have to say that
1500=2(1500-(X amounts of rotation before seeing hand*45))(*Y% of winning)
/2
750=(1500-(X rotations*45)) (Y% of winning)
the max amount of rotations before going broke is 33.3
The min amount is 1.
There are different options from 33.3 to 1. Lets figure out the % we would need to win to break even if we could play a hand that we only saw every 15 rotations (1/150)
750=(1500-(15*45))(Y%)
750=(825)(Y%)
750/825=90%
Since even aces is only about an 85% favorite there is no specific preflop hand that you could wait for.
Now lets say we want to include the top 10 hands only. I’ll go with AA-77 and Aks-Aqs. This makes up 6.3% of starting hands. We would see this about 1 time every 15.5 hands or 1.5 rotations.
750=(1500-(1.5*45))(Y%)
750=(1429)(Y%)
750/1429=52.48%
again, according to pokerstove, you would win about 55.3% of the time, so with these blinds, this would be a profitable play against even the top 10% of hands if you let every blind go.
You can play around with this until you find the optimal hands to play.
In the long run you would gain chips. Since your chance of survival is 74% every all in, this would be a very good course of action. To summarize, as long as you have anywhere from 35 to 50 times the big blind, this method would yield long term survival.
Lets say the blinds move up to 25/50.
You have 30 times the big blind, or 20 orbits that you have to survive.
To simplify things figure out it in relationship to your small blinds left.
You pay 3 small blinds everytime around
60small blinds
Now playing AA KK QQ or 1.4% of the hands your chance of winning would have to be?
1.4% is about every 7 rotations
60=2(60-(7 amounts of rotation before seeing hand*3))(*Y% of winning)
30=(60-(21))(Y% of winning)
/31=.77
your chance of winning would have to be 77% unfortunately against the top 10% of hands, you will only win 73% of the time so you have to choose to play more hands to be successful. Lets include AA-99 and AKs as well. You will see this 1 out of 33 hands or 1/3 rotations
60=2(60-(3 amounts of rotation before seeing hand*3))(*Y% of winning)
30=(60-(9))(Y% of winning)
/51=58% of winning. (actual 61%)
If you have 30times the big blind it is possible to play break even poker by only playing the top 7 hands.
It would look like this
1500-225=1275*2=2550*61%=1555.5
Now what happens when you get short stack, and you are almost certainly going to be forced all in eventually? Since you will generally be called by the top few hands, is it possible to play break even poker without stealing a blind with a random hand?
The interesting situation is that since the average decay is .3 small blinds/hand, it actually would be a better move to take an EV of 30-.3SB/60=49.5%. The more you decay, the more –EV you can take, if you had 15 SBs left, you would be able to play 49% underdogs and it’d be better than folding.
Well lets say you have 30 times the small blind (15 times big blind)
If you get down to half of that, there’s no way you can double up and break even so the minimum would be 3 rotations. At the minimum what must your chance of winning be?
30=2(30-(3 amounts of rotation before seeing hand*3))(*Y% of winning)
15=(30-(9))(Y% of winning)
/=.71
3 rotations= 30 hands 1/30 hands= top 3% of hands=AA-99 and AKs but they only yield a 61% chance against top hands, so it appears we’ve waited too long.
How about 2.1 rotations, top 21 hands top 4.7% of hands AA-TT AK-AQ (suited and unsuited)
30=2(30-(2.1 amounts of rotation before seeing hand*3))(*Y% of winning)
15=(30-(9))(Y% of winning)
/=.63.2% still just a couple percent short(60.1) about 3 off
30=2(30-(1.85 amounts of rotation before seeing hand*3))(*Y% of winning)
15=(30-(9))(Y% of winning)
/=.61.3% still just a couple percent short (actual 58) 3 off again
It looks like once you get below this point you gotta hope you get a hand earlier than expected, or move tables at the right point. You can get close to playing break even poker, but not against the tight range of hands listed. Fortunately, you may pick up an extra 3 small blinds or so from the small and BB folding, so you are not completely out, but once you get to the point of 15 big blinds there is generally no way to maintain your chips in the long run. This could be why the rule of thumb is to just go all in with a raising hand in the big blind. You may pick up the blinds and have a shot at getting above break even point if you can find a hand. I think at this point you have to either take some risks on marginal cards or just hoping they’ll fold, or take a risk by waiting and folding into the money or folding minus a double up or two. Although the double up while you still have chips is much better since if you win you’ll have much more chips, you can also realize that at some point, the longer you wait, the more likely you are to get called .
Lets try at 18 times the big blind
How about 2.1 rotations, top 21 hands top 4.7% of hands AA-TT AK-AQ (suited and unsuited)
36=2(36-(2.1 amounts of rotation before seeing hand*3))(*Y% of winning)
18=(36-(6.38))(Y% of winning)
/3?=.6077 actual 60.032% You can’t say whether or not you can play break even poker with 18XBB or less (ignoring ante). So basically the time to open up your game and look for spots to take chances to steal is at 20 times the big blind. If you go below, you’re going to have to wait until your hand. Once you get to 10 times big blind all in if you have a good shot at buying pots. Otherwise call with a lot of hands if table allows, and be ready to move if you hit flop good. Pay attention to how others play you. Check the odds if your hand is good vs your opponents. If you’re planning on making a move to double up, you have to try to call and hope to get raised. Trap some people in behind you to get those extra 2 or 3 big blinds. If you can double up and get those two, you’re back to break even poker. Calculate like this 20SB/3 SB per rotation= 6.6 times around* 10 players = about 66 hands/3=22 1/22=.045… play slightly more than the top 5% of hands at this point all in. The more chips you have the longer you can wait if you’re playing survival poker. At this point you may want more people in the pot if it’s a good hand. It depends on if they’ll fold. If you can steal you might want to just push all in. If you think you’re going to get raised and can get headsup action with a lot of dead money call then push all in if raised. Then just play it well after the flop. If it’s a very very good hand You need to just call. At this point you’re not going to have very good chances at winning unless you get the most possible value out of this hand. You can probably almost triple up if you play this multipot right.
It’s no wonder why Steve Dannemen was able to be successful by only playing the top 10 hands of poker. He may not have won the entire thing, but was able to survive and basically play break even poker. If everyone else is tight, playing tighter is an option if the blinds allow it. Sure he got lucky at times, and I’m sure he didn’t double up completely in all of his hands, and he folded a few good hands (QQ being one of them) but his method of playing allowed him to not only survive but profit in the long run against even the tight opponents unless somehow he got severely short stacked.
He likely stayed short stack most of the time, but when he did have his hand, people would be more likely to call him as he was shorter stacked and more desparate. The big blinds were much larger at this point. When he started going all in with AKs AK Aqs AJ Ats, QQ people basically had to wait for AK JJ or better to call him. And they may even have to wait longer if they think he might do that with AA and KK as well.
There also came a point when he pushed all in anytime he was raised with a broader range of hands than usual (A10 AJ AQ AK). At this point although what he was doing may have had a negative long term profit. Eventually you lose all your money, but betting money on something that happens 99% of the time usually won’t hurt you to do a few times. He was “lucky” to not run into a hand, but if he did run into a hand he had a lot of outs. This helped him, especially towards the end of the tournament when the blinds were bigger and everyone was tighter.
Top 4% of hands
60=2(60-(3 amounts of rotation before seeing hand*3))(*Y% of winning)
30=(60-(9))(Y% of winning)
/51=58% of winning. (actual 61%)
49=2(49-(2.5 *3))(Y% )
24.5=(41.5) (Y)
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/printarticle.php?a_id=12251
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/showarticle.php?a_id=14150
http://www.tightpoker.com/bluffing.html
http://casinogambling.about.com/cs/poker/a/bluffing.htm
http://www.cardplayer.com/poker_magazine/archives/showarticle.php?a_id=14805&m_id=65565
https://secure.nolimitholdemsecrets.com/ebooks/download_b.html
Hey Mike it’s Mike from Minnetonka, Minnesota here,
I just got a quick question regarding multi table tournaments.
How do you play after a table change when you first sit down at a new table? It’s difficult to play your normal game because if you raise and someone re-raises all in, you don’t know if they’re a maniac or a tight player who has a legitimate hand. To avoid this is it better to wait until you notice someone’s betting patterns, playing style, tells or something you can take advantage of, or is it better to raise a few hands early and take control of the table immediately and make the table respond to you?
Also give some examples of hands that you might play or avoid playing when you first sit down.
Thanks for the call, I’m looking forward to your insight.

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I see a lot of good points some people have made, but they seem to forget about a lot of key things though. Just as if in football a team could win the game without putting the ball in the air and risking a turnover they would and SHOULD, it would be foolish to risk an all in, even if you had an advantage if you knew that you were going to get a better situation.
Extreme example… deep stack tournaments with a flat blind structure for the first 10 hours. The entire tournament people limp every hand and check to the turn and push anytime they had had pair of 9s or better. Would you call every all in as a slight edge even if you could get a bigger one later? If the blinds allow for enough play, and opponents allow for something like this, you wouldn’t want to take every slight EV if you had to keep risking it all with a chance of being beat, because you would have to survive multiple all ins and your opponents might have outs. Sure other players might take advantage of this and lets say everyone also CALLS with 2 pair or better here. Well sure if you waited for the absolute nuts which lets say you could do without blinding down to half your stack, everyone would seem to “beat you” in the race for chips… But if you could wait for the nuts the entire tournament you would find yourself winning 100% of the time. what about another example, people that you are in a pot with ONLY check and call and fold…you’re the only one that can bet… Does it make ANY sense to go all in without the nuts? Not a damn bit. Does it make sense to BET some amount with a hand that has +EV but not the nuts, You bet! (although it would be a damn boring tournament)
If tournaments were full of people playing optimally based on the range of hands they put their opponents on in terms of not taking outlandish risks and everything, you should never pass up a even slight edge, however that’s not the case, there’s people going all in with suited connectors early, reasoning “if they double up they can use that stack” and playing foolishly. the fact is you can EXPECT to get much better than EV situations. The goal of a tounrmanet is to make MONEY not win, but make money… this is contingent upon #1 survival. Live to see another hand. Sure, accumulating chips so you can withstand the variance and maniacs and everything that happens as a result of high blinds is a PART of survival, but it does not necessarily REQUIRE all ins to win the game. Just for fun I played a play money 100 person tournament to see if i could win it without being all in and I DID.
Consider the following insane situation. If you knew that 1 person at every single table would go all in every single hand, and half the table would call, in a 5000 person tournament without fees if you pick up aces would it be worth it to call? Assuming the payout was say 20% to first and 15% to second, and the rest distributed deep, here’s the deal. first hand 5000 2nd 2500 1250 625 312 156 78 39 20 10 5 3 2 1… basically 14 hands not including ties and
If you KNEW this to be the case you shouldn’t even call with aces… However in any other situation you should…. The reason you shouldn’t is because you know that you can fold your way to 2nd place 100% of the time in this redonkulous situation. In a 5000 person event 20% for first would represent 1000X your buy in back. 15% for second would represent 750X your buy in.
if you fold your way to second you are outchipped by a factor of 4999… lets just say since you have to double up 14 times at this point, you probably only have about .01% chance of winning. Even if you “double your chances of winning” by doubling up, your chances are still horrible to win and don’t make a damn bit of difference as far as $EV go.
Situation 1
you win 2nd 99.99% of the time (750X) $EV 749.925X your buyin
and first .01% of the time ($EV .1X your buyin)
overall EV is 750.025X your buy in.
Situation 2
You lose 20% of the time out of the money
You finish 1st TWICE as much but still only .02% of the time.
You finish 2nd 79.98% of the time (599.95X buyin)
you finish first .02% of the time (20X buyin)
overall $EV is 619.95
Feel free to adjust this based on what 1st and 2nd pays, it could be 25% for first and 12% for second, but it would be the same.
How’s this change in a qualifying supersatellite? it AGAIN shows the relevency to play tight. In supersatellites you often have players FOLDING aces to all ins preflop and CORRECTLY so because they’re going to be able to fold themselves into the money anyways and the payout is the same(. But most of these players took a 60/40 all in EARLIER prior to getting aces, but it simply does NOT make sense to take a 60/40 if you’re going to be getting an 80/20%.
I guess it just depends on if you’re playing to WIN tournaments, or if you’re playing to WIN MONEY…
To me tournaments are more about risk management. Hypothetically if you could win an average of 1M or more per round without EVER being all in, you would win the tournament if the pots were small enough in relationship to your chipstack to survive the varience.
I don’t know, it’s certainly possible I’m wrong, and I’m not trying to avocate a weak tight game, in fact MOST of the time I play an aggro game, and like to enter in a lot of small pots because I think I can either get my opponents to fold the better hand enough for me to accumulate chips little pot at a time, or I’ll bet the flop and my opponent will call and check trying to trap me thinking I’ll be again and I’ll pick up a backdoor flusdraw, check and crack someone’s aces and have my opponent misplay the hand letting me in for cheap, and not correctly realizing that although I bet a LOT, I’m not going to move in without my opponent virtually drawing dead if I can help it. So they’ll end up giving me HUGE implied odds and I’ll have the nuts, but based on my past they’ll have to call. The whole thing is opponents misplay me so much that the EARLIER on in the tournament, the more I’m giving up by being all in. If I KNEW that on average from the beginning of the tournament I could either play hands to the river in a small pot, or chop away at small pots, or get my money in with the nuts, and obtain 10,000 chips before another all in situation. If I was in a situation on the first hand that I could somehow know that I was a 70% favorite, or was a 70% over his range of hands, then I’m gaining 1500 70% of the time, and continueing to gain 10,000 more leaving me with 13,000 at the next all in situation
OR I could NOT be all in and still end up with 11500 at the next all in situation. Well here’s the thing.
NOW an all in is say 60/40. If I take it (which I might in either situation because the edges I’ll be able to get will certainly tighten up, and an all in will probably be inevitable) In situation where I doubled up early, 60% of the time I’ll have 26000 and 40% of the time I’ll be done
On the other situation it will be the same only 60% of the time I’ll have 23000…
But you have to look at the big picture…
in situation 1 I’m out not 40% of the time, but OF the 70% of the time I make it I’m out 40% of the time, overall I have to win both so I’m out 58% of the time
Would you rather have a 42% chance of having 26000
Or a 60% of winning 23000.
Well we can put a value on it
.42*26000=10920
.6*23000=13800
Obviously there are no gaurentees, even the best player is not gaurenteed to be able to accumulate chips by chopping away and by outplaying opponents in small pots and by getting it in good. There’s a chance you get put at a very loose aggressive table where you don’t get to see a flop and you get card dead. But EVEN SO, if there’s a 70% chance of accumulating 10,000 chips then you still can take
70% of that 10,000 chips and it will be 7000 chips instead expected.
well guess what?
10,000 becomes 20,000 42% of the time (EV 8400)
8500 becomes 17,000 60% of the time. (EV 10200)
Sure maybe when you go up to 3000 you even have a greater chance of being able to accumulate that 10,000 than 70% but it’s really not that much. You have enough chips to be able to rob people blind, or get your money in good against opponents who don’t raise enough with their aces yet still are willing to call all in with them regardless of the flop.
I don’t think I can put it any clearer, people play so BAD online at the lower stakes I play, and I don’t think people understand what they’re REALLY giving up by putting themselves all in.
Everyone’s trying to single out the future aspects of the game, they’re always saying you only evaluate the situation at hand, but this disregards a LOT of things.
The best example I can show is near the bubble when you have say the TIGHTEST table in the world that you’re running over EXCEPT one maniac joins your table and is literally all in every single hand. You could wait for a hand and fold yourself into the money, but you’re missing out on OPPORTUNITY to gain so much. Your opportunity costs of waiting for a hand in THIS situation is so great If I had a chance to take him out, say I’ve watched him play and I know that EVERY single time he goes all in on the bubble. I personally rather not give someone the chance to pick him off. I know that if I call with some hand people are going to know that I’m willing to call them with any two so I can steal even more. Lets say for whatever reason the best opportunity I would have would be HIM being a 53% favorite and ME being a 47% dog. Unless we were EXTREMELY deep stacked I would be willing to call in a heartbeat before I get him a chance to accumulate more chips than me. Not only do 47% of the time I get all of his chips, but lets say 47% of the time I survive I get the blinds of everyone else’s for like 4 rotations uncontested. That’s an M of 40! (sure, it will diminish to an M of 30 when the blinds go up but still) At this point I also have to be in a position to win or at least finish top 5. Having a chip advantage over your opponents is SO much more valuable after the bubble than early. I don’t know, maybe it’s not true mathematically, but it certainly is psychologically over players, and humans are NOT perfect cardplaying computers, to assume they are is flawed logic.
I have to be able to either sit back and wait when everyone goes all in after the bubble bursts, or a situation where I can call my slight edges without risking a big portion of my chips.
It may sound ridiculous to give up edges early (or at least not play them big), but the thing is no matter HOW many +EV advantages you push to the absolute max, you’re still almost always going to end up comming across people with more chips that are either slightly better or got luckier or caught cards or a combination of all. The blinds get bigger and you simply can’t expect to not run into tables where people have you outchipped. If you’re going to end up having to survive all these all ins just to accumulate a few more chips, I dont care if you have aces, your chances of surviving, and winning just aren’t going to be very good. the big 5000 person tournaments aren’t a track meet they’re a marathon, you have to find a style that consistently gains chips with little risk if you want to expect to finish consistently deep in the money. It’s not about +EV it’s about risk management more than anything, you take every EV situation that ISN”T risking all of your chips and you’re going to be able to do VERY well and accumulate chips. You’re going to have to survive LESS double ups because you’re accumulating chips prior to the double up. Call it a “leak” for passing up a 60/40 the first hand, and taking a 53/48 later, but the pot odds are better later, the chips position is more important, and the overall expected value of taking it later (given you can steadily accumulate small pots uncontested up to a certain point) is greater, as is your chance of survival, as a result your amount of mid-late tournament experience that you get is greater as well, and your future chances of winning tournaments is better. Experience late in tournaments is invaluable, even though it’s more of a crapshoot.
ok that’s the end of my VERY long post, I’m done with this thread, I have refuted everything there is to refute. I’m happy to read any replies that say anything different and I’ll try to look at things from your perspectives, but this is the way I see it.
=

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^{^{Hand Number}}	^{^236085133}
^{^{Start Date}}	^{^{2006-03-26 15:44:18.0}}
^{^{End Date}}	^{^{2006-03-26 15:45:35.0}}
^{^{Pot Size}}	^{^$91.00}
^{^Rake}	^{^$3.00}
^{^{Game Type}}	^{^Hold’Em}
^{^{Play Mode}}	^{^Real}
^{^{Table Name}}	^{^{Castle Pines}}
^{^Structure}	^{^Fixed}
^{^{Table Stakes}}	^{Min BetMax BetAnteBlinds$2.00$4.00 $1.00$2.00}
^{^{Community Cards}}	^{^{K K 9 3 7}}

^{^{Starting hand}}	^{^{Occurs (per hand dealt)}}	^{^{Hands Won %}}	^{^{Hands Split %}}	^{^{Notes/position play in different games}}
^{^AA}	^{^0.45%}	^{^31.00}	^{^0.49}	^{^{All positions any game.}}
^{^KK}	^{^0.45%}	^{^26.02}	^{^0.61}	^{^{All positions any game.}}
^{^QQ}	^{^0.45%}	^{^22.03}	^{^0.76}	^{^{All positions any game.}}
^{^AKs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^20.19}	^{^1.88}	^{^{All positions any game.}}
^{^JJ}	^{^0.45%}	^{^19.09}	^{^0.92}	^{^{All positions any game.}}
^{^AQs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^18.66}	^{^2.17}	^{^{All positions any game. (75% tight early)}}
^{^KQS}	^{^0.30%}	^{^18.08}	^{^2.09}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle-late /blinds (typical/tight)}}
^{^AJs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^17.47}	^{^2.46}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle-late /blinds (typical/tight)}}
^{^KJs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^17.05}	^{^2.36}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle-late /blinds (typical/tight)}}
^{^TT}	^{^0.45%}	^{^16.83}	^{^1.12}	^{^{All positions any game.}}
^{^AK}	^{^0.91%}	^{^16.67}	^{^1.97}	^{^{All positions (75% early tight)}}
^{^ATs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^16.63}	^{^2.74}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle (50% typical) late/blinds}}
^{^QJs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^16.58}	^{^2.39}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle (50% typical) late/blinds}}
^{^KTs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^16.14}	^{^2.62}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle (50% typical) late/blinds}}
^{^QTs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^15.84}	^{^2.64}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle (50% typical) late/blinds}}
^{^JTs}	^{^0.30%}	^{^15.78}	^{^2.75}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle (50% typical) late/blinds}}
^⁹⁹	^{^0.45%}	^{^15.29}	^{^0.85}	^{^{All positions (50% early mid tight)}}
^{^AQ}	^{^0.91%}	^{^14.87}	^{^2.25}	^{^{All positions (25% early tight)}}
^{^A9s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^14.60}	^{^2.68}	^{^{All positions (25% tight 50% typical early)}}
^{^KQ}	^{^0.91%}	^{^14.43}	^{^2.18}	^{^{All positions (10% early 50% mid tight)}}
^⁸⁸	^{^0.45%}	^{^14.16}	^{^0.85}	^{^{All positions (25% early 50% mid tight)}}
^{^K9s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^14.15}	^{^2.47}	^{^{Mid (50% loose) Late position and blinds}}
^{^T9s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^14.07}	^{^2.66}	^{^{Early (loose) late/blinds (typical)}}
^{^A8s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^13.89}	^{^2.86}	^{^{Early (loose 50%) Middle to late/blinds}}
^{^Q9s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^13.82}	^{^2.44}	^{^{Mid (50% loose) Late position and blinds (typ)}}
^{^J9s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^13.80}	^{^2.49}	^{^{Mid (50% loose) button/blinds (typical)}}
^{^AJ}	^{^0.91%}	^{^13.45}	^{^2.55}	^{^{Early (loose) Middle (typ) button/blinds (tight)}}
^{^A5s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^13.43}	^{^3.27}	^{^{Early (loose 50%) button/blinds (tight/typical)}}
^⁷⁷	^{^0.45%}	^{^13.36}	^{^0.86}	^{^{All positions (25% early tight) (tight/typical)}}
^{^A7s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^13.35}	^{^3.01}	^{^{Early (loose 50%) button/blinds (tight/typical)}}
^{^KJ}	^{^0.91%}	^{^13.18}	^{^2.48}	^{^{Early (loose 50%) button/blinds (tight/typical)}}
^{^A4s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^13.17}	^{^3.06}	^{^{Early (loose 50%) button/blinds (tight/typical)}}
^{^A3s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^13.07}	^{^2.86}	^{^{Early (loose 50%) button/blinds (tight/typical)}}
^{^A6s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.97}	^{^3.11}	^{^{Early (loose 50%) button/blinds (tight/typical)}}
^{^QJ}	^{^0.91%}	^{^12.89}	^{^2.49}	^{^{Early (loose 25%) button/blinds (tight/typical)}}
^⁶⁶	^{^0.45%}	^{^12.77}	^{^0.85}	^{^{All pos. (loose) late/blinds (25% tight/typical)}}
^{^K8s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.77}	^{^2.60}	^{^{Early (loose 25%) button/blinds (15%tight/typ)}}
^{^T8s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.73}	^{^2.69}	^{^{Late/blinds (15% tight/typical)}}
^{^A2s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.69}	^{^2.63}	^{^{Early (loose) button/blinds (15% tight/typ)}}
^{^98s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.63}	^{^2.36}	^{^{Early (loose 25%) button/blinds (15%tight/typ)}}
^{^J8s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.47}	^{^2.53}	^{^{Early (loose 15%) button/blinds (10%tight/typ)}}
^{^AT}	^{^0.91%}	^{^12.43}	^{^2.84}	^{^{Early (loose 25%) button/blinds (10%tight/typ)}}
^{^Q8s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.42}	^{^2.52}	^{^{Early (loose 15%) button/blinds (10%tight/typ)}}
^{^K7s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.23}	^{^2.73}	^{^{Early (loose 15%) button/blinds (15%tight/typ)}}
^{^KT}	^{^0.91%}	^{^12.23}	^{^2.75}	^{^{Early (loose 15%) button/blinds (15%tight/typ)}}
^⁵⁵	^{^0.45%}	^{^12.15}	^{^0.86}	^{^{All positions (loose) late/blinds (25% tight/typ)}}
^{^JT}	^{^0.91%}	^{^12.13}	^{^2.83}	^{^{Early (loose 15%) button/blinds (10%tight/typ)}}
^{^87s}	^{^0.30%}	^{^12.02}	^{^2.33}	^{^{Early (loose 15%) button/blinds (15%tight/typ)}}
^{^QT}	^{^0.91%}	^{^11.99}	^{^2.75}	^{^{Early (loose 15%) button/blinds (15%tight/typ)}}
^⁴⁴	^{^0.45%}	^{^11.94}	^{^0.67}	^{^{Loose only 25% middle, button or blind}}
^²²	^{^0.45%}	^{^11.93}	^{^0.31}	^{^{Loose only 25% middle, button or blind}}
^³³	^{^0.45%}	^{^11.86}	^{^0.48}	^{^{Loose only 25% middle, button or blind}}

^{^Screen Name}	^{^{Seat Position}}	^{^Cards Dealt}	^{^{Start/End Amount}}	^{^Total Bet}	^{^{Win/Loss Amount}}
^{^bluechip777}	^¹		^{^{$199.00/$199.00}}	^{^$0.00}	^{^$0.00}
^{^poppin}	^²		^{^{$185.50/$185.50}}	^{^$0.00}	^{^$0.00}
^{^killerbee587}	^³		^{^{$93.00/$89.00}}	^{^$4.00}	^{^$-4.00}
^{^jrixey}	^⁴		^{^{$94.25/$88.25}}	^{^$6.00}	^{^$-6.00}
^{^htoner}	^⁵	^{^9 8}	^{^{$45.50/$19.50}}	^{^$26.00}	^{^$-26.00}
^{^{Eddie Torr}}	^⁶		^{^{$88.75/$86.75}}	^{^$2.00}	^{^$-2.00}
^{^TwoDogs}	^⁷	^{^K J}	^{^{$67.95/$41.95}}	^{^$26.00}	^{^$-26.00}
^{^Mike4mike}	^⁸	^{^8 J}	^{^{$280.72/$345.72}}	^{^$26.00}	^{^$65.00}
^{^ellaspapi}	^⁹		^{^{$165.25/$165.25}}	^{^$0.00}	^{^$0.00}
^{^flyhigh}	^¹⁰		^{^{$206.50/$202.50}}	^{^$4.00}	^{^$-4.00}

^{^Player}	^{^Action}	^{^{Action Data}}	^{^Timestamp}
^{^jrixey}	^{^{Set dealer/Bring in spot}}	^⁴	^{^15:44:18}
^{^htoner}	^{^{Ante/Small blind}}	^{^{$ 1.00}}	^{^15:44:18}
^{^{Eddie Torr}}	^{^{Big blind/Bring in}}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:18}
^{^bluechip777}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}		^{^15:44:18}
^{^poppin}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}		^{^15:44:18}
^{^killerbee587}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}		^{^15:44:18}
^{^jrixey}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}		^{^15:44:18}
^{^htoner}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}	^{^9 8}	^{^15:44:18}
^{^{Eddie Torr}}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}		^{^15:44:18}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}	^{^K J}	^{^15:44:18}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}	^{^8 J}	^{^15:44:18}
^{^ellaspapi}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}		^{^15:44:18}
^{^flyhigh}	^{^{Card dealt to a spot}}		^{^15:44:18}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:28}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:29}
^{^ellaspapi}	^{^Fold}	^{^{$ 0.00}}	^{^15:44:29}
^{^flyhigh}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:38}
^{^bluechip777}	^{^Fold}	^{^{$ 0.00}}	^{^15:44:39}
^{^poppin}	^{^Fold}	^{^{$ 0.00}}	^{^15:44:39}
^{^killerbee587}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:41}
^{^jrixey}	^{^Raise}	^{^{$ 4.00}}	^{^15:44:42}
^{^htoner}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 3.00}}	^{^15:44:44}
^{^{Eddie Torr}}	^{^Fold}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:46}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:49}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:50}
^{^flyhigh}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:51}
^{^killerbee587}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:53}
	^{^{Rake amount}}	^{^{$ 1.25}}	^{^15:44:53}
	^{^{Betting round completed}}	^{^{Last active pot = $24.75}}	^{^15:44:53}
	^{^{Card dealt to table}}	^{^K K 9}	^{^15:44:53}
^{^htoner}	^{^Check}		^{^15:44:56}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^Bet}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:44:59}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:45:00}
^{^flyhigh}	^{^Fold}	^{^{$ 0.00}}	^{^15:45:02}
^{^killerbee587}	^{^Fold}	^{^{$ 0.00}}	^{^15:45:02}
^{^jrixey}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:45:04}
^{^htoner}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 2.00}}	^{^15:45:05}
	^{^{Rake amount}}	^{^{$ 0.25}}	^{^15:45:05}
	^{^{Betting round completed}}	^{^{Last active pot = $32.50}}	^{^15:45:05}
	^{^{Card dealt to table}}	^³	^{^15:45:05}
^{^htoner}	^{^Check}		^{^15:45:07}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^Bet}	^{^{$ 4.00}}	^{^15:45:12}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 4.00}}	^{^15:45:13}
^{^jrixey}	^{^Fold}	^{^{$ 0.00}}	^{^15:45:14}
^{^htoner}	^{^Raise}	^{^{$ 8.00}}	^{^15:45:17}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^Raise}	^{^{$ 8.00}}	^{^15:45:19}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 8.00}}	^{^15:45:23}
^{^htoner}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 4.00}}	^{^15:45:25}
	^{^{Rake amount}}	^{^{$ 1.50}}	^{^15:45:25}
	^{^{Betting round completed}}	^{^{Last active pot = $67.00}}	^{^15:45:25}
	^{^{Card dealt to table}}	^⁷	^{^15:45:25}
^{^htoner}	^{^Check}		^{^15:45:27}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^Bet}	^{^{$ 4.00}}	^{^15:45:30}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^Raise}	^{^{$ 8.00}}	^{^15:45:31}
^{^htoner}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 8.00}}	^{^15:45:33}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^Call}	^{^{$ 4.00}}	^{^15:45:35}
	^{^{Betting round completed}}	^{^{Last active pot = $91.00}}	^{^15:45:35}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^Showdown}	^{^{Show card: Flush K J 9 8 7}}	^{^15:45:35}
^{^htoner}	^{^Showdown}	^{^{Muck card}}	^{^15:45:35}
^{^TwoDogs}	^{^Showdown}	^{^{Muck card}}	^{^15:45:35}
^{^Mike4mike}	^{^{Hand result}}	^{^{$ 91.00}}	^{^15:45:35}

^{Poker Room}	^{Bonuses Deducted}	^{Tournament Fees}	^{Rakeback %}	^{Referral bonus}	^{$ per 100 raked (WITH BONUS)}	^Ranking
^{Absolute Poker(200% to $200)}	^No	^No	²⁸⁺	^{$50 after your FRIEND plays 100 hands}	^{28+20+ =48++ +50=98+}	^{1 for money/hand}
^{Bet Direct}	^No	^No
^Betfair	^No	^Yes
^Bodog	^Yes	^No
^{Bugsy’s Club}	^No	^Yes
^Cardroom	^Yes	^No
^{Celeb Poker}	^No	^Yes
^{Classic Poker}	^No	^Yes
^{Doyle’s Room}	^No	^Yes
^{Fortune Poker}	^No	^Yes
^Interpoker	^No	^Yes
^Littlewoods	^No	^Yes
^{Pacific Poker}	^Yes	^No
^Parbet	^Yes	^No
^{Poker Plex}	^No	^Yes
^{Superior Poker}	^Yes	^No
^{TGF Poker}	^No	^Yes
^{Titan Poker}	^Yes	^Yes
^{Total Bet}	^No	^Yes
^{UK Betting}	^No	^Yes
^{Ultimate Bet}	^{25% Deducted}	^No
^{Virgin Pokerbr}	^No	^Yes
^{William Hill}	^No	^Yes

	^{^1st}	^{^2nd}	^{^3rd}
^{^{Make Money as soon as possible}}	^{^{Read this bonus chasing guide first. You can follow it exactly.}}	^{^{If you want to widen your range of hands to make more money, download the odds calculator and follow it’s advice exactly}}	^{^{Go back and read the online guide when you have the time, and want to improve your own game.}}
^{^{Make the most money in the long run playing poker}}	^{^{Read my Ultimate Poker Playing guide}}	^{^{Read the Bonus chasing guide}}	^{^{Start Bonus chasing}}
^{^{Make the most money in the long run with the least amount of work in the long run.}}	^{^{Read the Ultimate Affiliate Guide and any affiliate marketing tips you can find}}	^{^{Follow the affiliate Guide, setup some affiliate sites so your websites providing you automatic wealth}}	^{^{In the meantime, read both the bonus chasing guide and the Ultimate Online Guide.}}

^{^{With Top pair}}		^{^{With Flush Draw}}
^{^{Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Don’t Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}

^{^{With Top pair}}		^{^{With Flushdraw}}
^{^{Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card on river}}	^{^{Bet Non Flush Card on River}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Bet non flush on river}}
^{^{Don’t Bet flush card}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flushcard}}	^{^{Bet flush on river}}	^{^{Don’t bet non flush on river}}